Cyano and Low nutrients

[jsker]

didn't realize it's been "so long". I just checked, they are set up end of April 2020. The Anion seems to be almost all "used". I couldn't find my TDS meter anymore, and just check the inline TDS meter on the filter. I don't really trust that meter enough, but right now that's the only thing I have. It shows water TDS IN = 7-8 , and TDS OUT = 0. I will change the Anion though, seems to be done.

I finally notice after my battles with cyano, that the combination of balancing the nutrients. I noticed and now keep my RO/DI filters fresh my bouts with cyano has gone away. Many have told me in the past to keep my RO/DI filter changed to keep cyano at bay. One other thing I have learned is to not run lose carbon in a RO/DI system. In my case bad bacteria would build up in the carbon filters and also contribute to Cyano and diatom.

That is my story

 

[cyberCoder]

I finally notice after my battles with cyano, that the combination of balancing the nutrients. I noticed and now keep my RO/DI filters fresh my bouts with cyano has gone away. Many have told me in the past to keep my RO/DI filter changed to keep cyano at bay. One other thing I have learned is to not run lose carbon in a RO/DI system. In my case bad bacteria would build up in the carbon filters and also contribute to Cyano and diatom.

That is my story

Does lose carbon mean activated carbon? i have a reactor in the picture, and you are also right ! that i turned it on just a week or two ago. I hadn't used it for almost 2 months after the move. I am going to stop that as well today.

Just to make it more complete LOL, I haven't turned back on the UV light. I don't know if I should actually wash that first since it's been off for almost 3 months now, or even use that.

 

[cyberCoder]

@PBar, @jsker

I added pictures taken just now.

I do have more update and need help again. I tested the water just now, it's 0.5 - 1 Nitrate and 0 Phosphate.

I was going to do a 20% WC, but decided to wait and see what you suggest.

I am attaching pictures just taken from the tank now.

Should I let the tank keep running at like this and add the two new fishes once QT done. And see the rest of the week?

 

[jsker]

Feed, Feed, Feed. Yes you could add a fish or two to have dirty water (higher phosphates)

You good with the active carbon in the reactor since the water is constantly moving through the carbon. It is just went the water is sitting in the carbon filter in your RO/DI that the bad bacteria starts building up and contributes to the cyano.

 

[PBar]

Hello,
Now, I was able to see the video and the photos. Nice tank!
Seems that flow is very adequate... and you can see that the cyano grew behind the the rock in the front, which could be the place with less flow. Nothing much you can do about it, that’s normal...

I think you just need to keep now this routine and it is very likely that it will go away (“nothing good happens fast in a reef tank”. Give two weeks at least).
Feel free to change some water... but I would keep one water change for a week after you add your fishes. Remember that every time that you add something (fish, for instance) the tank needs some time to adapt.

I wouldn’t worry about the test results. As @jsker said, keep feeding your fishes.

Just one remark: I prefer always to increase the number of times that I feed than the quantity.
Meaning that if I see my nutrients going down, I feed one or two times more in a day, instead of dumping more food each time.

 

[PBar]

If you allow me, one extra reminder
The tank is small, so keep the lights off when you add the fishes...

 

[cyberCoder]

If you allow me, one extra reminder
The tank is small, so keep the lights off when you add the fishes...

The fishes are in QT beside the main tank. I tried to block the lights , we don't have enough things to place the QT so it sits too close to the main tank. And I am trying to block the lights.

Oh, another difference, the tank used to be in my room in a basement that's completely dark most of the time. And now it's in a room that has normal day light.

But I found that seems to have done more good than bad to the tank.

I am very tempted to dose both nitrate and phosphate very small amount. But I worry as you said I probably do bad than good .......

Will keep doing this for 2-4 weeks and see.

 

[PBar]

Hello! Maybe I wasn’t clear regarding the lights. Apologies!
You may have light in the quarantine tank without any problem!

My advice is related to the day that you decide to transfer the two fishes from the quarantine to the main tank.

The idea is to turn off the lights of the main tank or introduce the new fishes during the night... just to avoid stress and fight between the fishes.

Regarding the dosing, the risk that you run is to feed the cyano.
It is really tricky indeed

The issue/concern that I have is linked to the accuracy of the tests...
Maybe, you can test it again in few days after increasing the number of times that you feed your fishes and see the outcome...

 

[cyberCoder]

Hello! Maybe I wasn’t clear regarding the lights. Apologies!
You may have light in the quarantine tank without any problem!

My advice is related to the day that you decide to transfer the two fishes from the quarantine to the main tank.

The idea is to turn off the lights of the main tank or introduce the new fishes during the night... just to avoid stress and fight between the fishes.

Regarding the dosing, the risk that you run is to feed the cyano.
It is really tricky indeed

The issue/concern that I have is linked to the accuracy of the tests...
Maybe, you can test it again in few days after increasing the number of times that you feed your fishes and see the outcome...

Love this, i didn't mean i have done it all. I was exactly trying to figure out that detail. It makes total sense.

I have a blue yellowtail blue damsel , and it was introduced into the tank first with Nemo. Both of them still try to bump each other every day, and I still feel because of this blue damsel, i have had difficulty introducing others. Now I have a watchman Goby hides most of the time except feeding time.

I bought a bi-color dottyback, and a 8 line Wrasse. Hopefully they can live together fine.

I have been facing this so thanks for raising my chance keeping them.

Did a water change tonight.

 

[Fishresponse]

What kind of light are you running over the tank?

 

[PBar]

Clear now
I did the suggestion mainly because I saw the damsel in the video... normally they are not nice with the new colleagues.

What you can can do is to remove the damsel (if it is easy), introduce the new fishes and put back again the damsel after a few days.
One method is to turn on the lights in the middle of the night... normally the fishes are a bit dizzy for 30 seconds.
I know, it is not a nice thing to do even with us
Depending on the fish, you can even remove with your own hand.

Good luck!

 

[cyberCoder]

What kind of light are you running over the tank?

It's a very basic light fixture from Amazon ( not specialized for aquarium ) with 4 T5 ATI bulbs. Blue plus and purple plus, i believe, 2 of each.

 

[cyberCoder]

Clear now
I did the suggestion mainly because I saw the damsel in the video... normally they are not nice with the new colleagues.

What you can can do is to remove the damsel (if it is easy), introduce the new fishes and put back again the damsel after a few days.
One method is to turn on the lights in the middle of the night... normally the fishes are a bit dizzy for 30 seconds.
I know, it is not a nice thing to do even with us
Depending on the fish, you can even remove with your own hand.

Good luck!

Did another more complete water test tonight, Alk 9.02 Calcium 440 , both haven't changed much, Nitrate still at 1.0 , Phosphate Hanna checker gave me an error code that typically means 0 .

I am going to try move blue to QT this time. Will keep at this.

 

[cyberCoder]

I have added one fish ( other still in QT ) for about 10 days. I have also fed more, and changed the RODI filter for the carbon one. I definitely notice that the Cyano seems to be gone. However, I have been facing green algae and brown algae and some other thicker long string algae bloom in the tank.

Somehow, it seems that my sump with the Nyos 120 skimmer and the Clarisea fleece filter, and some Marine Pure sphere balls aren't effective?

When I use brush to remove the algae in the display tank, they often show coralline algae.

Do I just let the tank keep running , and keep removing the algae in the display tank to see if better balance would appear?