Cyano ATTACK!!! HELP!!!

[Virtualbasil]

So far it is only on the substrate and cover roughly 1/4 of the substrate.
Water Parameters

1.0225 specific gravity, PH 7.8, Ammonia 0.10 ppm, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 4.0 ppm, all tested with API saltwater kit

Phosphate 0.03 ( tested with Hanna instrument) is this high?

Tank: 29 gallon bio cube with ghost skimmer, bio balls, bag O carbon, bag O GFO. Temperate managed by Apex Jr to be around 77-78

I have tried cutting back the light ( now on 6 hours a day stock lighting), I have added phosban and the bag of carbon and GFO. I have tried vaccuming it out twice but comes back in a few days. I do weekly 5 gallon water changes. I don't know what is causing this its really frustrating.

 

[Tahoe61]

You appear to need more flow, Cyanobacteria prefers low oxygen areas.

What are you feeding and how much?

Are you using a good water source?

FYI the Ghost Skimmer does not perform well.

Why is your Sg so low? If you have corals you really need to bring that value up.

Thanks for providing chemistry though.

 

[Virtualbasil]

I use a 4 stage RO system. I just adjusted my return head so it flows toward the algae. Ya the ghost skimmer sucks but it does get some skim but I hate it. I only have 5 zoas that are doing fine but aren't growing fast.

 

[Virtualbasil]

could my substrate be a problem? its kind of large sized. I heard that traps contaminates in it.

 

[Tahoe61]

No not really, you can manually siphon out the cyano. If you are only using the return pump for flow, then you really should consider adding a power head. It will most likely improve the Cyanobacteria issue.

So you're not introducing food to the tank as all?

 

[bobman]

How old is this tank? Sounds like you are still cycling and cayno can be common in new tanks. Try adding something like microbacter7 or the like.

 

[jeremy]

Do you just have RO or RODI filter for your water?

 

[Tahoe61]

The ammonia value is probably from an API kit. The tank is over a month old, judging from the tank thread.

There are fish present, so you're adding food, the nutrients have to get there some how if your water supply is from an RO/DI unit, so you should test the TDS of your water after it goes through the filter unit. Your phos and nitrates are not that high, phos of .03.

You might be feeding too much but I bet if you invest in a decent power head something in the 400-500 gph range you would see the reduction in cyano growth. You can not go wrong with a Mp10QD in that size of tank, it would make all the difference. Do not bother buying a Nano koralia though, if you eventually want to keep stony corals the nano version is not adequate IME.

 

[Snookin]

29 bio cube:

• Remove all media and just run a small amount of carbon
• Use a filter floss in the overflows and replace every 3-4 days
• Bio Balls GONE
• Weekly 10% water changes
• Use turkey baster to blow rocks every few days
• Lighting source UNKNOWN but needs to be more than 6 hours (Replace bulbs if old)
• Flow is an issue (be more strategic about your pump locations)
• Skimmer isn't needed with quality maintenance
• Sand bed should be shallow and smaller substrate particles

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

If you want to have the cyanobacteria limited by phosphate, you'll need it lower than you have.

The 0.03 ppm phosphate you report is plenty for cyanobacteria, and that's after they'd eaten their fill.

Is the water being forced through the GFO? Or just flowing around the bag?

 

[Bugger]

Coral snow by zeovit is a quick fix just double dose it a couple of times to kill the stuff then scrap/brush it off

 

[Mr E Wrasse]

throw away the bio-balls and treat the tank with chemi-clean... then start using GFO or biopellets