Cyano battle!!

[face]

Is it impossible to beat? IVe tried chemiclean several times it did make a dent but within 3-4 days it is back full force. Held my nutrients at zero for weeks on end, coral were pale and LPS quit opening but cyano just looked great. Finally had to give in and dose nitrate and phosphate or all coral would have died. Tank looks like a flushing toilet with flow and they cyano has no problem even growing right on the wavemakers. Not even sure what other options there are.

 

[brandon429]

Here’s forty pages of us beating it by cleaning reefs no dosers.

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

see how reefs start bad but turn out good when you attack them with tap water> that’s the going trick there


Im not saying that’s the only way am just saying it’s a massive six year work thread way.

 

[lapin]

You dosed chemi-clean: Erythromycin prevents growth of bacteria at low concentrations and kills them outright at higher ones by blocking transfer RNA from attaching to the ribosome. Now your tank has no bacteria that will compete with the strain of cyano you have. Follow Bandon's advice. When done cleaning add some bacteria in a bottle

 

[commanderwho]

have you tried cutting your light hours? Try 3 days of no light can help too. Remember the ocean doesn't have light everyday, your corals will be fine.

 

[Uncle99]

Is it impossible to beat? IVe tried chemiclean several times it did make a dent but within 3-4 days it is back full force. Held my nutrients at zero for weeks on end, coral were pale and LPS quit opening but cyano just looked great. Finally had to give in and dose nitrate and phosphate or all coral would have died. Tank looks like a flushing toilet with flow and they cyano has no problem even growing right on the wavemakers. Not even sure what other options there are.

You have to fix the core problem which fuels it, the cleaner is just a temp reset of the tank. Some believe that Cyano is triggered by running zero nutrients, don’t think anyone knows for sure. Deprive it of white light for 4 days.
There’s a recipe out their using H2O2 treatment to “kill” the Cyano (or as so told) which I just finished two weeks ago. It might interest you. There’s quite a few steps.
I must admit.....it did work for me, to 100% gone...so far, hurt nothing.
Good luck. You’ll beat it.

 

[face]

You have to fix the core problem which fuels it, the cleaner is just a temp reset of the tank. Some believe that Cyano is triggered by running zero nutrients, don’t think anyone knows for sure. Deprive it of white light for 4 days.
There’s a recipe out their using H2O2 treatment to “kill” the Cyano (or as so told) which I just finished two weeks ago. It might interest you. There’s quite a few steps.
I must admit.....it did work for me, to 100% gone...so far, hurt nothing.
Good luck. You’ll beat it.

I tried dumping half a bottle of peroxide in my tank one time when I was rebooting

Here’s forty pages of us beating it by cleaning reefs no dosers.

Official Sand Rinse and Tank Transfer thread

If you are reading this thread to cure a tank invasion from a link I sent you, we do not need to identify your type of invasion here we do not need you to test anything at anytime regarding nitrate, phosphate etc Above all, we do not need to see a microscope slide picture of your invasion at...

www.reef2reef.com

see how reefs start bad but turn out good when you attack them with tap water> that’s the going trick there


Im not saying that’s the only way am just saying it’s a massive six year work thread way.

My tank is bare bottom also. Been set up for 6 years had cyano for 5 of those.

 

[face]

You have to fix the core problem which fuels it, the cleaner is just a temp reset of the tank. Some believe that Cyano is triggered by running zero nutrients, don’t think anyone knows for sure. Deprive it of white light for 4 days.
There’s a recipe out their using H2O2 treatment to “kill” the Cyano (or as so told) which I just finished two weeks ago. It might interest you. There’s quite a few steps.
I must admit.....it did work for me, to 100% gone...so far, hurt nothing.
Good luck. You’ll beat it.

Maybe Ill try this again. Last time I had no effect and kept dosing higher and higher eventually it started bothering the coral and not really affecting the cyano.

 

[face]

have you tried cutting your light hours? Try 3 days of no light can help too. Remember the ocean doesn't have light everyday, your corals will be fine.

Yes but it always comes back within a few hours.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[lelandmarine]

You dosed chemi-clean: Erythromycin prevents growth of bacteria at low concentrations and kills them outright at higher ones by blocking transfer RNA from attaching to the ribosome. Now your tank has no bacteria that will compete with the strain of cyano you have. Follow Bandon's advice. When done cleaning add some bacteria in a bottle

Thats impressive, did you help create the covid 19 vaccination

 

[lelandmarine]

Thats impressive, did you help create the covid 19 vaccination

that was a meant as a compliment

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I also find that trying to lower nutrients to fight cyano is something my corals didnt like either. In the end I tried chemiclean (based on a lot of good things I read on the internet about it) and I was very happy with the results, super easy and completely reef safe.

 

[MattB69]

I just got over a cyano battle. Time will tell if I did it right. I used chemiclean for 2 1/2 days. Removed the cleaner thru my skimmer and then dosed bio spira to up my nitrifying bacteria.

The key I believe is figuring out what the root cause was to begin with. For me I had bottomed out nitrate and phosphate. After dosing both and getting to my desired levels for a couple weeks is when I did the chemiclean and then maintaining those levels. I'm hopeful I don't see it come back.