Cyano on Rock

djbetterly · Jul 19, 2015

What is the best way to battle this? Whether I feed heavy or light it's still there. Phosphates range from .02-.08 depending on when the GFO gets changed.

I run the triton system now so I haven't been doing water changes. I have no algae problems aside from the cyano. Also, I did have the problem prior to starting triton, but figured it would go away.

Is it safe to scrub the rocks in the tank or does that spread it?

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 19, 2015

Manual removal by siphon is a good bet. Just scraping and leaving it in the tank may not be desirable.

Reducing both nutrients and organics can help with cyano. Do you skim?

Eckolancer · Jul 19, 2015

Need to treat the tank red slime remover and then after keep feeding to what fish need.

djbetterly · Jul 19, 2015

I do skim, but I don't use filter socks. In wondering if I shouldn't brush it off and hope the filter sock catches a bunch. I can vacuum it off but it's hard without scraping it first.

I do skim, would it be better to wet skin while doing this?

djbetterly · Jul 19, 2015

I'd like to not treat the tank if possible. It's not out of control, just annoying.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 20, 2015

djbetterly said:
I do skim, but I don't use filter socks. In wondering if I shouldn't brush it off and hope the filter sock catches a bunch. I can vacuum it off but it's hard without scraping it first.

I do skim, would it be better to wet skin while doing this?

Wet skim might be better, as can reducing the phosphate further. Are you dosing any organics?

twilliard · Jul 20, 2015

I would hate to see this become a rant about the triton method so here is my 2 bits.
change your water
Get as many macros growing good and strong in your fuge
When people use triton they automatically think they don't need to change water. Still have to control nutrients.
that's about it!

djbetterly · Jul 20, 2015

Ha! Yes I agree! I will say that since using triton I've had much better coral growth and polyp extension than I've ever had.

I would love to see you do a write up some time on your views of the triton method. Not necessarily the tests they run, as I know you covered that, but on the elements, the theory behind water changes and their sump/fuge setup recommendations.

Right now I'm only reading about it from the developers and the people using it, but not from anyone who actually has a scientific background and not associated with the triton company.

Anyways, back to the fuge setup. I am currently running a fuge but only with chaeto. I had dragons breath but it disappeared. My nitrates are very low so I suspect there may not have been enough nutrients to sustain the dragons breath.

beaslbob · Jul 20, 2015

If it's not too bad do nothing.

Otherwise kill the lights and stop feeding the fish. (or feed once/week).

After the cyano dies off, then resume with less lighting and feeding so the good stuff thrives but the cyano stays away. And adjust lighting and feeding accordingly.

my .02

djbetterly · Jul 20, 2015

Isn't that going to really tick off my SPS though?

beaslbob · Jul 20, 2015

djbetterly said:
Isn't that going to really **** off my SPS though?

probably.

But a week of darkness will not bother the sps as much as the cyano.

You could also cut back on light and feeding and see if the cyano dies off and the sps still thrives.

I think the "shock" of a totally blackout is more effective.

and then the lights come on there will be all the nitrates/phosphates to feed the sps. Whereas now to some extent the cyano is getting those.

my .02

djbetterly · Jul 20, 2015

Interesting....do you agree that chemically treating should be a last resort? The cyano is not horrible, I'm wondering if I don't just scrub the rocks and do a few intermittent water changes between scrubbing.

twilliard · Jul 20, 2015

Add more macros to your fuge.
Change water.
do a PH test and let sit capped. If it turns yellow under 6 hours you have a hefty bacterial load

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 20, 2015

djbetterly said:
Interesting....do you agree that chemically treating should be a last resort? The cyano is not horrible, I'm wondering if I don't just scrub the rocks and do a few intermittent water changes between scrubbing.

I''ve used it twice in 20 years as a last resort. It worked, but unless you also correct the source of available nutrients, it may come back.

Now I just live with some cyano.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 20, 2015

twilliard said:
Add more macros to your fuge.
Change water.
do a PH test and let sit capped. If it turns yellow under 6 hours you have a hefty bacterial load

What would someone do with that info?

twilliard · Jul 20, 2015

Good afternoon randy!
Well I have been doing this method for several years now.
the bio load in the test will result in co2 being produced which in turn drops the PH over a given amount of time.
cyano is a bacteria right?
this is just a simple thing I do to understand where my bacterial load stands without a microscope count.
take a PH test on new saltwater and you will wait weeks if at all for the reagent color to change
And what would a person do with this result (under 6 hours is what I found) change water

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jul 20, 2015

What if the bacteria in the water are not cyano?

djbetterly · Jul 20, 2015

Sounds similar to this test

http://www.fishchannel.com/saltwater-aquariums/aquarium-frontiers/testing-for-bacteria.aspx

twilliard · Jul 20, 2015

Yes but what I do is what every aquarist does.. check PH but I don't think many understand that co2 has a direct connection to the test.
awesome article!
True Randy no one may ever know which bacteria are present in the water column without in depth bio research.
but what I have found is that an over abundance of bacteria will stress coral or grow unwanted outbreaks.
was just trying to show him an easy way to understand biology

djbetterly · Jul 20, 2015

So is there a way to determine what is too much bacteria? How do you determine a time frame? Forgive me for the stupid questions, just trying to get a better idea. Any articles on this method?