cyano problem

[dustponds10]

Well I have been battling the dreaded cyano for a little while it isnt all that bad but it really bugs me. I am wondering how to get rid of it with out adding chemicals, my bulbs are 3 months old, I do frequent water changes and I run a ASM G-1 skimmer. My tank is a 75 gallon with a 30 gallon sump under it and I dont run carbon or any phosguard. Flow in the tank is 3 koralia #3's if you have any info that might help please let me know. Thanks Dustin

 

[MikeB]

Check yopur nitrates, Water Changes, and stop feeding so much... ALSO FLOW FLOW FLOW

 

[pakora]

Ive had cyano in my previous tank. Keep the lights off for a few days. Thats what I did and it helped. I also added a chemical to kill the cyano but you said you dont want to do that. Good luck.:wink:

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

What type of water are you using?

Tap, RODI, LFS, etc..?

PS. Welcome to R2R!

 

[H@rry]

Turn off all the lights for 3 days. Only light that enters the tank is room light. On the 4th day turn the actinics on. Day 5 go back to the normal cycle. You may have to wait a 7 - 10 days and do it again. Works for me, almost too simple.

 

[reef-lover]

Increase your flow.

 

[dustponds10]

I would love to increase my flow but I already have 2450 gallons per hour flow in the tank with out including the in pump that comes from the sump. It blows my sand bed like you wouldnt believe any ways. I will check my nitrates and I am going to start doing larger water changes. Oh and thanks for the welcome and all the other helpful hints I am going to try all until I find one that works. Dustin

 

[Silveradositn]

Chemeclean Works But Dont Know You Coral Load And Would Be Carful Useing It

 

[sleeper]

I would suggest a phosphate binder and some chemeclean. I haven't seen a speck of it since treatment and all my zoa's, softies, and small amount of LPS didn't mind abit.

 

[newly salted]

will the phosphate binder or chemclean bother sps? What binder did you use?

 

[mltascp]

I agree with Harry suggestions we just did that with our 120 and happy cyano gone. I don't like the chemicals because we have had problems with them in the past.

 

[H@rry]

I think increasing flow is a somewhat overrated cure for cyano. I have cyano in one of my overflow boxes. That's the most flow of anywhere in the tank.

 

[mltascp]

We tried the increased flow method and add another Koralia directed at the sand. It only created a crater in our sand with cyano in it.

 

[reefboy]

this usually do to water source for top off and water changes so fix that and your issues will usually disappear chemicals are quick fixes and doesn't fix actual problem and like any bacteria you can create a resistant strain then your problems can really start just my OP.

 

[dustponds10]

I use RO water that has a 6ppm. I am going to swap out the resin and see if that helps. I will have to waiste a bunch of water but if it gets rid of the cyano I will do it. also I am going to do a 15 gallon water change. Just an FYI about my system, I hae 3 koralia #3's in a 75 gallon that is roughly2500 gallons of movement per hour. That should be plenty I would think. Dont you all? I also checked my nitrates and they are right at 0. So I have no real idea what is going on.

 

[AZDesertRat]

You say you use RO water then you talk about a TDS of 6 andchanging resin.
Sounds like you actually use RO/DI water and not RO? If so the TDS of 6 may be a contributing factor to your problem.
Always change DI resin when you first start to see anything other than 0 TDS on a consistent basis. If you prolong changing the resin you are dumping contaminants back into your treated water. DI resins begin to release weakly ionized substances even before they are exhausted. Some of these weakly ionized things are all forms of ammonia (nitrites, nitrates etc) phosphates and silicates among others. Don't put it off. Using spent resin can actually be worse than no DI at all as it often releases the captured substances in huge quantities much higher than the levels were in the tap water to begin with.

Monitor your TDS levels often using a clean calibrated TDS meter, handhelds are much better than inlines, and never depend on most color changing resins to be very accurate.

 

[Brad Syphus]

Do you have a manufacturer or name of the resins you suggest useing AZDesertRat?
I just read your introduction and know that you are the resident expert in this area.
I usually try to change my resin about every 3 months, thats useing I would guess 3 gallons aday auto topoff, but it sounds like I need to change it more often. BTW. Welcome, I'm fairly new here also and I'm finding myself on this site more and more.

 

[Hypertek99]

I would leave the lights off for 3 days and do water changes. Add a baggie of GFO while your at it.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I have used resin from every major supplier and vendor and have settled on Spectrapure's SilicaBuster for general use. If you have two DI canisters their MaxCap makes a great pre-resin if you will and makes any other resin last about 3x or more longer than any other resin I have found. They custom blend every ounce of resin they sell so they are engineered for specific uses.
My resin life went from 150 gallons per DI cartridge to over 830 gallons per DI cartridge with no other changes. Costs more up front but long term is a big savings. I am in no way connected to them but their products work well for me so you may see me mentioning them often. I would imagine there are lots of members here who use their products already like the LiterMeter and MaxCap RO/DI systems and can chime in.

 

[dustponds10]

I never thought of that I guess I do use RO/di water and I am off to change the resin right away. I guess Ill do a water change when I get the newer water in the bin. Thanks for your input and for the advice. Where do you get that resin from? I mean website wise. Dustin