cyano solutions?

reefmadness

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Will hydrogen peroxide help with the removal/eradication of cyano? I know blacking out the tank for two or three days also works, but I am looking for other methods to rid myself of this cyano bloom. It has lasted for over three weeks. My parameters are all spot on, and I have been doing weekly 5 gallon water changes, along with changing my bulbs, and changing out my carbon and gfo.
 
Not sure about the peroxide, but Boyd's Chemi-clean seems to work when I've used it and I have not noticed any ill effects while using it per the directions. Take off your skimmer cup, and remove GFO/ carbon... also I usually add a couple air stones just to make sure theres enough air in the water.
 
Will hydrogen peroxide help with the removal/eradication of cyano? I know blacking out the tank for two or three days also works, but I am looking for other methods to rid myself of this cyano bloom. It has lasted for over three weeks. My parameters are all spot on, and I have been doing weekly 5 gallon water changes, along with changing my bulbs, and changing out my carbon and gfo.
It will increase your ORP therefoe I wod say yes.
 
You have a bacterial imbalance in the tank. Too many nutrients coming from somewhere. So the idea is to fight the bacteria with bacteria. If you dose some good nitrifying bacteria, it will eventually build up and out compete the cyano. Microbe-Lift 'Special Blend' is what you want. You can find it at most petco stores or online.

Typed from my phone because I have nothing better to do.
 
I used Dr Tim's waste away. Didn't have to turn off skimmer. As a side note I also use it when curing dry/ live rock in another container.
I do 1 day of black out a week regularly.

How is your flow in your tank?
How much do you feed?
How long are your lights on? ( decrease no matter the answer until problem is gone)
Are you manually removing as much as possible?


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The flow in my tank is pretty good, I have a koralia 4 on one side, a koralia 1050 evo on the other, and a mag 7 as my return pump. I feed one cube of PE mysis and PE cyclopezee every other day, my lights are only on for 7 hours a day, and I do manually remove as much as possible every time I do a water change. I will look into the additives you guys have mentioned. Thanks for the input!
 
Hey Chris,

How long do you keep your skimmer off when dosing special blend?...or do you even turn it off?
 
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I run a gfo reactor scrape it off and do 10% daily water changes! Oh yeah I cut my lights down to 4 hours day. This method worked fro me on a minor out break.
 
I turned it off for 4-5 hours the first 4 doses(after seeing results), then just left it on after that.
 
What has worked for me is ozone, and syphone the stuff out, if you have a sump with macroalgae clean it off because it will kill the algae and you can have more problems.
 
Also to add I would avoid using any " Reef Safe" medications. Providio is ok, sopose it has bacterial, but also has liquid carbons that will increase your cyano problems.
 
I got a better light for my fuge. It left my display and is in my fuge. I'm happy with that :)
 
Its well documented in lake management that if phosphates are elevated relative to nitrate the aquatic environment will tend to produce cyano as opposed to algae. The answer, if phosphate reduction is proving difficult, is to increase nitrate. This sounds counter-intuitive but its based on the fact that algae needs nitrate in a ratio of 16:1 to phosphate. Cyano on the other hand can thrive with a much lower nitrate to phosphate ratio. Cyano is able to cheat and directly fix its own nitrate thereby out-competing algae which your tank crew could eat. Carbon dosing and or bacteria dosing might do a little good, (probably not) by depleting some phosphate but cannot really correct the problem because the ratio of nitrate to phosphate will still remain too low. A good range to shoot for would be nitrates at 2ppm and phosphate at 0.12 - (notice the 16:1 ratio) - Establish the ratio - siphon off the cyano that you have and you should be good.

As an aside - 2ppm nitrate and 0.12 phosphate will provide optimal levels for growth - if your looking for color reduce these levels by half - but keep the ratio.
 
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To answer the original question - I've tried H2O2 dosing (1ml per 10g) and did not find it effective against established cyano. Neither was UV.

Lights out - cyano will definitely retreat - lights-on it will come right back.
Flow? I've seen cyano grow in low flow and high flow areas.
Carbon dosing - I have not tried - but for the reasons above, I don't see it being effective.
Dosing bacteria? I guess it would depend on the strain of bacteria and if it could out-compete the cyano, If there isn't enough nitrate to feed the bacteria - it too will end up feeding the cyano.
Turf scrubber could work, but it too would work better if the nitrate to phosphate imbalance is corrected.
 
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Organic Carbon dosing is basically providing a source of carbon for the bacterias that they can fix.. I prefer dosing Vinegar since I belief that Acetic Acid acts as a ready source for bacterias to feed on.. Well small patches of cyanos,in low flow areas are not that bad,better to live with it.However I had cyanos and my CUCs were dying,Randy told me to dose carbon..I started dosing it,within a week my cyanos disappeared and there were numerous baby turbo snails adhered to the tank's wall.
 
What is the best and easiest way to dose organic carbons? I also tested water the other day and found that my PH was at 7.7. My LFS owner said that could one of the major causes for my continued cyano issues. I have been slowing raising my ph over the past few days, so hopefully that will help solve my problem. I am also going to increase my gfo and carbon in my reactor to help strip any contaminants that could be exacerbating The issue. Any other helpful hints out there as to what could be causing my problem?
 

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