Cyano

Trentondrummer33 · Apr 5, 2013

Any recommendations on defeating cyano? I don't have a po4 test kit but but ammonia, Trites and trates are all 0 salinity is .24 running a 29 hqi with 30lbs of live rock did I miss anything? Lol

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NanaReefer · Apr 5, 2013

Siphon as much as possible. Increase flow to affected areas. Run a phosphate sponge. Kent's, works great.

Siphon out as much as possible. If possible, lights out 3-4 days.

ChemiClean.

Aznyoyoboy57 · Apr 6, 2013

i just have my Florida Ceriths snails do all the work. maybe try to get some of those before trying to dose anything.

Nam · Apr 6, 2013

do some water change it help too.

Dan1789 · Apr 6, 2013

I've been battling cyano a few times now. Things I did to combat it: added a ph behind my rocks blowing across the sand bed and glass, changed my GFO material (if you're not already running GFO, start), siphoned the slime off sand bed, water change, and added Florida Ceriths and dwarf ceriths. If this does not work, the try Chemi clean but read the packaging carefully.

Downbeach · Apr 6, 2013

When was the last time you changed your lamps? Many times the shift in light spectrum due to aging lamps, along with other factor's that will cause cyano to appear.

Good read here:

BlueGrAlgae

tchan · Apr 6, 2013

Get a BioPellet reactor, any size should be fine. It cures all kind of algae, including cyano.

Trentondrummer33 · Apr 6, 2013

Dumb question, what is gfo? Also I do a water change once a week. And siphon out as much as possible and it just comes back, I've cut my lighting periods. Not sure if I can do the 3 days of no light since I have a clam

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NanaReefer · Apr 6, 2013

Granular Ferric Oxide

Cyanobacteria is not an algae but like the name states, a bacteria. One that thrives on high phosphates. It is a phylum of bacteria that obtain their energy through photosynthesis. By removing its food/energy source you'll remove the infection.
I understand that most people do not like using chemicals to help their tanks. Understandable! I too was worried about it at first. However IMO and IME I've found that once used properly ChemiClean is one of the best/fastest ways to rid the tank of this bacteria.
You could also try running a small canister filter, filled with Kent's Phosphate Sponge. This works great for removing high Po4, less expensive then a pellet reactor and safer.

mike007 · Apr 6, 2013

You must test all your water parameters to make sure everything is in check. Increase water movement,siphon it out and keep doing water changes and it will go away. Chemi clean does work well and it is fast but if you don't get everything in check it will come back.

kyle1284 · Apr 6, 2013

tchan said:
Get a BioPellet reactor, any size should be fine. It cures all kind of algae, including cyano.

DO NOT DO THIS! BIOBELLETS feed bacteria and cyano is bacteria!!!

Trentondrummer33 · Apr 6, 2013

I have a 29 gal hqi so adding a canister is near impossible I will my with my flow and try and get it on the effected area. I use ceramic rings carbon and foam for my filtration. I'm one of those guys who would much rather color than growth in my tank. So my light schedule goes like this at 12 my actinic lights come on, 6 my halide goes on and it's GOes off at 10 my actinic shuts off at 12. All my parameters are in check as I stated in my first post, I do not have a p04 kit and my Lfs is out of em as well :'( lol

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mike007 · Apr 6, 2013

If this a reef you only need good cured live rock and a skimmer. No cannister,no foam or anything that can trap debris which will cause nitrate problems. In order to have any algae problems it is caused by excess nutirents. Main cause is overfeeding wheter it be coral foods or fish foods. Be stingy and keep up the water changes.

Trentondrummer33 · Apr 6, 2013

Thanks guys ill keep ya posted ill remove my foam tonigjt

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NanaReefer · Apr 6, 2013

mike007 said:
If this a reef you only need good cured live rock and a skimmer. No cannister,no foam or anything that can trap debris which will cause nitrate problems. In order to have any algae problems it is caused by excess nutirents. Main cause is overfeeding wheter it be coral foods or fish foods. Be stingy and keep up the water changes.

Again-Cyanobacteria is NOT an algae! It is a bacteria, big difference. Treatment is different also.

NanaReefer · Apr 6, 2013

Trentondrummer33 said:
I have a 29 gal hqi so adding a canister is near impossible I will my with my flow and try and get it on the effected area. I use ceramic rings carbon and foam for my filtration. I'm one of those guys who would much rather color than growth in my tank. So my light schedule goes like this at 12 my actinic lights come on, 6 my halide goes on and it's GOes off at 10 my actinic shuts off at 12. All my parameters are in check as I stated in my first post, I do not have a p04 kit and my Lfs is out of em as well :'( lol

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So your tank is running with 12hrs of total light time? Try knocking it down to 8hrs.
You could also put some Kent's Phosphate Sponge in a mesh bag and add it to your 1st or 2nd chamber. That would work great! I used it that way on my 8g bio-cube. You don't need much and just change it out every 2 weeks.
Another question for you. Where do you get your water from? Is it RO/DI?

Trentondrummer33 · Apr 7, 2013

It's rodi I make it myself, Tds is very low though I'm prob due up for a membrane

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NanaReefer · Apr 7, 2013

Trentondrummer33 said:
It's rodi I make it myself, Tds is very low though I'm prob due up for a membrane

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New membrane wouldn't hurt. With our smaller tanks any PO4 can cause us issues. Smaller water volume is less forgiving

Seriously though. Give the Kent's a try. It's an easy inexpensive fix that works. You know what else works good is PuriGen. That comes in its own bag and is rechargeable, also inexpensive. These are things I've been using on my tank for almost 4yrs. Great for nano tanks!