Cyanobacteria
- Thread starter junito16
- Start date
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you might hate this. But leave it in there. Siphon some out if you like. but its burning out the exess po for you. thats what the sump is for.
I would recommend some and diverse more macros. theyll compete for nutrients with the cyano.
I honestly just did this with my sumpless 30. hated watching the cyano grow each week, but I siphoned it once every week @ wc time, and now no more cyano. it ate its self out of a job.
I would recommend some and diverse more macros. theyll compete for nutrients with the cyano.
I honestly just did this with my sumpless 30. hated watching the cyano grow each week, but I siphoned it once every week @ wc time, and now no more cyano. it ate its self out of a job.
hows the DT BTW?
thats the thing. you actually have cyano in the dt, thats nature, cyano is everywhere. It only blooms(spreads) when there are exess nutrients.
but because your sump is working so well the nutrients and cyano are confined to the sump where the exess nutrient are being removed by the macros and the cyano in this case as well.
I only asked about your dt to make sure its not a system wide problem.
If you have exess nutrients in a tank, you get algae and cyano blooms. Then I would recomend a refugium with macros to remove the exess nutrients from the system.
So if you want to further remove nutrients and get rid of cyano because its unsightly, add more diverse macros, to out compete the cyano for nutrients.
starve them out.
Thats what the fuge does, starves out cyano and nuisance algae from the dt.
Agreed! I have loads on the glass in my sump - especially in the fuge where the flow is steady. Meanwhile, my DT tank is crystal clear!
Add a couple of Cerith snails in there - they'll help manage it and munch on detritus, but not harm the Copepods!
My sump would make you throw up.
@junito16 . Be more concerned by the bubble algae. it sends spores, goes where it wants does what it wants.. a scrub out of the tank and dip in ro or old tank water with hydrogen peroxide 10 w to 1 peroxide, will get rid of it. rinse well in old tank water. wont affect the cycle. reef safe.
Lenny_S
Well-Known Member
I've seen a lot of refugiums with cyano in them, yet the DT is clean. Personally I think it's only partly nutrients. My theory is that the lighting that is beneficial for macros, which is higher in the red spectrum, is also ideal for cyano.
hmm. green trees dont use green,they reflect it, red cyano uses....?
BTW lenny, luv your RUGF sump hows that going
Lenny_S
Well-Known Member
Hey, thanks... It's going great, thank you for asking.
Regarding the spectrum... Chlorophyll b heavily prefers the 640nm-660nm range which is the red spectrum. Chlorophyll a prefers the 430nm-450nm range which is your indigo/blue spectrum.
Both types of chlorophyll use both those spectrums, it's just more efficient for them to use one over the other.
Corals do better under the actinic lighting because the spectrum matches the chlorophyll a in their zooxanthellae better. And macros do better with like 6500k color temperature because it is higher in red spectrum and matches their chlorophyll b better.
Since old reef bulbs are a known to spur cyano outbreaks because of the spectrum shift from blue to red, and cyano is a photosynthetic bacteria. I hypothesize that the refugium lighting is contributing to cyano isolated to that area, while the DT in the same system does not because of its blue spectrum dominated lighting.
ahhh but I can mix 6500k in many ways.(color meter boy here) with only R G & B. And we halven't even gotten in to Y & O.
and old bulbs go green when they die too, much more than r o & y by nature of thier chemistry.
Theres def a correlation its feeding off the blue cuz everything does, for sure and very very likely the G Y &O but,
i still think its ok in the fuge and the basic nutrient movement from DT to Fuge works best.
in reefing many forget theres not a lot of natural spikes esp the ones we look for and want when describing kelvin.
So when you really mix colors its analog, so look at a full spectrum and then tilt it left and right, as the colors slosh back and forth thats a truer representation of color mixing from an anaolg source. so 15k in reefing compaired to the sun it has little to do with an actual color temp. adding our preferred blue spike is a kelvin lie. (this is also why color balancing a camera to a reef is hard, some cameras cant dont take the spike in the A/D limiter)
Id wager as well the cyano bloom when my lights died may be more anecdotal than fact. like zoas reaching. yea if you have exess nutrients and your bulb goes green yellow, cyano bloom.
In any case, as above I really did burn the cyano and po out of my rock and then sand by letting it bloom cleaning it(like trimming chato) and adding higher light levels, I also added a small hob fuge with diverse macros and lots of corals. Old used MH radion 2ok bulb. the rock bloomed first as expected, clean tank, the sand bloomed second as expected and is now finishing. PO removal all done with light and photosynthetic plants and corals. no gfo.
so im of the opinion its more nutrient based than light. pretty amazing coral growth in that time too.
so wanna talk about my lime green cyano in the dt. its cool. ill send ya some
thanks Lenny I see you around a lot. you know your stuff.
and old bulbs go green when they die too, much more than r o & y by nature of thier chemistry.
Theres def a correlation its feeding off the blue cuz everything does, for sure and very very likely the G Y &O but,
i still think its ok in the fuge and the basic nutrient movement from DT to Fuge works best.
in reefing many forget theres not a lot of natural spikes esp the ones we look for and want when describing kelvin.
So when you really mix colors its analog, so look at a full spectrum and then tilt it left and right, as the colors slosh back and forth thats a truer representation of color mixing from an anaolg source. so 15k in reefing compaired to the sun it has little to do with an actual color temp. adding our preferred blue spike is a kelvin lie. (this is also why color balancing a camera to a reef is hard, some cameras cant dont take the spike in the A/D limiter)
Id wager as well the cyano bloom when my lights died may be more anecdotal than fact. like zoas reaching. yea if you have exess nutrients and your bulb goes green yellow, cyano bloom.
In any case, as above I really did burn the cyano and po out of my rock and then sand by letting it bloom cleaning it(like trimming chato) and adding higher light levels, I also added a small hob fuge with diverse macros and lots of corals. Old used MH radion 2ok bulb. the rock bloomed first as expected, clean tank, the sand bloomed second as expected and is now finishing. PO removal all done with light and photosynthetic plants and corals. no gfo.
so im of the opinion its more nutrient based than light. pretty amazing coral growth in that time too.
so wanna talk about my lime green cyano in the dt. its cool. ill send ya some
thanks Lenny I see you around a lot. you know your stuff.
right?
and now more to experiment with!
I like to prove myself wrong sometimes.
It saves my wife the trouble
