Cycle complete?

fernalfer

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Ok so i just got done cycling my 120 tank. For about a week i had ammonia to 0 within 12 hrs. dosed to 2 ppm. But nitrites remained high the whole time. Just 3 days ago i wake up and test and BOOM nitrites 0 nitrates 50.

So after ammonia-0 nitrites-0 and nitrates-50 I dosed my tank up to 2ppm again to see how long it took for both ammonia and nitrites to hit 0. It took 8 hrs. Should i assume i'm cycled and move ahead with a 50% water change to get the nitrates down?

Also i'm in absolutely no rush to stock the tank, so whats next?

I had 120 lbs. of Marco Dry Rock in Brute tubs almost 3 months prior to putting in the tank to get rid of the leaching phosphates, but because my Rock is so clean i have 0 algae or diatoms. But i also ran my entire cycle lights out.

Should i turn lights on now with nothing in tank to start that algae process?

Do i keep feeding tank ammonia to keep bacteria thriving?

No need to add CUC with 0 algae i'm assuming.

Will be setting up QT tanks shortly as well.
 
fish-tank-nitrogen-cycle.gif

image via rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:

Intermission:

You are not done yet! You may have cultivated a nice crop of groovy bacteria and your water may be clean as can be, but, there are still 3 more stages to the cycle process before you can start your stocking. Take this time to consume all of which you have already done. The next 3 stages often put fear into the eyes of many newcomers. These are perfectly natural and are partially a representation of how the earth became an oxygen rich planet. Before there was any oxygen breathing organisms, there was the evolution of Cyanobacteria. This is a photosynthetic bacteria that creates Oxygen as a byproduct. There are several colors, but the commonality is that it is like a slime. The Cyanobacteria spread over a vast area and the atmosphere became oxygen rich like we breath today, without the smog. Cyanobacteria is responsible for life as we know it. The same applies to the reef. Now that your mind has been blown you may move on to the next stage of the cycle.

Pre-Algae Cycle:

LTIM95.jpg


If your lights have not been setup yet do so now. Set your timers as you would for a reef tank. Anywhere from 6-12 hours is a good amount of time. Set the photoperiod to be on during the hours you will be viewing the tank most. If you work 2nd shift it is OK to have the lights come on after you get home from work or when you wake up in the morning. As long as there is not a supply of sunlight near the tank you wont have a long term battle with algae.

Stage 4: Diatoms

diatoms_03_zpsfbc5643d.jpg

diatom algae image via reef2reef member Steven R

Diatoms are a brown dusty life form that consumes silicates. There is no avoiding Diatoms during their initial bloom. Leave it be. Let it go crazy. Before you know it, the brown stuff will soon start to change colors. Generally red, this is the start of the next stage!

Stage 5: Cyanobacteria

01-24-07Cyano_1.jpg

cyanobacteria image via reef2reef member murfman

Cyanobacteria will now begin its course. Again you will let the slime just do its thing. This will be the nastiest of the stages. Cyanobacteria can gross some people out, especially if they catch a whiff of it. It is best to leave it be. It will start to clear up eventually. The clearing of the slime makes way for yet another stage.

Stage 6: Green/Brown algae

DSC00232.jpg

hair algae image via reef2reef member johnmaloney

If you have made it this far, give yourself a round of applause. This is the final “battle” of the cycle process. When the slime is gone you will see your first signs of plant life, algae! Green Hair algae is usually the type that you see, but some other types have been known to occur. This stuff will grow like mad. At this point you are ready to move on to the next phase.

The cycle is a long process in terms of hobbies. Find yourself a good rhythm for testing. Get yourself in the habit of staring for long periods of time. Practice observation by watching as life forms start taking foot in the aquarium. You will see things from dust sized particles to worms that reach a foot long. There really is no telling what could form in your tank. This is a great time to prepare for the animals you will get. Knowing how to describe things and being able to correctly test the water will help you get the information you need. Your parameters are perfect now. You are now ready to move on to the next section. You should actually study the next section during your cycle, since you will have quite a bit of time on your hands with all that waiting.

Cycles can be artificially induced, but it is always preferred to use as little foreign liquids as possible. Another thing you can do during the cycle is preparing your clean up crew and first fish, but be prepared to keep them quarantined for a prolonged time since the cycle is unpredictable.
 
love your post. Very informative, but how many people do you believe that actually mature their tanks this way. I bet very few.
 
I battled all of those with the exception of hair algae (knock on wood.) Took me a month and a half to fully cycle which I was fine with. Seems as if you're ready for the algae phase, since it looks like you've had your ammonia and nitrite ascend and decline. Just out of curiosity are you doing a mixed reef, lps, or sps tank?
 
Feeding your bac after establishment is not necessary, we don't have final say in their lives unless we add antibiotics. If we add non sterilized water to a container in a non sterilized environment then the bacteria have the say and all we've done is alter time of the cycle, the amount of surface area we expect to coat in bacteria sets how long we need to wait.

Regarding your start time, the specific time you can begin reefing is when dry rocks have been submerged 30~ days or more, and can pass an ammonia digestion test a couple times which yours does. Nitrite and nitrate do not matter in closing down a cycle (we can fully cycle off ammonia alone and 30 days/digestion test) but the time frame and ammonia behavior sure does.

If we have cycled a tank using sand and rock and covered them in and out with bacteria, then we created excessive and abundant filtration surface area relative to the typical starting bio load we will use, well under 2ppm. You should begin reefing a week ago
 
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to see why we don't have to factor nitrite, Google any cycling chart and see if a single one exists where after 30 days nitrite is at critical levels relative to free ammonia.

We choose start dates off merely ammonia and 30+ days submerged and digest test when using dry substrate starts. For live rocks we often totally skip the cycle and only test for leaking ammonia, not a digestion test, so this is two fully opposite types of cycling. All cycling reference threads needs to mention the distinction between live and dry rock cycling. The invaders we want to farm on purpose and cross fingers are independent of the target bacteria we hope to coat on surfaces.
 
I battled all of those with the exception of hair algae (knock on wood.) Took me a month and a half to fully cycle which I was fine with. Seems as if you're ready for the algae phase, since it looks like you've had your ammonia and nitrite ascend and decline. Just out of curiosity are you doing a mixed reef, lps, or sps tank?


Yes will be doing a mixed reef. As of right now i have been able to take my ammonia and nitrite from 2.5 ppm down to 0 in 12 hrs. Nitrate is about 50 ppm. Thats why i was asking what my next step should be. I'm in no hurry to stock with fish but gathering my next step should be turning lights on and get this algae stage going. Correct?


Also during my cycle process i did not have my skimmer running. Should i get that going now as well?
 
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I didn't start off with a skimmer so I wouldn't have a great opinion about it but from my take on it, there isn't anything for it to skim so I feel like its just a waster of electricity. Sure turn on the lights and set it to the way you want your tank to run just be prepare for the tank to go through the craziest stages. When I saw cyano I got it out of the tank I never let it just sit.
 
there is one thing id add to that cycling paste above, the words -take action- in bold before each invasion descriptive. where it says diatoms are coming, the take action portion would be to remove them. The prediction that they are coming would be accurate. For the part where cyano comes, the take action portion would say "though they come, you didn't pay or invest for your tank to look like this, ever, so siphon"
 
Yes will be doing a mixed reef. As of right now i have been able to take my ammonia and nitrite from 2.5 ppm down to 0 in 12 hrs. Nitrate is about 50 ppm. Thats why i was asking what my next step should be. I'm in no hurry to stock with fish but gathering my next step should be turning lights on and get this algae stage going. Correct?

After your water change I would start the lights. You'll have to do a few water changes in order to get it under 10 ppm unless you want to do a really big 80% water change to bring it to 10 ppm in one go.

Also during my cycle process i did not have my skimmer running. Should i get that going now as well?

I would fire that up as well. There probably won't be much to skim but it will at least get the skimmer primed up. If anything isn't working properly, now would be a good time to find out.
 

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