Cycle finished? What should I do now?

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Aliu

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Hi Guys,

It's been a while since I posted. But I've been nonstop reading about reef aquariums since I started my tank. I tested my water today and it seems to have finally settled but I'm pretty curious as to what the next step should be.

My parameters are:
SG: 1.024
Temp: 80F
NH3: 0ppm
NO2: 0ppm
NO3: 5ppm

I remember reading that cycling is done after the ammonia and nitrite have reached 0 and nitrates are a bit up. I just want to get people's opinions on what I should do next?

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Please see attached for my current tank.
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1447740082.843279.jpg
 
Put you a clean up crew in there. Looks good. Was that coralline already on the live rock before you added it?
 
You'll be wanting/needing another power head for extra flow. Your return will not be enough.
Do you have a quality test kit for Calc, ALK, Mag, PH? Those are a must have! By posting those numbers it will help us to better help you. [emoji2]
 
Your next step is to add a CUC. hermits and snails. Wait a while (like a week or 2), and keep testing, doing water changes then if everything stays at 0 then you can add a fish.
 
I'd say don't go crazy on the clean up crew because unless you feed the tank they won't have much to clean up. Since it's cycled feel free to add a hardy fish, if a clown or two is in your tank plan nows a great time to add them. Just my .02
 
just to add to what underwaterdan is saying... add your CUC and make sure you feed them. You could even feed the tank like you would if fish were present. that way your building up your bacteria levels to the point that in a couple weeks you wont experience any spikes when you do add your fish. I wouldn't add fish to your small tank right now, espeically 2. You could, but it's safer to keep building up your bacteria levels for a bit first.
 
Ditto to What Mel and UWD said. Also it's time to really start targeting the major elements that are critical in reefing. Ca, Alk, and Mg......these of course will need reliable and accurate test kits. There are many out there so make sure you you do some good research before buying a good kit. Personally I like the RedSea and Salifert kits.

When you get the kit it's time to monitor those above elements and keep them stable. When they are stable and CONSISTENT then you can start adding corals assuming that is your end goal[emoji6]. Numbers to shoot for are Ca 450, Mg 1350, and Alk 7-11 dKh. Good luck and keep us posted and the questions coming!
 
Those all sound like good advice. Thanks guys. I looked up the CA, ALK, and MG test kits and I think I'm going to go with the Redsea one.

One other question I have is, I don't seem to have a lot of algae at all. Maybe 1 or 2 CUC members should do the trick. Would that be okay? Also what would you guys recommend for fish food? Pellets? Flakes? Etc.

Thanks!
 
Another question is, should I do a water change soon? I just bought a rodi system and it should be coming in by tomorrow.
 
Those all sound like good advice. Thanks guys. I looked up the CA, ALK, and MG test kits and I think I'm going to go with the Redsea one.

One other question I have is, I don't seem to have a lot of algae at all. Maybe 1 or 2 CUC members should do the trick. Would that be okay? Also what would you guys recommend for fish food? Pellets? Flakes? Etc.

Thanks!

get 2 or 3 hermits and a snail or two. If you feed them they will be fine. and like i said, it will build up your bacteria levels to sustain a fish.
I feed frozen food. I'm not a fan of flake or pellets.
 
Looks nice! What size tank is it?

Some things you will learn is personal preference, I actually like to feed a sinking pellet to my tank. As soon as they start to sink my snails come right up out of the sand bead, it's so cool. Like something out of sy-fy.

What kind of corals do you want?
 
Personally I wouldn't be adding any livestock until you find out what your big 3 parameters are. Familiarize yourself with using the kit regularly, thus gaining a better understanding.
As for WC, ATM there's really no need for one. Wait until you are able to test your makeup water. Again familiarizing yourself with levels. Are you familiar with what are acceptable levels and not?
 
Personally I wouldn't be adding any livestock until you find out what your big 3 parameters are. Familiarize yourself with using the kit regularly, thus gaining a better understanding.
As for WC, ATM there's really no need for one. Wait until you are able to test your makeup water. Again familiarizing yourself with levels. Are you familiar with what are acceptable levels and not?

While it's a good idea to get familiar with the Mag, Alk, and calcium tests and get used to testing regularly... those have no baring on snails and fish. Those are mainly for coral's benefit and arn't necessary at this point.
 
To clarify mel's post, Alkalinity at this early stage is still very important, coral or no, because it stabilizes pH, which absolutely has a bearing on fish.

I think the reason mel is saying alkalinity isn't very important yet is because there's nothing in the tank yet that will deplete it. So, assuming you're using a quality salt mix, the alk will take care of itself until you start adding coral. Nevertheless, alkalinity is a critical parameter for fish.

I also notice you have a lot of coralline algae (purple stuff) on your live rock, that stuff eats up magnesium in my experience. Which means your magnesium and therefore calcium levels could be rather out of whack by the time you're ready for coral, so while it may not be important yet, I would definitely have the tools to know what it is BEFORE you add coral. As we all know, calcium is very important for reef-building corals. But what is less appreciated is how the appropriate magnesium levels are necessary in order for that calcium to be able to be used by the coral. I'm hazy on the actual chemistry, I just know that it's difficult to keep your calcium where it should be if you don't also have magnesium where it should be, and in your case magnesium could deplete faster than anticipated due to the amount of coralline algae.

Personally I would go ahead and add a hearty fish now, with or without a clean-up crew. Much of my clean up crew died because my tank was too clean, and it wasn't nearly as clean as yours is. To me it makes more sense to add a CUC after there is something for them to clean up.

As far as food is concerned, variety is important. Most experienced folks seem to offer a variety. I find it really depends on what fish you get. Some food is better for surface feeders, others for bottom feeders, some is better for herbivores (algae eaters), other is better for carnivores. Flake can be a good all-rounder, but it won't take long before you have a fish that is quirky is some way, and more specialization food-wise will be helpful. For example, I have a goby that never ventures near the surface, so if I only fed flake he would starve because the flake floats long enough that it all gets eaten before any of it sinks to his level. Frozen is the next most popular, and there's a lot of variety to be found. Mysis shrimp is a very popular form of frozen food. That's what I use the most, but it's definitely not the only one.
 
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To clarify mel's post, Alkalinity at this early stage is still very important, coral or no, because it stabilizes pH, which absolutely has a bearing on fish.

I think the reason mel is saying alkalinity isn't very important yet is because there's nothing in the tank yet that will deplete it. So, assuming you're using a quality salt mix, the alk will take care of itself until you start adding coral. Nevertheless, alkalinity is a critical parameter for fish.

Yup. That's what i meant. lol You made some very good points about the rest as well. :)
 
Another question is, should I do a water change soon? I just bought a rodi system and it should be coming in by tomorrow.
What size is your tank? A waterchange isn't going to hurt much if it's a small percentage. Change too much and, depending on your tank size, you'll restart the cycle but I don't see why you'd need it unless you used some pretty dirty rock. I'd say bring some water to the lfs have them test it and pick up a few clean up guys and a fish or two. Feed sparingly for the first week or two and you should be all set. However that's the aggressive approach.... which if you're impatient is probably what you are looking for...
 
What size is your tank? A waterchange isn't going to hurt much if it's a small percentage. Change too much and, depending on your tank size, you'll restart the cycle but I don't see why you'd need it unless you used some pretty dirty rock. I'd say bring some water to the lfs have them test it and pick up a few clean up guys and a fish or two. Feed sparingly for the first week or two and you should be all set. However that's the aggressive approach.... which if you're impatient is probably what you are looking for...
My tank is a 14 gallon Biocube. Guess I'll just top off for now and do a water change sometime in the future. I'll bring some water my lfs to check.
To clarify mel's post, Alkalinity at this early stage is still very important, coral or no, because it stabilizes pH, which absolutely has a bearing on fish.

I think the reason mel is saying alkalinity isn't very important yet is because there's nothing in the tank yet that will deplete it. So, assuming you're using a quality salt mix, the alk will take care of itself until you start adding coral. Nevertheless, alkalinity is a critical parameter for fish.

I also notice you have a lot of coralline algae (purple stuff) on your live rock, that stuff eats up magnesium in my experience. Which means your magnesium and therefore calcium levels could be rather out of whack by the time you're ready for coral, so while it may not be important yet, I would definitely have the tools to know what it is BEFORE you add coral. As we all know, calcium is very important for reef-building corals. But what is less appreciated is how the appropriate magnesium levels are necessary in order for that calcium to be able to be used by the coral. I'm hazy on the actual chemistry, I just know that it's difficult to keep your calcium where it should be if you don't also have magnesium where it should be, and in your case magnesium could deplete faster than anticipated due to the amount of coralline algae.

Personally I would go ahead and add a hearty fish now, with or without a clean-up crew. Much of my clean up crew died because my tank was too clean, and it wasn't nearly as clean as yours is. To me it makes more sense to add a CUC after there is something for them to clean up.

As far as food is concerned, variety is important. Most experienced folks seem to offer a variety. I find it really depends on what fish you get. Some food is better for surface feeders, others for bottom feeders, some is better for herbivores (algae eaters), other is better for carnivores. Flake can be a good all-rounder, but it won't take long before you have a fish that is quirky is some way, and more specialization food-wise will be helpful. For example, I have a goby that never ventures near the surface, so if I only fed flake he would starve because the flake floats long enough that it all gets eaten before any of it sinks to his level. Frozen is the next most popular, and there's a lot of variety to be found. Mysis shrimp is a very popular form of frozen food. That's what I use the most, but it's definitely not the only one.
Thanks for the advice Ocean! I'll go to my lfs tomorrow to buy a "hearty" fish. I'm thinking about just getting 2 snails and 2 hermits for diversity in the CUC. I don't want to add too many too fast anyways. Afraid of something going awry and need to start all over again. I'll also do some more research in regards to cal and mg. I gave my lfs a call a while ago and they confirmed that that is coralline algae on the live rock.

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
While it's a good idea to get familiar with the Mag, Alk, and calcium tests and get used to testing regularly... those have no baring on snails and fish. Those are mainly for coral's benefit and arn't necessary at this point.

I beg to differ. If more new to the hobby reefers had a greater understanding of the relationship between Calc, ALK, Mag before they started introducing livestock there wouldn't be the casualties that we see.
FYI-Snails as with all inverts extract calcium from the water to create their shells. Therefore knowing your levels can only benefit your livestock.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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