Cycle of 40gb starts today. Need help

[Richard the Reefer]

OK so me and the lady are starting our cycle tonight. I have the rocks water and sand in now. I have ammonia chloride from Dr. Tims and fritzyme salt water nitrifying bacteria. The big bottle.

Should I run my powerheads? 2 Sicca voyager 2's 800gph and a marine something 250gph?

No lights will be on. No fish. No life other than 1 chunk of Live rock. But once it cycles I want to transfer my scape in from my 13 gallon. Will that make my new tank cycle again? Or would that be fine?

I will say I'm not a fan of the new formula from Tim for the ammonia. 4 drops per gallon
160 drops!!!

Other than testing regularly... What am I missing?

 

[Crabs McJones]

OK so me and the lady are starting our cycle tonight. I have the rocks water and sand in now. I have ammonia chloride from Dr. Tims and fritzyme salt water nitrifying bacteria. The big bottle.

Should I run my powerheads? 2 Sicca voyager 2's 800gph and a marine something 250gph?

No lights will be on. No fish. No life other than 1 chunk of Live rock. But once it cycles I want to transfer my scape in from my 13 gallon. Will that make my new tank cycle again? Or would that be fine?

I will say I'm not a fan of the new formula from Tim for the ammonia. 4 drops per gallon
160 drops!!!

Other than testing regularly... What am I missing?

Yes you'll want tour powerheads running as long as the tank is cycled and the rock from your other tank is cycled you shouldn't get another mini cycle.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

Yes you'll want tour powerheads running as long as the tank is cycled and the rock from your other tank is cycled you shouldn't get another mini cycle.

Is my glass separating?

 

[Richard the Reefer]

There are no bubbles under silicone, this is where the panes are attached. All 4 corners do this...

 

[Crabs McJones]

Is my glass separating?

My 40 breeder has this as well. Nothing to he alarmed out. Another user on here commented on it as well and said he spoke right to aqueon that said it was normal part of the manufacturing. I've had 2 40 breeder over the last 3 years now with no issues

 

[Richard the Reefer]

My 40 breeder has this as well. Nothing to he alarmed out. Another user on here commented on it as well and said he spoke right to aqueon that said it was normal part of the manufacturing. I've had 2 40 breeder over the last 3 years now with no issues

Than you Mr. Crabs for the comment! Ive been watching it and the situation hasn't escalated. I was freaking out for a bit, 40 gallons is quite a bit of water. Including the electrical that I have set up. I went ahead and put in the ammonium chloride and fritzyme900 turbo start. Reading ammonia at 4ppm 3 hours After dosing. Ill test daily. Once again man thank you for the reply, feeling more at ease lol

 

[Breadman03]

At 20 drops/ml, it would probably be easier to just squirt out 8ml, or just a little less than 2 tsp.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

At 20 drops/ml, it would probably be easier to just squirt out 8ml, or just a little less than 2 tsp.

A little late, like preggo its in there lol. Double dose of the fritz should handle it. If not I can do small water changes until it's at 2ppm and dose the fritz again, but a smaller amount. I gotta keep in mind if the bacteria doesn't have a food source it dies, and ammonia would never drop. All science for the coming weeks. I hate this part. I have trouble knowing when the real cycle has ended for sure....

 

[Onedeadbob]

I may be wrong but I believe the food source for the nitrifying bacteria is the ammonia. One type converts ammonia to nitrite and another converts nitrite to nitrate. When ammonia and nitrite levels spike / zero out, then the cycle is complete. If you still have ammonia in the tank, the cycle is not complete.

 

[VR28man]

I used Dr tim’s for my nitrifying bacteria cycle. Yes, all those drops are a nuisance, but necessary to get it going. At the same time as long as you’re roughly in the ballpark, you’re fine as far as number of drops .

I think you definitely want all the rocks and sand in there when it starts cycling. Otherwise, the bacteria won’t grow on the rock.

A few other tips. All IMHO:

- Follow the instructions exactly. This includes adding several furher rounds of ammonia.

- I assume you have both nitrate and nitrite kits? I did not take a nitrite kit, thinking that nitrate was enough. However, I have learned that the nitrate also track nitrite, so you want to be sure your nitrates at 0 also.

- All the books and websites talk about the nitrifying bacteria cycle. They do not talk about the algae cycle. There is a cycle of diatoms, cyanobacteria, green algae, and coraline algae. ( I may have reversed cyano and green algae). It takes 1-2 Months for this to work with fully seated liverock. With dry rock come it’ll take even longer – I am told three months. If you do not do this, there won’t be proper bacteria to process much of the algae, supposedly. This would lead to the potential for algae spikes.

- There is also a denitrification cycle, where the nitrate is eaten way by the nitrifying bacteria deep in the rocks. Or other media, assuming you have those. This is also a process that will take 2 to 3 months - wait for nitrates to approach 0 naturally.

- I would only add a small sized cleanup crew, after the nitrifying cycle is done. I would not add any fish, or anything else, until both nitrates are gone, and coralline algae is growing well.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

I used Dr tim’s for my nitrifying bacteria cycle. Yes, all those drops are a nuisance, but necessary to get it going. At the same time as long as you’re roughly in the ballpark, you’re fine as far as number of drops .

I think you definitely want all the rocks and sand in there when it starts cycling. Otherwise, the bacteria won’t grow on the rock.

A few other tips. All IMHO:

- Follow the instructions exactly. This includes adding several furher rounds of ammonia.

- I assume you have both nitrate and nitrite kits? I did not take a nitrite kit, thinking that nitrate was enough. However, I have learned that the nitrate also track nitrite, so you want to be sure your nitrates at 0 also.

- All the books and websites talk about the nitrifying bacteria cycle. They do not talk about the algae cycle. There is a cycle of diatoms, cyanobacteria, green algae, and coraline algae. ( I may have reversed cyano and green algae). It takes 1-2 Months for this to work with fully seated liverock. With dry rock come it’ll take even longer – I am told three months. If you do not do this, there won’t be proper bacteria to process much of the algae, supposedly. This would lead to the potential for algae spikes.

- There is also a denitrification cycle, where the nitrate is eaten way by the nitrifying bacteria deep in the rocks. Or other media, assuming you have those. This is also a process that will take 2 to 3 months - wait for nitrates to approach 0 naturally.

- I would only add a small sized cleanup crew, after the nitrifying cycle is done. I would not add any fish, or anything else, until both nitrates are gone, and coralline algae is growing well.

Once the cycle is over and the algae bloom starts and the nitrites and ammonia are zero the 11 hermits and 1 emerald will go in. the clowns will go in once ammonia nitrite and nitrate show zero. Ill have to check out the adding more drops aspect.

I was informed by the LFS to get it up to 5ppm and pet the nitrifyers so their work and onne all 3 levels are zero I'm good. I dont know if I trust that.

Thank you for the input VR28man

 

[Richard the Reefer]

I need a new phone!

 

[K. Steven]

Once the cycle is over and the algae bloom starts and the nitrites and ammonia are zero the 11 hermits and 1 emerald will go in. the clowns will go in once ammonia nitrite and nitrate show zero. Ill have to check out the adding more drops aspect.

I was informed by the LFS to get it up to 5ppm and pet the nitrifyers so their work and onne all 3 levels are zero I'm good. I dont know if I trust that.

Thank you for the input VR28man

I'd be hesitant to add that many herbivores that quickly. They will most likely starve with very little food in the tank. Slowly add CUC as algae grows and slowly ramp up your photoperiod and light intensity over several weeks to keep algae to a minimum.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

I'd be hesitant to add that many herbivores that quickly. They will most likely starve with very little food in the tank. Slowly add CUC as algae grows and slowly ramp up your photoperiod and light intensity over several weeks to keep algae to a minimum.

I was anticipating a huge algea bloom like my last cycle... Ill do some research as the days pass as to what I should and shouldnt do day by day!

 

[VR28man]

Ill have to check out the adding more drops aspect.

You're welcome!

What Dr. Tim means in his instructions is taht you add, say, 150 drops of ammonia at first, wait until it's all nitrate (i.e. ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10, 20, whatever) THEN add much less (I think around 1/5th), wait until it's all nitrate again, and then do this cycle 1-3 more times. You now have a nitrifying filter.

By this time you should have enough nitrates accumulated to start the algae cycle, and for denitrfying bacteria to take up deep in your rock. Again, wait for 2-3 months (more with dry rock), until coralline starts growing very well.

Good luck! Please post when you're done cycling, and tag me.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

You're welcome!

What Dr. Tim means in his instructions is taht you add, say, 150 drops of ammonia at first, wait until it's all nitrate (i.e. ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10, 20, whatever) THEN add much less (I think around 1/5th), wait until it's all nitrate again, and then do this cycle 1-3 more times. You now have a nitrifying filter.

By this time you should have enough nitrates accumulated to start the algae cycle, and for denitrfying bacteria to take up deep in your rock. Again, wait for 2-3 months (more with dry rock), until coralline starts growing very well.

Good luck! Please post when you're done cycling, and tag me.

His directions I read are as follows.

The Process:

• Day 1 – dose ammonia to 2 ppm ammonia-nitrogen [NH3-N] using our ammonium chloride (1 drop per gallon [After Nov 2016 when using DrTim’s ammonium chloride use 4 drops per gallon]) [NOTE: do not expect your test kit to exactly read 2 ppm and it is not critical to get exactly 2 ppm. The key is to not add too much ammonia]. If using DrTim’s Aquatics One & Only Live Nitrifying bacteria add it now (turn skimmer, UV and ozone off and remove filter socks for 48 hours).
• Day 2 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 3 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add more ammonia: four drops of our ammonium chloride per gallon (check the label).
• Days 4 & 5 – Measure ammonia and nitrite.
• Day 6 – If ammonia and nitrite are below 1 ppm add 2 ppm ammonia. Four drops of our ammonium chloride per gallon. [NOTE: since you have added the One & Only your ammonia kit will not read 2 ppm and DO NOT continue adding ammonia trying to get to 2 ppm – just add 2 ppm ammonia (4 drops per gallon of our ammonium chloride) and carry-on.
• Days 7 & 8 – Measure ammonia and nitrite. On the first measurement day (Day 2, 4, 5, 7 or 8) that BOTHammonia and nitrite are both below 0.5 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) your tank is close to being cycled.
• Now start to measure ammonia and nitrite every day.
• When BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N), add another 2 ppm ammonia.
• Continue to measure every day. When you can add 2 ppm ammonia and BOTH ammonia and nitrite are below 0.2 ppm (NH3-N or NO2-N) the next day your tank is cycled – congrats! You’re done!
• Do a partial water change and add some fish.

Tips and Troubleshooting:

• IMPORTANT – Do not let the ammonia OR nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm.
• NOTE – As of November 2016 DrTim’s changed their ammonium chloride solution and you use 4 drops per gallon instead of 1 drop per gallon. Read the label on the bottle you have and follow the directions on the bottle.
• If either ammonia or nitrite concentration get above 5 ppm, do water changes to lower the concentration.
• Do not let the pH drop below 7. If it does, do a partial water change to bring the pH back up.
• Do not add ammonia removers to bind the ammonia – overdosing with these products will just increase the cycling time.
• You do not have to add ammonia everyday – the bacteria do not have to be fed every day. Adding ammonia everyday will results in a sky-high nitrite reading and slow the cycling process.
• Is your tank bare-bottom? – if your tank does not have substrate (gravel or crushed coral) on the bottom this is called a bare-bottom tank and they take longer to cycle because there is not very much substrate for the bacteria to adhere to. If you are setting-up a quarantine tank and do not want to use a traditional substrate consider adding some inert glass rock or marbles or some other non-calcium-based media to the tank bottom. This will help cycle the tank faster.

Need more information about Fishless Cycling? You can find it in the Guide below and you can also download a day by day, step by step Recipe:

 

[Richard the Reefer]

and now I'm not sure on my api because I am reading stuff about the nitrate and nitrite tests not being accurate since the same test liquid is in both tests or something. Sheesh. Should have just did a shrimp!

 

[K. Steven]

and now I'm not sure on my api because I am reading stuff about the nitrate and nitrite tests not being accurate since the same test liquid is in both tests or something. Sheesh. Should have just did a shrimp!

That's what I did for both my 40B. A shrimp on some fishing line and a bottle of BioSpira.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

That's what I did for both my 40B. A shrimp on some fishing line and a bottle of BioSpira.

Well I already started so I may as well do my best to get it right. I dont like quitting. Just no fun in it.

 

[Richard the Reefer]

Just tested the ammonia and I have to give credit to the Fritzyme! Dropped it from 5-6ppm to 2.5 in a day! Tomorrow I'll check again and if below two I'll dose again!