Cycle question

anthonyjmorale

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I'm using the shrimp method. I have had ammonia over 2ppm for 8 days and nitrite at 1ppm for the last 4 days. I took the shrimp out when the nitrite went up to 1ppm. I'm I on the right track. Should I do a water change or wait?
 
Have you noticed any diatoms?
 
I'm using the shrimp method. I have had ammonia over 2ppm for 8 days and nitrite at 1ppm for the last 4 days. I took the shrimp out when the nitrite went up to 1ppm. I'm I on the right track. Should I do a water change or wait?
Wait until cycle is complete.
 
I'm using the shrimp method. I have had ammonia over 2ppm for 8 days and nitrite at 1ppm for the last 4 days. I took the shrimp out when the nitrite went up to 1ppm. I'm I on the right track. Should I do a water change or wait?
fish-tank-nitrogen-cycle.gif

image via rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
 
fish-tank-nitrogen-cycle.gif

image via rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
This says as soon as ammonia drops you will have high nitrites. I have both at the same time
 
No. The rock he has may not even require cycling at all per the linked thread, if it's already full of bacteria.

A tank of just dry sand can be brought to full cycle using the digestion tests mentioned, or even a tank of red bricks. The requirement is only active surface area, something that isn't antibacterial, water, and time. We adjust how long it takes by what we add or don't add. The digestion test, or as the thread shows clearly visual benthic ID from live rock, is how you know when to actually start. Nitrite isn't factored at any step in today's upgraded cycle practice. It did used to be factored in the past, or still can if the molecule matters to a tester.

A person can take a cup of distilled water, no nutrients, a cup of dry pebbles from the middle of the street, and set them in a windowsill for five months topping off as needed, adding nothing beyond water, and it will cycle to a degree ability to oxidize free ammonia in the cup. Time is the only variable we control.

How did nitrifiers get in? Standard contamination during the fill or from adding any item not autoclaved/sterilized. Post facto contamination from your fingernails working in the cup, the gnat that landed in the cup first month, skin cells wafting in, nitrifers are everywhere moving between bodies of water in many ways. they are in the dirt under our fingernails, too many pathways to count. Regular aerobic bacteria ride the flotsam shooting out of your air vents
Circles around your home, lands in the open cup. Accumulating over time...all this, slowly.

Cyano, mold and fungi may happen into the tank and bloom then die, the air we breathe is kinda dirty.
How did the ammonia get in, I didn't add any?
-deamination of proteins from all contaminations mentioned above, collectively. It's just incredibly slow if we don't boost.
 
Last edited:
Yep but for your case it's simple


White rock is one set of actions


Purple rock is opposite. It's ready no cycle


If you have a mix/blend of the two, you don't spike ammonia or it harms the living rock part, the animals you paid extra for

To cycle a blended tank you err on the side of safety for the live rock portion since the goal is to preserve, not kill, items you paid extra for regarding the live rock portion.


One group of rocks gets the raw ammonia, one doesn't, based on living animals we can clearly see on the rock to know it was live.
 
let see your rocks, pic


That doesn't mean it's correct to have those measures. I could get my ten year old reef to read that too by certain alterations, we simply have to know if you have group a or b or blended rocks from that thread I posted. The nitrites do not factor at all, in any cycle per my thread I realize opinions vary there. I linked some rather strong proofs~

Even before pics it's all consistently predictable. If you have no cured purple live rock, all that ammonia from die off is just fine. Add some bottle bac to boost

If there's any live rock, we should change some things. Also from thread no API ammonia results can be used for cycling accurately. We should deal only in non API measures and pics of the rock.
 
This says as soon as ammonia drops you will have high nitrites. I have both at the same time
Ammonia stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite!
 
Please try not to rush this, you know mother nature will take care of this, most important thing in this hobby is patience, cycling can take up to a couple of weeks!;)
 
let see your rocks, pic


That doesn't mean it's correct to have those measures. I could get my ten year old reef to read that too by certain alterations, we simply have to know if you have group a or b or blended rocks from that thread I posted. The nitrites do not factor at all, in any cycle per my thread I realize opinions vary there. I linked some rather strong proofs~

Even before pics it's all consistently predictable. If you have no cured purple live rock, all that ammonia from die off is just fine. Add some bottle bac to boost

If there's any live rock, we should change some things. Also from thread no API ammonia results can be used for cycling accurately. We should deal only in non API measures and pics of the rock.
Not home I can get pic tomorrow. I have the Red Sea marine test kit.
 
Please try not to rush this, you know mother nature will take care of this, most important thing in this hobby is patience, cycling can take up to a couple of weeks!;)
I'm really not trying to rush it. Just thought I would ask if it is normal to see high ammonia and nitrites at the same time.
 

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