Soo i set up a 55 gal tank with dry rock and dry sand with two CaribSea cave rocks.. put in fritz turbo start and cycle started and finished in a month or so. Put in a medium hermit and 3 small snails toward the end of the cycle. Now A week later i just tested my water again to double make sure it was good and now my ammonia is 1-2 ppm but nitrates and nitrites are 0.. is it trying to go for a second cycle or what now
Cycle question
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MaxxuM
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Typically, you should be ready to put life in your aquarium in 3-7 days, not 4 weeks. These bacteria products supercharge the process, but if you let them go too long they may begin to starve as nutrients diminish. There should always be a ramping up of nutrients in the tank to allow the population of bacteria to grow to levels that will support fish.
ichthyoid
Active Member
I don’t see that you have any fish yet.
So,
When you added the TurnoStart, did you add any source of nitrogen, like ammonium chloride or hydroxide?
The bacteria require nutrients, including nitrogen.
So,
When you added the TurnoStart, did you add any source of nitrogen, like ammonium chloride or hydroxide?
The bacteria require nutrients, including nitrogen.
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ichthyoid
Active Member
Here’s an article on the premise behind what’s called ‘fishless cycling’-
en.m.wikipedia.org
Fishless cycling - Wikipedia
ichthyoid
Active Member
Here’s one of the sources of ammonium you can use to be successful doing a fishless cycle.
It’s one of several ways to cycle an aquarium and happens to also be my preferred method.
Please don’t let anyone talk you into using dead fish or shrimp. There’s a good chance you’ll end up with a healthy population of pathogenic bacteria, as well.
It’s one of several ways to cycle an aquarium and happens to also be my preferred method.
Please don’t let anyone talk you into using dead fish or shrimp. There’s a good chance you’ll end up with a healthy population of pathogenic bacteria, as well.
ichthyoid
Active Member
I would add some ammonium chloride & test for ammonia daily, until it drops.
The bacteria are there, some will have died, but many will go dormant. They just need some ammonium to wake them up.
There are 2 steps in the cycle-
1- ammonium is converted into nitrite
2-nitrite is converted in nitrate
One step is much slower than the other.
Nitrate is the least toxic form of nitrogen, so is what we are trying to accomplish.
You will know when the cycle has completed, by when the nitrate level begins to rise.
The bacteria are there, some will have died, but many will go dormant. They just need some ammonium to wake them up.
There are 2 steps in the cycle-
1- ammonium is converted into nitrite
2-nitrite is converted in nitrate
One step is much slower than the other.
Nitrate is the least toxic form of nitrogen, so is what we are trying to accomplish.
You will know when the cycle has completed, by when the nitrate level begins to rise.
MaxxuM
Active Member
I'd go with @Pistondog. Buy a bottle of Seachem Stability and add 1/4 the recommended dose for your sized tank to be entirely safe. Or Prime if you really want to be 100% covered. Adding more ammonia at 1-2ppm will likely spike ammonia if no new bacteria is added.
ichthyoid
Active Member
Looking back at your first post, I see your ammonia is at 1-2 ppm?
Assuming that test is accurate, you are likely already in the process re-cycling.
I see your tank is 55 gal. I guess your ‘ghost feeding’ was the source of ammonium?
I question whether a hermit & 3 small snails could add that?
Assuming that test is accurate, you are likely already in the process re-cycling.
I see your tank is 55 gal. I guess your ‘ghost feeding’ was the source of ammonium?
I question whether a hermit & 3 small snails could add that?
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BeltedCoyote
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Are the API tests liquid based? I’m wondering if you are having the same issue I did when I was cycling my 40b. Turns out some of the liquid tests aren’t super accurate when they get down to the smaller measurements. So basically, I used biospire and dr.tims ammonia and waited ten days, testing every day and by the end the test was still coming back saying there was ammonia. I took a Tupperware of tank water to my LFS and my buddy there tested it with the testing strips they use (dunk them for a few seconds, wait a few seconds and read) which showed there actually was not any ammonia. Incidentally since then I’ve switched to using the same test strips.
I would still probably add another bottle of bacteria and then go with the liquid ammonia route, but I also think you may have what I had going on.
I would still probably add another bottle of bacteria and then go with the liquid ammonia route, but I also think you may have what I had going on.
ichthyoid
Active Member
Fwiw,
I don’t trust API, too many stories like yours.
Invest in some like Salifert or Red Sea test kits, there are others too.
Also, Hannah optical checkers, while a little more, are good for alkalinity & phosphate & covenient.
I don’t trust API, too many stories like yours.
Invest in some like Salifert or Red Sea test kits, there are others too.
Also, Hannah optical checkers, while a little more, are good for alkalinity & phosphate & covenient.
Pistondog
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Once the tank has cycled, we basically ignore ammonia and check nitrate.
So be accurate with ammonia test, but frugal.
Someone else please correct if my assumptions are not correct.
Maybe get a cheap fish, just in case☠
