I would input two pinches of ground up fish food=high surface area carbon and don't look back, everything will be fed well
Remove the dead shrimp if you can. If not, it's ok that's large dilution
Rotting shrimp is low surface area slow carbon. Powder food is perfect here to lock and go/ proceed
you don't have to register on a test kit the rise and fall of any parameter to be cycled. the entire point of updated cycling science is replacing non digital test kits in cycling, because in one thread they're misreading
and in another thread they're the sole decision basis on when to take action in a tank, we had to replace them
reefers project their own trust onto the kits, but they ranged too wildly for any use. that thread above is contact time counting, number of days underwater
*notice a cycling chart's axis is the same, one is a timed wait the other axis is the approximate resulting parameter. a cycling chart is more accurate for ammonia control than a non digital test kit
ammonia drops / has basic control if feed and inoculation is in place/ by day ten and that's not even using massive boosting like you did with fritz
***known wait time supersedes what any non digtal test kit says, rule of updated cycling science. those bacteria were well fed during this lead up.
now you get to begin filtration planning, all the heavy food those fish command needs throughput right into a filter, not stored in a bottom sandbed like we do in reef tanks. recommend barebottom, or if sandbed maintained, cleaned with much effort every month/lots of work will be required. trying to make a 300+ gallon tank de-eutrophic is a pain, don't play catchup play ahead of the curve is my advise. a benefit of updated cycling science is knowing a terminable date for the cycle so that we can move onto fish disease and other planning preps for the tank. you used the fastest bacteria in reefing, two gallons of it.
the way a digital ammonia meter would help you (seneye) isnt by showing a rise and fall in ammonia. it would help by showing no rise in ammonia when you add bioload, because the cycle is already done. if it wasnt cycled the ammonia would spike and not go down, on a seneye. if it spiked and never went down on an api, that would mean absolutely nothing. I have threads of that happening in months old and stocked reef tanks, with no addition of ammonia to cause the rise (misreads)
you dont actually need a digital ammonia meter, the point of updated cycling science is to make those unneeded
but if you buy one they're handy to proof statements made about timing that's for sure.
