Cycling an Aquarium

[vetteguy53081]

On the other hand....

3 frozen cubes, (3g each) = roughly 10g.
Estimate 90% water weight and pretend the rest is protein.
1g protein = 0.16g (160mg) Nitrogen

In 225 gallons (900L) gives 160mg/900L =
0.18mg/L N.
So we're talking ~0.2ppm total ammonia per day. After heterotrophs get done eating their fill, you might not even detect that on a test kit.

Very good computation
Many we see with food will :

 

[Lasse]

My calculation

1 (dry weight) * 0. 07 (PE have crude protein of 69,9 % dry weight) * 0.16 (average N content i proteins 16 %) = 0.11 g N a day. Make that during 21 days - it means around 2,1 gr NH3/NH4 - N into this aquarium. Biomass/waste in mineralisation processes of cold blooded animals are around 20%. Assume bacteria have nearly the same effectiveness as fishes. This means that around 1.7 g NH3/NH4-N ( 2,2 g NH3(NH4) will end up in the aquarium

When I read the post I thought that the aquarium was 90 gallon (360 L)=> around 6 mg/L NH3/NH4. - hence my warning - but even if it is 900 it will give a high reading of around 2 mg/L NH3/NH4 in the end

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Island Goby]

On the other hand....

3 frozen cubes, (3g each) = roughly 10g.
Estimate 90% water weight and pretend the rest is protein.
1g protein = 0.16g (160mg) Nitrogen

In 225 gallons (900L) gives 160mg/900L =
0.18mg/L N.
So we're talking ~0.2ppm total ammonia per day. After heterotrophs get done eating their fill, you might not even detect that on a test kit.

Thank you for a much more clear picture of the why and what it is I am seeing here...tomorrow is day 21 - the bacterial bloom is still present but as I say not as dense...am I ok to ride the bloom out? or should I be taking any other action?
Much appreciation for your time

 

[Island Goby]

My calculation

1 (dry weight) * 0. 07 (PE have crude protein of 69,9 % dry weight) * 0.16 (average N content i proteins 16 %) = 0.11 g N a day. Make that during 21 days - it means around 2,1 gr NH3/NH4 - N into this aquarium. Biomass/waste in mineralisation processes of cold blooded animals are around 20%. Assume bacteria have nearly the same effectiveness as fishes. This means that around 1.7 g NH3/NH4-N ( 2,2 g NH3(NH4) will end up in the aquarium

When I read the post I thought that the aquarium was 90 gallon (360 L)=> around 6 mg/L NH3/NH4. - hence my warning - but even if it is 900 it will give a high reading of around 2 mg/L NH3/NH4 in the end

Sincerely Lasse

Thanks Lasse...sorry for any confusion on the tank size - appreciate your time to assist

 

[taricha]

Thank you for a much more clear picture of the why and what it is I am seeing here...tomorrow is day 21 - the bacterial bloom is still present but as I say not as dense...am I ok to ride the bloom out? or should I be taking any other action?
Much appreciation for your time

Lasse's right that your food input is likely driving the bloom. Let the bloom ride out, ensure aeration.
If you don't see ammonia drop, or NO2 / NO3 increase, it's likely because the couple of ppm total ammonia that was added, spread over multiple weeks - hasn't really been enough to see the nitrification effect. Maybe just assimilated into biomass.
Since this thread is "cycling an aquarium" I'll say I like to see enough ammonia that I can watch ammonia decrease and detect NO2/NO3 increase. Your feeding isn't giving that so far. I'd add some ammonia drops personally.

If you want to keep feeding natural foods, maybe add some scavengers (hermits etc ) to eat it, so you don't have to just wait for slow decomposition.

 

[Island Goby]

Lasse's right that your food input is likely driving the bloom. Let the bloom ride out, ensure aeration.
If you don't see ammonia drop, or NO2 / NO3 increase, it's likely because the couple of ppm total ammonia that was added, spread over multiple weeks - hasn't really been enough to see the nitrification effect. Maybe just assimilated into biomass.
Since this thread is "cycling an aquarium" I'll say I like to see enough ammonia that I can watch ammonia decrease and detect NO2/NO3 increase. Your feeding isn't giving that so far. I'd add some ammonia drops personally.

If you want to keep feeding natural foods, maybe add some scavengers (hermits etc ) to eat it, so you don't have to just wait for slow decomposition.

Excellent! this is what I was looking for in terms of possible "next steps" was on the thought train of adding nassarius and hermits but also have Brightwell Quik Cycle on hand as well - would you use this? and if so how much would be appropriate? I don't mind going slow and steady just wanting to ensure I am not being counter productive...once again much appreciation for your clear direction and time to assist

 

[taricha]

but also have Brightwell Quik Cycle on hand as well - would you use this? and if so how much would be appropriate?

Sure. I'd add 1-2 ppm in a single dose, and watch the ammonia drop and see if it goes into NO2/NO3.

 

[Lasse]

If you go that way with adding ammonia - you will probably feed the heterotrophic blooming bacteria into a denser bio mass.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[H-TownMike]

I have cycled many FW tanks however i am very confused on my SW tank. I started with Dr. Tim's one and Only I also dosed Stability. I am able to process 2ppm ammonia in 24 hours however, I still have Nitrites at a level of 3 ppm I have had this level for about 2 weeks. I haven't added ammonia in about a week. I have nitrates at 30 on API test kit or above 75 Hanna checker not sure which one to believe at this point leaning to the API. water temp is 77F salinity is 1.025. What can be causing this stall?

 

[taricha]

I still have Nitrites at a level of 3 ppm I have had this level for about 2 weeks. I haven't added ammonia in about a week. I have nitrates at 30 on API test kit or above 75 Hanna checker not sure which one to believe at this point leaning to the API. water temp is 77F salinity is 1.025. What can be causing this stall?

no stall. Nitrite oxidation is slow - some bottled products that process ammonia quickly process nitrite slowly.
Also your nitrite is likely maxing out the test kits and so you can't see a small change.
Nitrite also interferes with Nitrate tests making those unreliable.

So either wait patiently for nitrite to come down from maxing out your test kit, or do water changes to lower it to a level you can test more easily.

 

[yambeezy23]

Good morning from Alaska!

Getting ready to do my second nano tank and I have a few questions on cycling / seeding my tank

I have a waterbox 35.2 that’s 7 months old.
Last month I did a rescape and added maybe 2-3 pounds of dry rock. The live rock I replaced I just threw in the back chamber.
Today I threw in 2 more pounds of new maxspect biospheres in my WB 35.2 to seed for the new tank.

In two weeks my new tank arrives. How much benefit will I get from moving the old live rock and 2 pounds of newly seeded bio balls into the new tank for the cycle ?

I also plan on using 1 oz of turbo start. I will be using life rock for the scape and special grade live sand

Also, what if I use my 7 month old bio spheres instead? Will that cause me a mini cycle in my WB 35.2 by taking that out?

 

[H-TownMike]

no stall. Nitrite oxidation is slow - some bottled products that process ammonia quickly process nitrite slowly.
Also your nitrite is likely maxing out the test kits and so you can't see a small change.
Nitrite also interferes with Nitrate tests making those unreliable.

So either wait patiently for nitrite to come down from maxing out your test kit, or do water changes to lower it to a level you can test more easily.

yes kinda what I figured. Plays right into my strong suit patience ..... But anyway thanks for verifying what I was thinking. And this also explains why my API says 30 and my Hanna says > 75....

 

[Lasse]

I have cycled many FW tanks however i am very confused on my SW tank. I started with Dr. Tim's one and Only I also dosed Stability. I am able to process 2ppm ammonia in 24 hours however, I still have Nitrites at a level of 3 ppm I have had this level for about 2 weeks. I haven't added ammonia in about a week. I have nitrates at 30 on API test kit or above 75 Hanna checker not sure which one to believe at this point leaning to the API. water temp is 77F salinity is 1.025. What can be causing this stall?

Stop dosing stability - it content heterotrophic bacteria that compete with the NOB (Nitrite Oxidizing Bacteria) and probably organic carbon.

As @taricha state the NO2 interferes with your NO3 test - even with Hanna when NO2 is around 3 mg/L

Below is schematic figure of NO2 interference disturb my NO3 measurements with Hanna High range.

In this situation - if I was not so patience as I am - I would add more One and Only and get an internal foam filter that I clean every day. It should be strong power head to the foam filter. take one of your freshwater filters - if you have any

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Jipolley]

I took live rock from the guy I bought my system from last month. I let it dry out and then added to to my tank and sump when I got everything set up. One thing I didn't do is clean the rock. Is this a bad thing? It had copepods and other helpful organisms on it (according to a him and a friend) should I be worried about anything that was previously on the rock hurting my cycling process?

 

[Lasse]

Its always good - IMO - to clean it from loose organic matter but I do not think it will give you any problems.

Sincerely Lasse

 

[Island Goby]

Sure. I'd add 1-2 ppm in a single dose, and watch the ammonia drop and see if it goes into NO2/NO3.

Just a quick update to let you know your advice was ever so helpful and made it through the cycle and subsequent transfer....much appreciation...

 

[Gizmoreef]

Anyone have experience with cycling Caribsea livesand with Real Reef Rock?
I don't think it will create an ammonia spike without dosing?

Many startup bacteria cultures aren't available for purchase here and the quickstart fluids are all from random shady brands I can't find any information or reviews from.

Stick to dosing it with food I guess?