Cycling Day 17

[ChandlerTingle]

So I’m on Day 17 and My readings are Ammonia is down to 0, Nitrite is 2.0 or 5.0 and Nitrate has risen to 40 ppm. Can Anyone tell if it looks more like 2.0 or 5.0?

 

[fachatga]

Don’t hunk it really matters. Looks like you’re all cycled

 

[ChandlerTingle]

Don’t hunk it really matters. Looks like you’re all cycled

I thought Ammonia and Nitrites have to be at 0 in order to be declared cycled?

 

[fachatga]

Your tank can process ammonia. You’ve got all the right kinds of bacteria in it. That’s really all cycling means. Big water change will get rid of most of the nitrates and nitrites. Even if you still have some nitrites in there after it won’t hurt the fish. Just add fish slowly so then bacterial growth in your tank can keep up with the increased ammonia production. What did you use to add bacteria? Ammonia when you started? Do you have live rock/sand?

 

[ChandlerTingle]

Your tank can process ammonia. You’ve got all the right kinds of bacteria in it. That’s really all cycling means. Big water change will get rid of most of the nitrates and nitrites. Even if you still have some nitrites in there after it won’t hurt the fish. Just add fish slowly so then bacterial growth in your tank can keep up with the increased ammonia production. What did you use to add bacteria? Ammonia when you started? Do you have live rock/sand?

I used API QuickStart, Dr Tim’s Ammonia Chloride and yes I used caribsea Arag alive Fiji pink sand. Undecided on the Live rock or dry rock. What would be the better choice. Tank is a 38 gallon for saltwater.

My plan is to have a damsel then put in a Peacock Mantis Shrimp.

Is it fine to not do it until I hit the 3rd week mark just to see if it changes?

How long do you think I have left until nitrites go down to 0 based off my results and products used if you were give a guess?

 

[fachatga]

you should have put rock in before your bacteria. It’s where you get all the surface area to hold the bacteria. I think tanks with just sand have trouble but this is where my experience ends. If you had either live rock or dry I would still say you’re good. But with just sand I’m not so sure. Live rock is much better but more expensive. I’ll have to call on somebody else to help you with adding the rock with where you are. @brandon429

 

[ChandlerTingle]

you should have put rock in before your bacteria. It’s where you get all the surface area to hold the bacteria. I think tanks with just sand have trouble but this is where my experience ends. If you had either live rock or dry I would still say you’re good. But with just sand I’m not so sure. Live rock is much better but more expensive. I’ll have to call on somebody else to help you with adding the rock with where you are. @brandon429

I do have a PVC Pipe in the tank for the shrimp’s burrow if that helps a little bit

 

[fachatga]

We will get you the help you need. Make sure to research mantis shrimp. They can break the aquarium glass and kill about anything else especially the CUC. Not saying not to get one. But it can limit what you can do in the future. Do you want to put corals in eventually?

 

[fachatga]

On short the rocks are your filter for a saltwater tank. It’s the basis for how we are able to keep what we do. The sand surely helps but rock is the basis. A pic of the setup probably will help when somebody else gets here to see what you’ve got set up.

 

[ChandlerTingle]

We will get you the help you need. Make sure to research mantis shrimp. They can break the aquarium glass and kill about anything else especially the CUC. Not saying not to get one. But it can limit what you can do in the future. Do you want to put corals in eventually?

Yeah did my research and have the glass thick enough for it. Probably not since I’m just starting in the hobby buy I’m sure in the future, I’ll get into that area in the future most likely once I learn more

 

[ChandlerTingle]

Here’s my tank

 

[Hadla]

It’s a myth that they will break glass. Most aquarium glass is too thick for them to even chip it. They’re all too small as well.

 

[PeterZammetti]

So I’m on Day 17 and My readings are Ammonia is down to 0, Nitrite is 2.0 or 5.0 and Nitrate has risen to 40 ppm. Can Anyone tell if it looks more like 2.0 or 5.0?

Cycle is not complete until ammonia and nitrite is 0 AND nitrate has elevated. If nitrate does not elevate go REALLY slow when adding life because the cycle is not yet ready for livestock. Any ammonia or nitrite reading with fish in can be safely maneuvered with seachem prime/stability and WC if either jumps up to 1ppm.

 

[ChandlerTingle]

It’s a myth that they will break glass. Most aquarium glass is too thick for them to even chip it. They’re all too small as well.

Is 1/4 of an inch good the for a 4+ inch Peacock Mantis Shrimp

 

[Hadla]

Yeah it’ll be fine

 

[Cell]

Cycle is not complete until ammonia and nitrite is 0 AND nitrate has elevated. If nitrate does not elevate go REALLY slow when adding life because the cycle is not yet ready for livestock. Any ammonia or nitrite reading with fish in can be safely maneuvered with seachem prime/stability and WC if either jumps up to 1ppm.

Nitrite is not harmful to saltwater fish. The only reason to measure nitrite is to check on your cycle and to know when you can accurately measure nitrate. Stop testing nitrate until nitrite is 0, it's pointless, nitrate tests break down into nitrite to measure.

 

[Cell]

Your tank is ready for a damsel and a shrimp.

 

[LiamPM]

As above. Nitrite is not harmful in a saltwater environment unless at extremely high numbers but it will be skewing your nitrate readings either way.

You are essentially cycled, but i would definitely get some rock in there beforehand. If not for more surface for the bacteria you are growing to live on then for the damsel you plan on keeping to hide behind etc. Most tanks with zero rock end up with very skittish fish because there is nohere for them to retreat to.