Cycling help

deephan · May 12, 2021

Hi,need help im new to tis hobby
25/04 start cycling my tank.Salinity 1.023
i never dose any startup bacter..
I use api test kit.i cnt guess the accurate ppm..and i buy salifert test kit 12/05 the results is above pic..any problem with test kit or i need to buy other test kit to test again..no3 ppm reading???

26/04
Nh4-0.25 ppm
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-7.8

28/04
Nh4-0.25
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-7.8
02/05/
I dose microbacter start xlm

03/05
Nh4-0ppm
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-.8.0

7/5
Nh4-0ppm
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-.8.0

9/5
Nh4-0ppm
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-.8.0

11/5
Nh4-0ppm
No2-0
No3-0
Ph-.8.0

TnFishwater98 · May 12, 2021

Idoc · May 12, 2021

You need an ammonia source to jump start the cycle...if you didn't already do this. Some use a raw table shrimp, others put in some fish food, others use pure ammonia dosed to the tank. But, you need this source for the bacterial process to start working and growing. Theoretically, a tank will cycle on its own after about 30 days, but an ammonia source is preferred to help it get going.

Also, on Salifert tests, most (if not all of them) are designed to read from the top of the cup down to the bottom to look at the colors. If the colors are really faint, then you can turn them sideways like you are showing in the pics and then divide the color result by 10 to get your ppm.

But, it does look like your cycle is on its way...just really slow or stalled! Get some ammonia source in there!

TnFishwater98 · May 12, 2021

If you got a good LFS they will test your water. If your test liquids are not expired you’re good.
Ohhh just noticed when you started ...I just looked at test results

Idoc · May 12, 2021

Using the "divide by 10" method I mention above...

Your No3 looks around 1ppm, nitrates 0ppm, and Ammonia 0ppm. So to edit what I was saying about the tank being cycled... I think I would probably add another ammonia source to get more of the cycle going. It looks like you only started with 0.25ppm ammonia (which if you used an API kit for that early reading, that is basically zero ammonia). When you have some ammonia and it goes to zero, and then your nitrates are over 20-40ppm, then I would feel better saying you are cycled.

TnFishwater98 · May 12, 2021

Put a piece of raw shrimp in the tank.

BostonReefer300 · May 12, 2021

Welcome to R2R and the hobby! Salifert makes good test kits. API test kits are pretty bad as you’ve already discovered. I believe the salifert tests need to be read by looking down through the top of the vial. Your photos show looking through the side instead of from the top (which then shows 10x the actual value I think). Anyway, those pics suggest that you could be cycled, but more info is needed. How did you cycle your tank? Did you use a fish, just add some food, or some other way? Any water changes? Etc

deephan · May 13, 2021

BostonReefer300 said:
Welcome to R2R and the hobby! Salifert makes good test kits. API test kits are pretty bad as you’ve already discovered. I believe the salifert tests need to be read by looking down through the top of the vial. Your photos show looking through the side instead of from the top (which then shows 10x the actual value I think). Anyway, those pics suggest that you could be cycled, but more info is needed. How did you cycle your tank? Did you use a fish, just add some food, or some other way? Any water changes? Etc

BostonReefer300 said:
Welcome to R2R and the hobby! Salifert makes good test kits. API test kits are pretty bad as you’ve already discovered. I believe the salifert tests need to be read by looking down through the top of the vial. Your photos show looking through the side instead of from the top (which then shows 10x the actual value I think). Anyway, those pics suggest that you could be cycled, but more info is needed. How did you cycle your tank? Did you use a fish, just add some food, or some other way? Any water changes?

BostonReefer300 said:
Welcome to R2R and the hobby! Salifert makes good test kits. API test kits are pretty bad as you’ve already discovered. I believe the salifert tests need to be read by looking down through the top of the vial. Your photos show looking through the side instead of from the top (which then shows 10x the actual value I think). Anyway, those pics suggest that you could be cycled, but more info is needed. How did you cycle your tank? Did you use a fish, just add some food, or some other way? Any water changes? Etc

No live stock and i never dose ammonia and fish food..no water chg also..i just on the return pump n leave it..and after 1 week i dose microbacter start xlm.

I can dose ammonia to my tank?

deephan · May 13, 2021

Idoc said:
You need an ammonia source to jump start the cycle...if you didn't already do this. Some use a raw table shrimp, others put in some fish food, others use pure ammonia dosed to the tank. But, you need this source for the bacterial process to start working and growing. Theoretically, a tank will cycle on its own after about 30 days, but an ammonia source is preferred to help it get going.

Also, on Salifert tests, most (if not all of them) are designed to read from the top of the cup down to the bottom to look at the colors. If the colors are really faint, then you can turn them sideways like you are showing in the pics and then divide the color result by 10 to get your ppm.

But, it does look like your cycle is on its way...just really slow or stalled! Get some ammonia source in there!

Now i can dose brightwell quick cycle?

deephan · May 13, 2021

Idoc said:
Using the "divide by 10" method I mention above...

Your No3 looks around 1ppm, nitrates 0ppm, and Ammonia 0ppm. So to edit what I was saying about the tank being cycled... I think I would probably add another ammonia source to get more of the cycle going. It looks like you only started with 0.25ppm ammonia (which if you used an API kit for that early reading, that is basically zero ammonia). When you have some ammonia and it goes to zero, and then your nitrates are over 20-40ppm, then I would feel better saying you are cycled.

Ok thx for guide

willieboy240 · May 13, 2021

Watch brs on YouTube. It will answer all your questions and some.
Then you’ll be pointed in the right direction. Go slow.
Btw. API is fine for a starter kit.

Idoc · May 13, 2021

deephan said:
Now i can dose brightwell quick cycle?

You could... but you still need an ammonia source.

Azedenkae · May 13, 2021

Idoc said:
You could... but you still need an ammonia source.

Microbacter QuikCycl is an ammonia product: https://www.brightwellaquatics.com/products/microbacter-quikcycl.php

Azedenkae · May 13, 2021

deephan said:
I can dose ammonia to my tank?

Yes, you need to introduce an ammonia source of some sort, and that can be straight up ammonia (or ammonium chloride, rather).

Here, have a read of this to get a primer on cycling: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycling-an-aquarium.306554/

If it's too long, I made a cycling quick guide:

TnFishwater98 · May 13, 2021

Go old school , put a raw shrimp in the tank let it rot for a bit then take it out. Wait , wait, then check your water again. GL

TnFishwater98 · May 13, 2021

TnFishwater98 said:
Go old school , put a raw shrimp in the tank let it rot for a bit then take it out. Wait , wait, then check your water again. GL

If you got a Buddy that has a mature tank and it’s clean of pest you can use some of his LR to get a jump start...

deephan · May 13, 2021

Idoc said:
Using the "divide by 10" method I mention above...

Your No3 looks around 1ppm, nitrates 0ppm, and Ammonia 0ppm. So to edit what I was saying about the tank being cycled... I think I would probably add another ammonia source to get more of the cycle going. It looks like you only started with 0.25ppm ammonia (which if you used an API kit for that early reading, that is basically zero ammonia). When you have some ammonia and it goes to zero, and then your nitrates are over 20-40ppm, then I would feel better saying you are cycled.

Lets say reading show 20 mean divide by "10" 2ppm?
Not 20ppm?...is like tht to calculate?
Just only i add brightwell quick cycle ammonia..

deephan · May 13, 2021

Th

Azedenkae said:
Yes, you need to introduce an ammonia source of some sort, and that can be straight up ammonia (or ammonium chloride, rather).

Here, have a read of this to get a primer on cycling: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycling-an-aquarium.306554/

If it's too long, I made a cycling quick guide:

X for the guide

BostonReefer300 · May 13, 2021

deephan said:
Lets say reading show 20 mean divide by "10" 2ppm?
Not 20ppm?...is like tht to calculate?
Just only i add brightwell quick cycle ammonia..

If you're reading the salifert nitrate test from the side and the color matches 20ppm, then the actual value is 2ppm. I'm not sure if the other salifert tests also have the same side vs top value relationship as I only use their nitrate test. I really disagree with an earlier poster about API tests---in my opinion, they are complete junk and would recommend throwing them out. Thanks for the picture of your setup...it looks very nice. Only thing I'd recommend is putting your chiller outside of the cabinet. I know it looks better inside and that your wife probably wants it hidden, but it'll get pretty hot inside the cabinet and not be able to do its job well. Regarding cycling, you should follow the methods referenced by @Azedenkae or what's shown on the Bulk Reef Supply video (). Once your ammonia is quickly being oxidized, then I'd add a cheap, hardy fish like a damsel and keep testing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate at least once a day for a week. Just make sure you choose a fish that you'll want to keep long term unless you can borrow or rent one from a local store. Don't add any inverts or corals at this stage because your fish might have a disease that will need medication which isn't safe for other livestock. Check out the disease and quarantine guides on this site regarding that. Good luck and have fun!

deephan · May 14, 2021

BostonReefer300 said:
If you're reading the salifert nitrate test from the side and the color matches 20ppm, then the actual value is 2ppm. I'm not sure if the other salifert tests also have the same side vs top value relationship as I only use their nitrate test. I really disagree with an earlier poster about API tests---in my opinion, they are complete junk and would recommend throwing them out. Thanks for the picture of your setup...it looks very nice. Only thing I'd recommend is putting your chiller outside of the cabinet. I know it looks better inside and that your wife probably wants it hidden, but it'll get pretty hot inside the cabinet and not be able to do its job well. Regarding cycling, you should follow the methods referenced by @Azedenkae or what's shown on the Bulk Reef Supply video (). Once your ammonia is quickly being oxidized, then I'd add a cheap, hardy fish like a damsel and keep testing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate at least once a day for a week. Just make sure you choose a fish that you'll want to keep long term unless you can borrow or rent one from a local store. Don't add any inverts or corals at this stage because your fish might have a disease that will need medication which isn't safe for other livestock. Check out the disease and quarantine guides on this site regarding that. Good luck and have fun!