Cycling my QT...down to nitrates...

Congaken

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Nov 28, 2015
Messages
1,251
Reaction score
409
Location
Livingston Manor, NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Started three weeks ago with bottled ammonia...gone in week and a half...nitrite gone in another week...now 80 ppm of nitrate for about a week...will this go away as part of the nitrogen cycle or should I do something else to bring this down to a safe level for a single yellow watchman?...Is the nitrate that's in there adequate for feeding the bacteria?...Thanks...:confused:
 
Just give it time, be patient. I usually don't run a skimmer during cycling, but now would be a good time to add one since you're on the last step. Definitely do not had any fish with your nitrate testing at 80 ppm. They might survive, but this is like torture, even for the most hardiest of fish. I like to cycle using a bottle of Bio Spira, its basically just a way to load the system with good active bacteria needed to keep the tank cycled. If you don't have a skimmer, i highly suggest you get one! :D
 
Just give it time, be patient. I usually don't run a skimmer during cycling, but now would be a good time to add one since you're on the last step. Definitely do not had any fish with your nitrate testing at 80 ppm. They might survive, but this is like torture, even for the most hardiest of fish. I like to cycle using a bottle of Bio Spira, its basically just a way to load the system with good active bacteria needed to keep the tank cycled. If you don't have a skimmer, i highly suggest you get one! :D
Been using Cycle and sand from my DT...that's what brought me to this point...I could keep adding one of these products...but "live" sand seems to work best as far as most of the cycling is concerned...
Do you think that another week will do the job with the bacteria that are already in there?...Thanks...
 
Nitrate has to be removed your setup isn't designed to digest it

Water change will do, since your nitrate feed source is liquid ammonia added to water (vs a typical rotten sandbed years untouched leaking waste)

The specific time you can start a tank is when a few ppm ammonia have been shown to go to zero within 24 hours a few times. Need to shorten your evaluation window into two or three 2 ppm to zero runs verified within 24 hours of liquid ammonia dose. After that proof, any reasonable starting bioload will be less than half a ppm per X interval...the 2-3 ppm digestion tests well surpasses what you'll need in starting. You must export that nitrate or bind it up in something it won't leave on its own.
 
Yup yup/\/\
Nitrates has to be removed :-)
 
ok, I'm confused here. This guy says he is cycling a quarantine tank and you are telling him to set up a protein skimmer. do most people run a skimmer in a qt or are you just not reading the original post?
Just wondering
 
I didn't see this was a small 3 gallon lol


Endpoint nitrate in solution caused by liquid ammonia has the option of being water changed, up taken by plants, denitrated in special conditions
 
Last edited:
Nitrate has to be removed your setup isn't designed to digest it

Water change will do, since your nitrate feed source is liquid ammonia added to water (vs a typical rotten sandbed years untouched leaking waste)

The specific time you can start a tank is when a few ppm ammonia have been shown to go to zero within 24 hours a few times. Need to shorten your evaluation window into two or three 2 ppm to zero runs verified within 24 hours of liquid ammonia dose. After that proof, any reasonable starting bioload will be less than half a ppm per X interval...the 2-3 ppm digestion tests well surpasses what you'll need in starting. You must export that nitrate or bind it up in something it won't leave on its own.
 
Thanks for the reply...my tank is only 3 gallons...for one watchman...I started with only a cap- full of ammonia...and that's led me to where I am...listening to your post, I added another cap-full today...I'll check in 24 hours and see how long it takes...I also did a water change before adding the ammonia...does all of this seem right to you?...
 
ok, I'm confused here. This guy says he is cycling a quarantine tank and you are telling him to set up a protein skimmer. do most people run a skimmer in a qt or are you just not reading the original post?
Just wondering

I have not heard of anyone using a skimmer on a QT. Most get by with a power head and water changes. Some people use sponge filters or your basic box filters that hang outside of the tank. Those are mainly there for processing ammonia buildup. I suppose you could get nitrate levels high in quarantine but if so, a big water change will work faster than a skimmer for nutrient export,
 
Thank you PatW, I was confused as to whether they were talking about a Display tank, a Frag tank. or a quarantine tank. I thought that a water change in a QT was sufficient.
 
What is a big water change... will 75 % with equal parameters hurt anything?...I changed about a third yesterday with little result as far as the corals are concerned...I'll do the same today...thinking that "same parameters" is the key...wrong, right?...Thanks:confused:
 
Cong I see what you mean this is my take.

The only reef test kits I own are temp and salinity, that's what matters. I can keep any coral that will physically fit inside a pico reef alive for a decade off just those two params because I change all my water once a week, easy reset for pico reef.

its not that a full water change is required, its that its ok to do if access allows it. a 50% in your case is specifically associated with the longest running 3 gallon documented tank you can likely find on the internet, El Fab's 3 gallon pico reef, google that.

For the entirety of his tank, he only changed half the water 1.5 gal 1x a week, dosing nothing ever other than feed, for 3 years. he tested only salinity and temp.


I realize there are nine params you can test for reefing, its just not required past those two. test away and match away if you want, or not, since the examples provide for that. If I had a three gallon tank and not a one gallon tank, 50% weekly and low fish stocking so you don't accumulate waste would work fine and not be too much work. The animals we keep in pico reefs allow for that variation.

to show you how unimpactful water changes are, my own LFS makes my change water and they skip brands all the time. My tank goes from oceanic salt, to kent, to esv, to IO, to reefcrystals, on and on 100% instant water change, and they all have different params. even pH isn't needed, nothing past temp and salinity unless you are just enjoying the techy side more than the more work side.

the reason param matching isn't required in pico reefing is because all known salt mixes aren't lethal to corals, and corals adapt to param differences among salt mixes, for pico reefs. If you use a skimmer or not doesn't impact the need for testing things either, its just an option among options and not common on the smaller tanks.
 
I'm totally confused. I thought we were talking abut cycling a QT.
Sorry guys...I'm doing both...my DT has been cycled since June...all OK except now I overfed and nitrate went up to 40% affecting trumpet coral...I did a nearly 50% wc yesterday, went down to 30ppm, still no action from corals...on another thread I was told to do wc's...that's where I'm at...ready to do another wc...sorry, I was on the LPS forum...my QT is fine for now and I'll wc it as well...So can I overchange water if parameters are the same in Dt...Thanks for you patience...Ken:confused:
 
Cong I see what you mean this is my take.

The only reef test kits I own are temp and salinity, that's what matters. I can keep any coral that will physically fit inside a pico reef alive for a decade off just those two params because I change all my water once a week, easy reset for pico reef.

its not that a full water change is required, its that its ok to do if access allows it. a 50% in your case is specifically associated with the longest running 3 gallon documented tank you can likely find on the internet, El Fab's 3 gallon pico reef, google that.

For the entirety of his tank, he only changed half the water 1.5 gal 1x a week, dosing nothing ever other than feed, for 3 years. he tested only salinity and temp.


I realize there are nine params you can test for reefing, its just not required past those two. test away and match away if you want, or not, since the examples provide for that. If I had a three gallon tank and not a one gallon tank, 50% weekly and low fish stocking so you don't accumulate waste would work fine and not be too much work. The animals we keep in pico reefs allow for that variation.

to show you how unimpactful water changes are, my own LFS makes my change water and they skip brands all the time. My tank goes from oceanic salt, to kent, to esv, to IO, to reefcrystals, on and on 100% instant water change, and they all have different params. even pH isn't needed, nothing past temp and salinity unless you are just enjoying the techy side more than the more work side.

the reason param matching isn't required in pico reefing is because all known salt mixes aren't lethal to corals, and corals adapt to param differences among salt mixes, for pico reefs. If you use a skimmer or not doesn't impact the need for testing things either, its just an option among options and not common on the smaller tanks.
 
But it was the nitrates that went to 40ppm...salinity and temp were fine...unless something else go in way like TM's elimi aiptas...which I used once...the specifics are on the LPS forum...Thanks...Ken
 
that isn't harmful. if you have algae problems it is, and, the test is likely API which lowers the impact accuracy anyway. This covers all nitrate issues

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry
summary

if you have nitrate you want lower, you must either find the sink leaking it (waste stores, not common for a new tank) or you must find the ammonia source originating it (cycling ammonia if applicable). the question is do we need it lowered, there are higher nitrate reef tanks and there are lower ones/not harmful/

if you are using water from another tank to add to your pico, that's moving nitrate from one tank to another and it isn't bad, its just different from using clean water in the pico. If you don't have algae, don't worry about testing is my offer. you can do any percentage beyond 50% water change a week and be ok, no matter what your nitrate says
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top