Hi everyone I’m setting up my first tank and need some help. Can I use both dr.Tim one and only and Seachem Stability at the same time ( or on different schedule) to start the nitrogen cycle? I’m planning to use all seachem filter media in canister ( carbon, matrix, phosguard, de-nitrate) and filter pad. Should I use any of them during this cycle process?
Cycling process
- Thread starter TaiVo
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Peach02
Valuable Member
You can use multiple bacterial supplements at the same time, its often recommended two, so you can provide more biodiversity in your bacteria.
However I would not recommend using a canister filter on a reef tank unless it is a nano cube. Carbon matrix, phosguard and denitrate shouldn't be used during the cycle as many provide a place for bacteria to live on and if a substantial portion of your bacteria colonsie here and you change the media....
However I would not recommend using a canister filter on a reef tank unless it is a nano cube. Carbon matrix, phosguard and denitrate shouldn't be used during the cycle as many provide a place for bacteria to live on and if a substantial portion of your bacteria colonsie here and you change the media....
CasaReefer
Promoted To Sponge
Welcome to R2R... Glad your here. Has you can already see. Wicked Smart people here. Excited for you and your new tank.
Maybe so us some pics and keep us updated... Good Luck.
Maybe so us some pics and keep us updated... Good Luck.
Quietman
2500 Club Member
I don't see why you couldn't use both. I used Dr Tim s and then microbacter7 shortly after. Still took a month or more to finish cycle.
Matrix is good as it's more surface area to seed. Not much on nitrate reduction I found. Great for starting QT and hospital tanks which is why I use it.
Shouldn't need to worry about phosphates until you feed. And even then careful as those po4 removal media can be too effective.
Carbon is never really bad but again you don't need during cycle.
Wont comment on denitrate, haven't used it. I will say with canister filter, clean it weekly and religiously. Water changes are also going to be critical.
Plan on having to manually deal with nitrates by dilution and if you're lucky it'll be less than expected.
Welcome and good luck!
Matrix is good as it's more surface area to seed. Not much on nitrate reduction I found. Great for starting QT and hospital tanks which is why I use it.
Shouldn't need to worry about phosphates until you feed. And even then careful as those po4 removal media can be too effective.
Carbon is never really bad but again you don't need during cycle.
Wont comment on denitrate, haven't used it. I will say with canister filter, clean it weekly and religiously. Water changes are also going to be critical.
Plan on having to manually deal with nitrates by dilution and if you're lucky it'll be less than expected.
Welcome and good luck!
Auquanut
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My Tank Thread
Welcome to R2R! As @Peach02 said, "Carbon matrix, phosguard and denitrate shouldn't be used during the cycle as many provide a place for bacteria to live on and if a substantial portion of your bacteria colonsie here and you change the media....". I'm not a big fan of canister filtration on a reef, but many have had a lot of success using them. Just make sure you clean it often.
While you're here, why don't you wander down the "Meet and Greet" section and introduce yourself. There are a lot of great folks here that would like to meet you.
While you're here, why don't you wander down the "Meet and Greet" section and introduce yourself. There are a lot of great folks here that would like to meet you.
Thank you everyone for the advices and welcoming me to the group!
I will document my journey to share with everyone and hope this will help new reefer like me in the future!
My tank is 29 gallons. Start with dry rock and dry caribsea aragonite sand. I will be using fluval 206 canister with all seachem products. Rodi water and Reef Crystal Salt.
I start my cycling process with bothDr.Tim and Stability. I choose phantom feeding method to provide ammonia source. I won’t use any light until the cycling is finished to minimize the algae breakout. Only use the Eheim 100W heater and Hydor Koralia 425 pump ( quite disappointed with this pump since the flow is very weak and planning to recplace with something else stronger ) . I will wait a couple days and then test the water. Hopefully the method I chose will help the cycle go by fast.
I will document my journey to share with everyone and hope this will help new reefer like me in the future!
My tank is 29 gallons. Start with dry rock and dry caribsea aragonite sand. I will be using fluval 206 canister with all seachem products. Rodi water and Reef Crystal Salt.
I start my cycling process with bothDr.Tim and Stability. I choose phantom feeding method to provide ammonia source. I won’t use any light until the cycling is finished to minimize the algae breakout. Only use the Eheim 100W heater and Hydor Koralia 425 pump ( quite disappointed with this pump since the flow is very weak and planning to recplace with something else stronger ) . I will wait a couple days and then test the water. Hopefully the method I chose will help the cycle go by fast.
Something to clarify that’s important
Live rock doesn’t need to cycle. It brings home all bac from the pet store. What we do with live rock is prevent free ammonia, but for dry rocks we add it
Polar opposite handling based on the kind of rock that is
Is that live rock above
Bottle bac is for dry rock cycling. Several ways to tell if you brought home skip cycle rocks that are already ready:
Was from a vat of water in the lfs marked live rock, has bugs and pods and starfish arms coming out the live rock. If it has algae or any living attachments that’s cycled rock.
Was the rock dry, or wet at the place you bought it? That and any attached growths are the final determinant. Post a clear, up close pic of the live rock. Per the pics above, it looks like there are attachments like algae and various growths. If that’s just dry life rock from Caribsea, painted, then it still doesn’t need bottle bac as you paid extra for rocks that have painted on bac.
Before anyone can advise your cycle we have to know rock specifics.
I have never seen purple rock that requires bottle bac one way or the other so odds are we are about to save you from wasting money. Knowing exactly how bacteria manifest in your reef tank is a critical first step in taking command over the system so you can care for it and clean it to prevent algae loss, your care boundaries are set by what bacteria allow so that’s why getting it right first pass matters. It starts you in a deliberate vs hesitating mode, that makes all the difference later on when invasive algae begins, you’ll already be practiced in matching the right action to a need vs a guess.
Live rock doesn’t need to cycle. It brings home all bac from the pet store. What we do with live rock is prevent free ammonia, but for dry rocks we add it
Polar opposite handling based on the kind of rock that is
Is that live rock above
Bottle bac is for dry rock cycling. Several ways to tell if you brought home skip cycle rocks that are already ready:
Was from a vat of water in the lfs marked live rock, has bugs and pods and starfish arms coming out the live rock. If it has algae or any living attachments that’s cycled rock.
Was the rock dry, or wet at the place you bought it? That and any attached growths are the final determinant. Post a clear, up close pic of the live rock. Per the pics above, it looks like there are attachments like algae and various growths. If that’s just dry life rock from Caribsea, painted, then it still doesn’t need bottle bac as you paid extra for rocks that have painted on bac.
Before anyone can advise your cycle we have to know rock specifics.
I have never seen purple rock that requires bottle bac one way or the other so odds are we are about to save you from wasting money. Knowing exactly how bacteria manifest in your reef tank is a critical first step in taking command over the system so you can care for it and clean it to prevent algae loss, your care boundaries are set by what bacteria allow so that’s why getting it right first pass matters. It starts you in a deliberate vs hesitating mode, that makes all the difference later on when invasive algae begins, you’ll already be practiced in matching the right action to a need vs a guess.
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It’s been a week since I start cycling. My reading is ammonia 0.3ppm, nitrite is 0 and nitrate is 5ppm. Is it possible and should I do a water change every week until the cycling is done? I phantom feeding twice.
