Cycling reassurance

Chris in Spain

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I would be very grateful for any advice or opinions.
I`ll start with a little history first.
We had this particular tank set up and running stable for around a year before moving from the UK to Spain.
We had the tank, equipment, rocks and sand transported along with everything else.
At the time we decided to keep the sand because we were unsure on availability, which is limited in our region. The rocks amounted to around 60kg wet, so keeping them was a must.
The rock we have is Fiji and was live/matured purchased from a local LFS at the time.
Everything has been transported and stored for 2 years. The rock and sand had been washed until all the water had run clear before transported, we ended up having to give away all the corals and livestock.
We left the rocks and sand out in the weather once we got to Spain for a while, then rewashed it again. Eventually the rocks were left out to bake for 2 summers mainly because there was nowhere to store them.
When it came time for us to start thinking about setting the tank back up everything was washed then put in a mild bleach solution with water changes every 3 to 4 days for 2 weeks, then soaked in ro water which was changed until there was no trace of any bleach odour.
The tank was set up with a basic return system to ensure it was still good and water tested for 2 weeks. As everything was good to go we cleaned the tank out, unfortunately we couldn't remove some old coralline deposits on the weir box as it was damaging it. We decided it was such a small amount it wouldn't make much difference in the overall scheme, i guess that was a mistake.
We added the rock after it was dry again then the sand before filling with salt water. There was some cloudiness to the water due to dust from the sand but this cleared after 2 days. we then ran the setup for a week to ensure no problems then started dosing with 3% ammonia until we reached 2ppm then added Dr Tims to begin the cycle.
so at that time we tested the parameters and had Ammonia 2ppm nitrites 0 or as close to 0 as could be detected and the same with Nitrates. a week later we still had 2ppm Ammonia 0.5 nitrites and still 0 nitrates, A week following the ammonia was down to 1ppm Nitrites 5 ppm Nirtates 10ppm, following week Ammonia was 0 nitrites 10ppm nitrates 50 then a green tinge started to appear in the water, we expected this was the beginning of an algae bloom but no lights were on, the water had no odour. fast forward to this week (week 5) we have Ammonia 0 Nitrite still 5 and Nitrates 100 and still the water is slightly green only visible in the main tank, the sump looks clear due to its water volume. We have some diatoms on the sump rocks but none in the tank as yet.
As we have only ever cycled with live rock and live sand previously we never had this.
I this a normal cycle for using all dry? The green water is causing concern. The water still remains odourless.
I am still waiting for a Phosphate test kit which probably will not arrive for another 2 weeks.
Oh and just to make you smile the tank is in a cave house.
PXL_20201124_153202454.jpg
 
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There shouldn't be any issues from not scraping all of the old coralline off the tank.
Any chance the green tint is from the glass? Unless it's low-iron glass, it will have a natural green hue to it. Could look worse depending on the lights.
If it truly is some type of bloom, you can add a UV sterilizer to see if that helps. If you do have diatoms, adding UV would be a good idea as well.
 
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There shouldn't be any issues from not scraping all of the old coralline off the tank.
Any chance the green tint is from the glass? Unless it's low-iron glass, it will have a natural green hue to it. Could look worse depending on the lights.
If it truly is some type of bloom, you can add a UV sterilizer to see if that helps. If you do have diatoms, adding UV would be a good idea as well.
Hi, thank you for your reply. yes the glass is low iron glass on three sides we didn't see the point in requesting it for the back when the tank was made. We did a comparison in the sunlight between the system water and fresh mixed and the new was crystal clear. I am ready to do a large water change if that's what is needed but would rather wait until the cycle has progressed more as it seems the nitrates are not going down yet.
I will look into a UV light and how best to add it to the pluming.
 
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Hi, thank you for your reply. yes the glass is low iron glass on three sides we didn't see the point in requesting it for the back when the tank was made. We did a comparison in the sunlight between the system water and fresh mixed and the new was crystal clear. I am ready to do a large water change if that's what is needed but would rather wait until the cycle has progressed more as it seems the nitrates are not going down yet.
I will look into a UV light and how best to add it to the pluming.
I forgot to add that the light is one we had from a freshwater tank, its just a cheap white LED, that was put on for the picture.
 
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this cycle is done, its as complete as your test kits will ever allow you to see.

that means disregard the cycle here, all the bacteria are stuck in place and only test kit drift is causing the concern. the greenwater/curing out is expected. nice setup. cycle done.

part of the rule changes to cycling in 2020 were updating when we actually call the cycle complete/don't have to wonder any more.

and that's earned by the directions date on the bottle bac we used, ten days for dr Tims. we're past ten days, and ammonia control was all we needed.
dead bottle bac would show all ammonia no change no interims.


updated cycling no longer factors nitrite, it doesn't matter is neutral in all phases of reefing, and nitrate as you can see is for color tuning/algae control the tests we use may or may not detect nitrate and nitrite accurately.

the ammonia movement plus number of days underwater relative to bottle bac directions qualifies this one.
 
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this cycle is done, its as complete as your test kits will ever allow you to see.

that means disregard the cycle here, all the bacteria are stuck in place and only test kit drift is causing the concern. the greenwater/curing out is expected. nice setup. cycle done.

part of the rule changes to cycling in 2020 were updating when we actually call the cycle complete/don't have to wonder any more.

and that's earned by the directions date on the bottle bac we used, ten days for dr Tims. we're past ten days, and ammonia control was all we needed.

updated cycling no longer factors nitrite, it doesn't matter is neutral in all phases of reefing, and nitrate as you can see is for color tuning/algae control the tests we use may or may not detect nitrate and nitrite accurately.
Thank you for that, we wanted to be certain that we didn't have a problem.
We are not ready to add livestock for a little while because the room isn't finished and then we will need to paint. For reference the paint is chemical free as it is lime and water.
So would you advise anything we could do until the new year? We chose the new year as a target because of there were any issues we could address them.
 
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A uv sterilizer will really really help here with the initial curing phase and it won't hurt the cycle at all

The cycling bac remain and do not starve as long as this stays wet, u don't have to run lights till animals need them
 
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