ok so I have had my 6.5 nano cycling and yesterday I hit a 2ppm on ammonia and my nitrite is off the charts and nitrate is at 40ppm I just retested those 3 today and now ammonia is at 1ppm, and the other 2 tests are the same when all this zeros out will that be a sufficient cycle? I heard ammonia is suppose to spike up higher, I will attach a picture of the new results with this thread. Left is ammonia middle is nitrite and right is nitrate
Cycling results for 6.5g nano
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Does lace rock have living coralline on it, or any pods and worms or any deposited life
We can pinpoint your cycle without pics too it just adds a few steps. What I was meaning earlier is we need to know if you started with live rock or dry rocks to know if those params above are ok
Try to post whole tank picture it's more helpful to gauge cycling off pics vs those above
What form of ammonia did you add to the tank if any
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/
We can pinpoint your cycle without pics too it just adds a few steps. What I was meaning earlier is we need to know if you started with live rock or dry rocks to know if those params above are ok
Try to post whole tank picture it's more helpful to gauge cycling off pics vs those above
What form of ammonia did you add to the tank if any
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/
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Hey you posted something fascinating
Wonder where the nitrites and ammonia are coming from
Has to be a protein source somewhere doing that. A once living animal or sink of waste rotting would be required, or direct addition of ammonia.
Your readings are amazing after seeing pics and hearing it's dry, no dieoff. I haven't read about lace rock, after researching it's origin can you tell if they are shipping you rocks that have to be cured before use (curing proteins out of the rock so it doesn't leak nutrients and unoxidized waste)
It's demonstrated and possible to get a new tank cycled for a decent start in 30-40 days if bottle bacteria is used maybe quicker.
If your tests can be verified accurate and there is a protein source in the tank you could really speed up the process with a round of bottled bacteria
Wonder where the nitrites and ammonia are coming from
Has to be a protein source somewhere doing that. A once living animal or sink of waste rotting would be required, or direct addition of ammonia.
Your readings are amazing after seeing pics and hearing it's dry, no dieoff. I haven't read about lace rock, after researching it's origin can you tell if they are shipping you rocks that have to be cured before use (curing proteins out of the rock so it doesn't leak nutrients and unoxidized waste)
It's demonstrated and possible to get a new tank cycled for a decent start in 30-40 days if bottle bacteria is used maybe quicker.
If your tests can be verified accurate and there is a protein source in the tank you could really speed up the process with a round of bottled bacteria
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Add bottle bac to speed things up if your rock came to you dry.
It's all guessing until we locate the source of your ammonia which tells how the other two measures came about.
The link I posted above shows that for your group of rocks, the cycle is done when ammonia goes from 2 ppm to zero within 24 hours a minimum one month after starting a cycle where you maintained ammonia levels and seeded the bacteria. Since you didn't add those things we wouldn't expect the same time frames
We have to know your ammonia source to answer your question, the one off set of readings won't work it's incomplete formula. We have to know if that source is still there for ammonia and actively pumping it into the tank...
Did you research to make sure lace Rock doesn't have a requirement to be cured. Does your history reading on lace rock show it to be free of organics when it comes to you? Pukani by comparison is full of organics
It's all guessing until we locate the source of your ammonia which tells how the other two measures came about.
The link I posted above shows that for your group of rocks, the cycle is done when ammonia goes from 2 ppm to zero within 24 hours a minimum one month after starting a cycle where you maintained ammonia levels and seeded the bacteria. Since you didn't add those things we wouldn't expect the same time frames
We have to know your ammonia source to answer your question, the one off set of readings won't work it's incomplete formula. We have to know if that source is still there for ammonia and actively pumping it into the tank...
Did you research to make sure lace Rock doesn't have a requirement to be cured. Does your history reading on lace rock show it to be free of organics when it comes to you? Pukani by comparison is full of organics
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Honestly I will call my lfs that I got it from and see where they get there rock tomorrow and see what they say, they have been super good to me with starting this tank, I should of asked more questions about the rock but after searching 3 other stores this was the only rock I could find that fits the nano this well
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One really handy way to begin learning about the tank due to specific details you've mentioned is to do a full water change, all of it. Match temp and salinity to the old water no other params matter. This is the rationale:
Any rebound of those numbers means a protein source is hidden in the rocks, unlikely but possible once you discover if they used be live rocks and then were dried out with all the animals still inside (a source for organic waste in the rock which when sitting in water a month can release ammonia due to tissue decay)
It's already been submerged a month, a full wc isn't going to undo anything, it's a gauge for organic loading. If your numbers don't rebound to that above, and you still don't add anything to the tank, that tells us no ammonia stores are in the tank. My thread linked shows what to add to begin the ammonia process again if needed
To me it's just as interesting for you to reset the numbers yourself with a full complete water change and see if they rebound as it is to post the initial reading. A full water change cannot hurt your tank I've done hundreds in my fully stocked tank
Any rebound of those numbers means a protein source is hidden in the rocks, unlikely but possible once you discover if they used be live rocks and then were dried out with all the animals still inside (a source for organic waste in the rock which when sitting in water a month can release ammonia due to tissue decay)
It's already been submerged a month, a full wc isn't going to undo anything, it's a gauge for organic loading. If your numbers don't rebound to that above, and you still don't add anything to the tank, that tells us no ammonia stores are in the tank. My thread linked shows what to add to begin the ammonia process again if needed
To me it's just as interesting for you to reset the numbers yourself with a full complete water change and see if they rebound as it is to post the initial reading. A full water change cannot hurt your tank I've done hundreds in my fully stocked tank
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