This is my first API test after a week of cycling the DT 40g. Using Dr. Tim bacteria and ammonia. Do I need to add more ammonia or just leave it like that?
Cycling test question.
- Thread starter Ruben's Reef
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This is my first API test after a week of cycling the DT 40g. Using Dr. Tim bacteria and ammonia. Do I need to add more ammonia or just leave it like that?
nautical_nathaniel
Indecision may or may not be my problem.
I would wait and see what the ammonia levels do.
PatW
2500 Club Member
I would let it run its full course. That is ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate at something in double digits. After that, you could add a second ammonia dose and see how long it takes to process.
With the API test, many people find that the lowest reading they get is .25. When I cycled my tank, I used Red Sea whose test does indicate 0 as does Salifert.
With the API test, many people find that the lowest reading they get is .25. When I cycled my tank, I used Red Sea whose test does indicate 0 as does Salifert.
Oceanwave45
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Hey there... Just my opinion but I would save yourself the headache now, and switch to a different test kit. I used API and had several false reads during my eight months I used the API brand. There are better test kits out there. Trust me on this! Save yourself the problems down the line!
Good luck!
Good luck!
OP
OP
Thanks. I will get a Red Sea or Salibert test kit as many reefers recommend.
Me and API are not buddies
That being said, did you know that if you use no test cycling, even api won’t matter. It will show you some ammonia movement at the predicted cycle times, if you need to see something as predictable as the stars, though they may not show true zero. The movement they’ll show is the proof.
We don’t need any testers to cycle your tank at all, why buy more
I have a growing cycling thread that revolves around testless cycling for these reasons:
Given any form of boosting with bac and ammonia, and 40 days underwater in that boosted condition, every aquarium in the world will cycle and not one will lag behind. Bacterial deposition rates are known, and don’t vary.
The dr tims instructions give addition amnts we add, per drop, for the right levels, even the known metabolites can be extracted and predicted from the initial ammonia levels w no testing.
You can spend more money, or use free biology to cycle. If you demand a fifteen day cycle then buy salifert
If you got forty days, you can cycle by your timeframes underwater alone, without fail.
That being said, did you know that if you use no test cycling, even api won’t matter. It will show you some ammonia movement at the predicted cycle times, if you need to see something as predictable as the stars, though they may not show true zero. The movement they’ll show is the proof.
We don’t need any testers to cycle your tank at all, why buy more
I have a growing cycling thread that revolves around testless cycling for these reasons:
Given any form of boosting with bac and ammonia, and 40 days underwater in that boosted condition, every aquarium in the world will cycle and not one will lag behind. Bacterial deposition rates are known, and don’t vary.
The dr tims instructions give addition amnts we add, per drop, for the right levels, even the known metabolites can be extracted and predicted from the initial ammonia levels w no testing.
You can spend more money, or use free biology to cycle. If you demand a fifteen day cycle then buy salifert
If you got forty days, you can cycle by your timeframes underwater alone, without fail.
Testless cycling using all known factors:
Setup rocks water sand heater. Add the bottle bac and ammonia to the system to approximate 2 ppm off the bottle instructions
Plus or minus a little, older instructions had keepers adding more than they do now, doesn’t matter.
Circulate this mix for two weeks
Add the exact same amnts of bottle bac and ammonia again, circulate three weeks.
Change out all the water. done.
No test required
by rule of microbial deposition already known for eighty years it’ll cycle before that date, 40 was just insurance.
Setup rocks water sand heater. Add the bottle bac and ammonia to the system to approximate 2 ppm off the bottle instructions
Plus or minus a little, older instructions had keepers adding more than they do now, doesn’t matter.
Circulate this mix for two weeks
Add the exact same amnts of bottle bac and ammonia again, circulate three weeks.
Change out all the water. done.
No test required
by rule of microbial deposition already known for eighty years it’ll cycle before that date, 40 was just insurance.
OP
OP
Now, do I have to add more ammonia when Seachem show that ammonia cane down or just leave it like that? Did the B.B. will die if no ammonia is present?
OP
OP
Second week of cycling the 40g DT with Dr. Tim bacteria/ ammonia and this is a test with API and Salifert for Nitrite and Nitrates as a test result comparison.
all you are doing is awaiting for the 4 weeks to play out. Check out your fill lines, any test varying from that can invalidate a reading and its a top reason we don't concern with a bunch of testing in our big thread, though its fun to do and practice agreed. Testing is that picky about fill lines, pre shaking the reagents, reagents not ever expired, and room lighting.
many confounds
and API itself adds another realm of ammonia guessing, we can see google results show many problems with low level ammonia testing even if you conduct the test spot-on.
You'll have to factor all that into how important testing is for you in the cycle.
The one test id do is after 4 weeks running at least some form of ammonia+ bottle bac like we covered, change all the tank water, bring the tank back to about 1 ppm ammonia, then test in 24 hours to see if its .25 (you are looking for movement down not necessarily a true zero, w that kit)
nice red sea comparisons too/helpful for out test tracking
any test before that time doesn't really indicate much, you are trying to get to a point where bacteria on your surfaces is doing the cycling, and only 30 days guarantees that.
many confounds
and API itself adds another realm of ammonia guessing, we can see google results show many problems with low level ammonia testing even if you conduct the test spot-on.
You'll have to factor all that into how important testing is for you in the cycle.
The one test id do is after 4 weeks running at least some form of ammonia+ bottle bac like we covered, change all the tank water, bring the tank back to about 1 ppm ammonia, then test in 24 hours to see if its .25 (you are looking for movement down not necessarily a true zero, w that kit)
nice red sea comparisons too/helpful for out test tracking
any test before that time doesn't really indicate much, you are trying to get to a point where bacteria on your surfaces is doing the cycling, and only 30 days guarantees that.
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