Cycling with high amonia

[Aqau_Dude]

Hey Everyone,

So i started a new tank and im cycling at the moment. I started with ammonium chloride powder since we can't get the bottled dr tims in the Netherlanda. I used a few teespoons for my 100 gallon tank but salifert test kit kept showing around 1.5 ppm. So i added dr tims and let it run. After a few days amoniak kept showing same results. And no nitrites. So i went to the lfs today and had him do a test with the aqauspin machine. Here it showed the followinf results. As you can see this says ny amonniak is at 6,3 i bought another bottle of bacterie from microlift. Is it recommended to do a waterchange and leave it? Or add more bacterie?

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Personally I'd do a WC to reduce the ammonia, if you're confident it's above 6.

 

[CasperOe]

If you are experiencing high ammonia levels in your newly cycling tank despite using ammonium chloride powder and adding Dr. Tim's bacteria, there are a few steps you can take to address the issue. Firstly, ensure that you are using the correct dosage of ammonium chloride for your tank size, as overdosing can lead to elevated ammonia levels. Additionally, verify that your water test kit is accurate and properly calibrated to obtain reliable readings.

Since you have already added Dr. Tim's bacteria and observed no reduction in ammonia levels, it might be beneficial to try a different brand of beneficial bacteria, such as the one you purchased from Microlift. Follow the instructions on the product carefully, dosing as recommended for your tank size. It's important to note that bacteria supplements can take some time to establish and become effective, so patience is key.

Considering the high ammonia reading from the Aquaspin machine at 6.3 ppm, it would be advisable to perform a partial water change to reduce the ammonia concentration. This will help create a healthier environment for your cycling process. Aim to replace approximately 20-25% of the tank water with freshly mixed saltwater.

Continuously monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels during the cycling process, as it may take several weeks for the beneficial bacteria to fully establish and for nitrite levels to rise. Be prepared for fluctuations in ammonia and nitrite levels, as this is a normal part of the cycling process. Regular testing and maintenance, including water changes and appropriate dosing of bacteria supplements, will aid in establishing a stable and healthy environment for your tank.

 

[Aqau_Dude]

So that's the isseu i just redid the salifert test and as you can see shows around 1,5ppm so not sure what to trust. But the salifert has been showing same results for 3 days now.

 

[Aqau_Dude]

Hey Guys, i was wondering what test kit would you follow? I did a 20% waterchange but the salifert is still showing the same reading. My nitrite is at 0.03 tested with Fauna Marina test kit using a Mastertronic.

 

[brandon429]

Notice the massive discrepancy between the two test kits, salifert showing barely above safe level and the aquaspin, searchable on the site as a constantly misreading kit? When you factor in the number of days your cycle has been running with feed + bottle bacteria in place + the known charted performance time for dr Tims bottle bac which have clearly reduced a massive initial input of ammonia, your cycle is done

Do a large water change. As much % as you can do, and the cycling bacteria are left behind attached to your rocks= done

The water change clears out compounds that alter those cheap test kits for known safe water, the bac remain and you are done

Source for this claim: a 40 page cycle troubleshoot thread doing this exact procedure.

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

Updated Cycling Science in Action This is a testless reef tank cycling thread, the only one from any board. If you ever had trouble with reef tank cycling in the past, you won't any longer after working some jobs with us. chances are you are using/about to use a method of reef tank cycling...

www.reef2reef.com

Your cycle is done, not stalled.

 

[Aqau_Dude]

Notice the massive discrepancy between the two test kits, salifert showing barely above safe level and the aquaspin, searchable on the site as a constantly misreading kit? When you factor in the number of days your cycle has been running with feed + bottle bacteria in place + the known charted performance time for dr Tims bottle bac which have clearly reduced a massive initial input of ammonia, your cycle is done

Do a large water change. As much % as you can do, and the cycling bacteria are left behind attached to your rocks= done

The water change clears out compounds that alter those cheap test kits for known safe water, the bac remain and you are done

Source for this claim: a 40 page cycle troubleshoot thread doing this exact procedure.

How to unstick any seemingly stuck cycle

Updated Cycling Science in Action This is a testless reef tank cycling thread, the only one from any board. If you ever had trouble with reef tank cycling in the past, you won't any longer after working some jobs with us. chances are you are using/about to use a method of reef tank cycling...

www.reef2reef.com

Your cycle is done, not stalled.

Thanks for the information. The last readings are Nitrites 0,285 mg/l and nitrates 4,89 mg/l. Do you recommend waiting till nitrites read 0 and then do a big water change? I also have another question. I've had some vermited snails in my current tank. I want make sure i don't bring them over. I have like 6 corals like some torches and euphilias. Is it recommded to bring them over to the new tank now before the fishes so i don't have to feed and in case some of them come over with the frags they starve? Or any other recommondation? I was thinking of dipping them in hydrogen peroxide or even dipping the skeleton in citric acid? Since that's the only thing that i've seen actually kills them when cleaning my pumps.