Cycling

bobbyg04

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Hey guys! Real quick question I just started a 32 gallon bio cube and I have live sand and dry rock. But today I decided to buy a piece of live rock to try and help the cycling process get underway. But I've been hearing a little about bio spira by instant ocean, I guess my question is will that help get the cycling process get underway as well ? Almost as a boost to a degree ? Thanks !
 
Hey guys! Real quick question I just started a 32 gallon bio cube and I have live sand and dry rock. But today I decided to buy a piece of live rock to try and help the cycling process get underway. But I've been hearing a little about bio spira by instant ocean, I guess my question is will that help get the cycling process get underway as well ? Almost as a boost to a degree ? Thanks !
I use Biospira to seed my QT when I set it up. Works great. Get a small bottle and dump it in your bio cube and you should be well on your way.

I also recommend getting pure ammonia to use to cycle your tank (not clear ammonia). This is the most reliable way to feed the bacteria without the problems ghost feeding or adding a shrimp can cause.
 
I use Biospira to seed my QT when I set it up. Works great. Get a small bottle and dump it in your bio cube and you should be well on your way.

I also recommend getting pure ammonia to use to cycle your tank (not clear ammonia). This is the most reliable way to feed the bacteria without the problems ghost feeding or adding a shrimp can cause.

Thanks! Should I put the whole 8.4 oz in the tank ? And when you say pure ammonia, do you mean from like the hardware store and if so how much would you recommend putting in the tank ?
 
Thanks! Should I put the whole 8.4 oz in the tank ? And when you say pure ammonia, do you mean from like the hardware store and if so how much would you recommend putting in the tank ?
Ace Hardware is about the only place I know of that sells pure ammonia, but yes. And you will need very little. I think about 3.5ml of 10% pure ammonia if you go this route.

A better option would be to get Dr Tims ammonia chloride. Dr Tim developed Biospira before he made his own brand of bacteria. This is 1 drop per gallon.
 
Ace Hardware is about the only place I know of that sells pure ammonia, but yes. And you will need very little. I think about 3.5ml of 10% pure ammonia if you go this route.

A better option would be to get Dr Tims ammonia chloride. Dr Tim developed Biospira before he made his own brand of bacteria. This is 1 drop per gallon.

Thank you so much! When it comes to dr tims product, am I using it once for the cycling or more of a once a day type thing ?
 
Thank you so much! When it comes to dr tims product, am I using it once for the cycling or more of a once a day type thing ?
He has some instructions for using it that come with it. I like to simplify it.
You want to add enough to get to around 2ppm (1 drop per gallon). Test ammonia to verify.
24 hrs later test ammonia again. If it is zero your cycle is complete.
If it isn't zero, test again 24 hrs later. When it gets to 0ppm (or close) dose it back up to 2ppm.

When you can go from 2ppm to 0ppm in 24 hrs, your tank is cycled.
Test for nitrites (should be 0ppm) and nitrates (you want to see nitrates). If nitrates are over 10ppm I would do a 20% water change or so.

As long as your tank has had salt water in it for around 2 weeks, it should be ready for a CuC and/or fish at this point.

Fish don't like freshly mixed salt water and it is always good to let your rock and substrate soak for awhile, too. Lots of different chemical reactions occur and it is best if you give the water time to buffer and stabilize.
 
  1. Start the cycle: DO NOT ADD LIVE ANIMALS. All you need is a pinch of fish food or an uncooked table shrimp. The table shrimp works because you can monitor its progress as it rots.
At this point your tank is running, your rocks and sand are in place, your powerheads are positioned, and your filtration has been fine tuned. This is the part that is most important to the well being of your tank. You cannot skip this step or your aquarium will never stop cycling. This can take up to 6 months before you can add any corals. Don’t fret. There is still plenty to do and see! The cycle is a very interesting thing to watch.

Section 5: The Cycle

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image via @rusticgirls

In a freshwater aquarium you can add some flake food, wait a couple weeks, and then you can add fish. In the ocean there is much more involved than mechanical filtration. In fact, 70% of your aquariums filtration relies on the maturity of the live rock. A combination of bacteria, algae, and various invertebrates compose the “live” part of the rock. It takes quite a while to establish an ecosystem, even on a microscopic level. Without a proper understanding of the Marine Cycle, you will be in for a long term battle with parameters and algae. There are six main stages to a properly cycled tank. Follow this guide and you cannot mess up. You will need your basic test kit to test the progress.

Stage 1: Ammonia Cycle

Ammonia is the first thing that forms when something rots. It is a waste product in nearly all creatures as well. Instead of using a fish to start the cycle just use some food. Anything that is all natural and uncooked works just fine. Table shrimp that is uncooked works great. Drop it on the sand so it is in view. The shrimp should begin to rot within a couple hours or more. Let this shrimp rot until it is completely gone. If you are curious what your ammonia levels are, go ahead and take some tests. Keep track of the results as the shrimp rots. The smaller the food gets the more ammonia should be present in your water column and pretty soon should be off the charts. This will stay high for a while, but then start to drop. As soon as the ammonia starts to drop you will see a rise in Nitrite, you are now on the next stage.

Stage 2: Nitrite Cycle

Ammonia when broken down by bacteria becomes Nitrite, which is still a toxin. As your Nitrites rise your Ammonia will drop, drop, and keep dropping as long as you haven’t added any animals. Keep up with testing to observe your progress. Eventually your Ammonia will be very low and your nitrites will peak out until it starts feeding a different type of bacteria that turns it into Nitrates. Once your first signs of Nitrates are seen you are on the next stage.

Stage 3: Nitrate Cycle

Nitrates are removed within the live rock deep inside in all of the deep pours. This hidden bacteria consumes the nitrate and creates nitrogen gas as a byproduct. The nitrogen gas rises in the water column and escapes into the air. When one gas leave, another enters. Oxygen is then infused into the water. After the Nitrates start to dissipate your oxygen will increase and you will be ready for the intermission:
 

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