Cyno or Dino?

[lubeck]

I figured I should post my own thread. The issue is only on the sand and it goes away at night. Comes back strong during the day. It looks like reddish/brown film. I will take a pic of it in the next hour or so.

does anyone know based on the description? I’m thinking it could be silicates in my water source but don’t have the means to test at the moment. I use rodi and the tds is currently reading 1.

once i can identify I will do my research. Thanks

 

[vetteguy53081]

I figured I should post my own thread. The issue is only on the sand and it goes away at night. Comes back strong during the day. It looks like reddish/brown film. I will take a pic of it in the next hour or so.

does anyone know based on the description? I’m thinking it could be silicates in my water source but don’t have the means to test at the moment. I use rodi and the tds is currently reading 1.

once i can identify I will do my research. Thanks

Numbers would suggest cyano before Dino
Pics of the tank under white lighting would further confirm which it is

 

[lubeck]

Numbers would suggest cyano before Dino
Pics of the tank under white lighting would further confirm which it is

goes away at night and is mainly isolated to substrate only.

 

[vetteguy53081]

goes away at night and is mainly isolated to substrate only.

Cyano
Check your phosphate and nitrate to see if elevated
Siphon this up and reduce white light intensity or turn off white lighting all together
Add 1.5 ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 for one week and clean filters daily for that week
Is tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?

 

[lubeck]

Cyano
Check your phosphate and nitrate to see if elevated
Siphon this up and reduce white light intensity or turn off white lighting all together
Add 1.5 ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 for one week and clean filters daily for that week
Is tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?

I have a lot of sps corals and concerned About turning off the whites and reds. I have xr30 blue.

I ran numbers Sunday and posted them above. I have been adding a cap ful of micro bacter per day started two days ago

the tank is near the patio door but there is no direct light coming in due to a patio cover


rodi water as indicated above. Again I think I might have high silicates because I burn through DI resin. Tds is showing 1

 

[Spare time]

Looks more like spirulina. API algaefix works well for that.

 

[Spare time]

I have a lot of sps corals and concerned About turning off the whites and reds. I have xr30 blue.

I ran numbers Sunday and posted them above. I have been adding a cap ful of micro bacter per day started two days ago

the tank is near the patio door but there is no direct light coming in due to a patio cover


rodi water as indicated above. Again I think I might have high silicates because I burn through DI resin. Tds is showing 1

About the DI resin, do you allow the intial water for the first minute (flush or no flush) to bypass the DI resin? I didn't for a while and burned through resin like there was no tomorrow. Now my resin lasts months.

 

[lubeck]

About the DI resin, do you allow the intial water for the first minute (flush or no flush) to bypass the DI resin? I didn't for a while and burned through resin like there was no tomorrow. Now my resin lasts months.

Yes, but is it best to flush the first minute or not to flush?

 

[lubeck]

Looks more like spirulina. API algaefix works well for that.

Can spirulina be red? I haven’t found many articles on it yet. Still researching

 

[lubeck]

Looks more like spirulina. API algaefix works well for that.

Does that makes sense if it disappears at night and comes out during the day? is that what Cyno does?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have a lot of sps corals and concerned About turning off the whites and reds. I have xr30 blue.

I ran numbers Sunday and posted them above. I have been adding a cap ful of micro bacter per day started two days ago

the tank is near the patio door but there is no direct light coming in due to a patio cover


rodi water as indicated above. Again I think I might have high silicates because I burn through DI resin. Tds is showing 1

The power of uv is unsuspecting but as many found out, will penetrate shades, blinds and curtains. I saw your numbers and they would not be supportive of dino.
I should clarify, with your numbers, what test kits are you using >?

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skim-mate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

Also adding snails listed will help with control: cerith, margarita, astrea, trochus and nassarius plus 6-8 carribean blue leg hermits

 

[Spare time]

Does that makes sense if it disappears at night and comes out during the day? is that what Cyno does?

Dinos do that. There is one species of dino that supposedly looks like this, but to me it looks like spirulina. I can't say unless you had a microscope. PS if you ever wanted to get a microscope, its fun to look at stuff from the tank under one

 

[lubeck]

The power of uv is unsuspecting but as many found out, will penetrate shades, blinds and curtains. I saw your numbers and they would not be supportive of dino.
I should clarify, with your numbers, what test kits are you using >?

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skim-mate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

Also adding snails listed will help with control: cerith, margarita, astrea, trochus and nassarius plus 6-8 carribean blue leg hermits

Hanna test kits. I hear ya on the uv. I have blackouts and will try them. It’s odd because the algae/bacteria does go away at night which would be Dino’s according to a recent post above.

I have all those snails cuc. Plus a Mexican turbo. They all do good work

 

[lubeck]

Dinos do that. There is one species of dino that supposedly looks like this, but to me it looks like spirulina. I can't say unless you had a microscope. PS if you ever wanted to get a microscope, its fun to look at stuff from the tank under one

Im going to see if any of my neighbors kids have a microscope

 

[Spare time]

Im going to see if any of my neighbors kids have a microscope

There are so many neat critters we keep that we can't see without one. Its really fun.

 

[lubeck]

There are so many neat critters we keep that we can't see without one. Its really fun.

Back to the DI resin. I should flush it for a minute when first installed right?

 

[lubeck]

Cyano
Check your phosphate and nitrate to see if elevated
Siphon this up and reduce white light intensity or turn off white lighting all together
Add 1.5 ml of liquid bacteria such as micro bacter 7 for one week and clean filters daily for that week
Is tank at or near a window?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?

I ended up turning off all white, red And green on my radion. How long can sps handle the lower par. I will check what the par is with them off.

 

[Spare time]

Back to the DI resin. I should flush it for a minute when first installed right?

I flush it for about a minute every time I turn it on. When first installed, the instructions should mention to flush the carbon block for a while, and then the ro membrane.

The Bypass I mention is that you use some valves and another tubing line to let the initial high tds water, that exits the membrane when turning on (everytime), go to the drain and not the resin. For example, mine dumps water with over 100tds at first, then slowly drops (I have an inline tds meter) to 3 or 2 after a minute or so. If I don't bypass the resin, this high tds water hits in, and burns it up faster.

Can spirulina be red? I haven’t found many articles on it yet. Still researching

Spirulina looks brownish not red, but your color vision is better than mine.

 

[lubeck]

I flush it for about a minute every time I turn it on. When first installed, the instructions should mention to flush the carbon block for a while, and then the ro membrane.

The Bypass I mention is that you use some valves and another tubing line to let the initial high tds water, that exits the membrane when turning on (everytime), go to the drain and not the resin. For example, mine dumps water with over 100tds at first, then slowly drops (I have an inline tds meter) to 3 or 2 after a minute or so. If I don't bypass the resin, this high tds water hits in, and burns it up faster.



Spirulina looks brownish not red, but your color vision is better than mine.

Right. I haven’t been flushing. I do have a bypass valve and will start doing that.

this stuff is definitely on the redish side

btw my tds out of the Tap is over 650

plus it’s coming out of the softener I think. I don’t technically know if the water is already softened.

 

[lubeck]

Towards the evening,

bubbles start to appear on the mass