Daily AWC saltwater storage

Yeah I got that, but the concern of a system failure screwing it up. For a minimal daily impact.
I’m just risk averse.

The daily impact is low, but 365 of them in a year is very effective.
 
Following along. I’ve noticed that my TDS creeps up when I keep water in my storage container (Brute can) after a couple days. Wondering if anyone else has had this or found a solution. My containers are pretty well sealed but it still seems to creep. I’ve thought that maybe my circulation pump causes it. Or maybe when I lift the lid outside dust settles. I’m sure I have the same problem with my saltwater container.
I store my RODI in a Brute trash can as well. I use a BRS 5 stage 150 gpd RODI system. Prior to making salt I use a refractometer to test my RODI and its always been 1.000 sg. I've never seen TDS creep up. Possible something has gotten into your can that you might need to washout and rinse with RODI. Do you have a TDS on your RODI system? My whole house has a water softener and with the BRS RODI the TDS is always 0.
 
I store my RODI in a Brute trash can as well. I use a BRS 5 stage 150 gpd RODI system. Prior to making salt I use a refractometer to test my RODI and its always been 1.000 sg. I've never seen TDS creep up. Possible something has gotten into your can that you might need to washout and rinse with RODI. Do you have a TDS on your RODI system? My whole house has a water softener and with the BRS RODI the TDS is always 0.
TDS is just a measure of conductivity between two electrodes. (Detecting ions in the water)

This is conjecture on my part but unless your Brute is absolutely spotless I would expect the TDS to creep. Deionized water will draw other minerals and elements, such as those found on the surface of the can. It’s very “hungry” to acquire other components. It aggressively tries to compensate for the loss of its ions by taking them away from its surroundings. (Anything that is in the Brute can will become a component of your water over time).
 
I store my RODI in a Brute trash can as well. I use a BRS 5 stage 150 gpd RODI system. Prior to making salt I use a refractometer to test my RODI and its always been 1.000 sg. I've never seen TDS creep up. Possible something has gotten into your can that you might need to washout and rinse with RODI. Do you have a TDS on your RODI system? My whole house has a water softener and with the BRS RODI the TDS is always 0.
Yeah I’m going to try that. It’s in my garage which can be dusty at times. I do have a TDS meter. The in-line one says 0 after DI stage. My Rodi usually sits for a couple weeks before I use it all up for top off and saltwater mix. That’s good to hear that you have not seen this. I’m going to continue to investigate what’s getting into my water from sitting in there.
 
TDS is just a measure of conductivity between two electrodes. (Detecting ions in the water)

This is conjecture on my part but unless your Brute is absolutely spotless I would expect the TDS to creep. Deionized water will draw other minerals and elements, such as those found on he surface of the can. It’s very “hungry” to acquire other components. It aggressively tries to compensate for the loss of its ions by taking them away from its surroundings. (Anything that is in the Brute can will become a component of your water).
Interesting. I wonder if that’s my issue.
 
I would not worry about it, and expect incidental contamination from solids in the can or dusts in the air us the source.

I stored RO/di, limewater/kalkwasser, and new salt water in grey Brute cans and used them for sumps and refugia for 20 years.

I doubt they release problematic levels of anything from the actual plastic, and things they do release are unlikely to be charged ions that are detected by conductivity because charged ions are not going to dissolve well in plastic.
 
TDS is just a measure of conductivity between two electrodes. (Detecting ions in the water)

This is conjecture on my part but unless your Brute is absolutely spotless I would expect the TDS to creep. Deionized water will draw other minerals and elements, such as those found on the surface of the can. It’s very “hungry” to acquire other components. It aggressively tries to compensate for the loss of its ions by taking them away from its surroundings. (Anything that is in the Brute can will become a component of your water over time).
I understand TDS I just feel that as long as the the lid stays on the storage can and nothing is unintentionally dumped into the can the TDS over time shouldn't really change. At least any measurable change. I could see a TDS meter reading slightly different just due to inherent variations in accuracies of the TDS meter in use. Either way I feel like it would be negligible and wouldn't matter enough to worry about it. Just me though. If he's seeing significant swings in TDS then something might be in tank that requires cleaning.
 
usually seeing TDS go from zero to around 3-4 over the course of a few weeks. After reading Randy’s post I feel better about letting it be.
 
Interesting. I wonder if that’s my issue.
As stated by Randy and pretty much all others nothing to be concerned about, 'not an issue', assume you're just trying to understand it.

I assume the RODI can has been used exclusively for RODI, which could imply that your dusty garage could be a contributor. Just as an obvious example; I once used a previous brewing can which had some of the precipitate cake in spots on the walls, putting in DI water would 'dissolve' some of those solids and would measure a higher TDS. Also, I assume you do not aerate, only circulate? Enough said... :)
 
The daily impact is low, but 365 of them in a year is very effective.
In my simple mind I would think one 30 gallon per month WC would have a similar effect (tank size dependent obviously).
It would remove any chance of a tech failure causing draining or over flow issues.

Certainly it might affect stability but in a larger tank the impact would be very small.

Forum is littered with people who had tech failures doing auto WC.

Discussion is purely rhetorical as I never have needed to do WC
 
In my simple mind I would think one 30 gallon per month WC would have a similar effect (tank size dependent obviously).
It would remove any chance of a tech failure causing draining or over flow issues.

Certainly it might affect stability but in a larger tank the impact would be very small.

Forum is littered with people who had tech failures doing auto WC.

Discussion is purely rhetorical as I never have needed to do WC

There could be a failure, but if your pump cannot pump more than 1% per day, not much can go drastically wrong unless you ignore it for a long time..
 
the brown sludge is from salts that use an anti caking agent. IO is known to do the brown sides/bottoms. I've had that. Using it now but in my 60gal container, I prefer to use a salt that does not have anti caking as I can't hose it out as well. I use a 20 gal brute for my awc and use IO in that
 
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here's an article on salts, pros and cons. It tells you which salts use the anticaking agents

 
It is a clay binder as I understand it. Inevitable with RS salt mixes. Just clean from time to time, or consider changing salt mixes if it bothers you. BRS did a video on salt mixes and had some commentary on which ones are "cleaner" than others.
Did they make commentary on how much they profit on each salt? Red Sea claims it's not clay and that's also a debated conspiracy for a long time now.
 
Did they make commentary on how much they profit on each salt? Red Sea claims it's not clay and that's also a debated conspiracy for a long time now.
Oh boo. Shows how much I know, lol. LFS must have his tinfoil hat on. Granted it does look like clay. I wonder if anyone has had it analyzed, or if RS has addressed it.

No idea on the profile side
 
here's an article on salts, pros and cons. It tells you which salts use the anticaking agents

Thanks for the info and article. From what previous posters have said it looks like I might look into changing salt. If I do it slowly over time using my AWC it should have less of an affect on my parameters than someone who does larger water changes. I'll just monitor the main parameters over the time period to ensure I change my dosing requirements as needed. The BRS precipitate video was very helpful and has me leaning towards Tropic Marin. The down side is I haven't found an LFS that carries it so I'll have to rely on an online store. Something I don't mind doing however it can present a problem if I find myself in a pinch and need salt right away. I should be fine if I keep and eye on my salt consumption.
 
the brown sludge is from salts that use an anti caking agent. IO is known to do the brown sides/bottoms. I've had that. Using it now but in my 60gal container, I prefer to use a salt that does not have anti caking as I can't hose it out as well. I use a 20 gal brute for my awc and use IO in that

IMO, that is an assertion without basis in evidence.
Why do you claim it is an anticaking agent?

why wouldn’t normal IO have it then?
 
here's an article on salts, pros and cons. It tells you which salts use the anticaking agents

Like you, that opinion piece is repeating unsubstantiated information that is, IMO, not accurate.

It is a sales push ad from a store that doesn’t have an author listed, nor any evidence for their claims.
 
Thanks for the info and article. From what previous posters have said it looks like I might look into changing salt. If I do it slowly over time using my AWC it should have less of an affect on my parameters than someone who does larger water changes. I'll just monitor the main parameters over the time period to ensure I change my dosing requirements as needed. The BRS precipitate video was very helpful and has me leaning towards Tropic Marin. The down side is I haven't found an LFS that carries it so I'll have to rely on an online store. Something I don't mind doing however it can present a problem if I find myself in a pinch and need salt right away. I should be fine if I keep and eye on my salt consumption.

Do not fall for that misinformation.
 
Oh boo. Shows how much I know, lol. LFS must have his tinfoil hat on. Granted it does look like clay. I wonder if anyone has had it analyzed, or if RS has addressed it.

No idea on the profile side

According to a number of folks I have asked, including a top rep from Tropic Marin, clay is not used as an anticaking agent in the salt industry.
 

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