Dana Riddle's Laboratory/Tank Build

I've been remiss on updating this tank build. Very happy with the Reef Octopus skimmer - it skimmed a viscous (snotty) substance for a while and is now removing a more solid substance. As mentioned earlier, flow within the tank is very high and has kept impact of dinoflagellate growths to a minimum. Of the 13 corals added to a 'new' tank (a few weeks old), I've only lost one, believed to be due to the 'black box' LED losing its programming when I unplugged it (intensity went to 100/100% on the two programmable channels.) Acropora, Montipora, Cyphastrea, Acanthastrea, 'chalice' corals all doing well and growing. Tn pounds of live sand added as seed from a 10-gallon tank containing 3 damselfishes along with 40 pounds Carib-Sea AragaLive sand. PO4 (as P) remains at 0.001 ppm and nitrate at 0.9 (as N). More later.
 
Glad I found your build!
As mentioned earlier, flow within the tank is very high and has kept impact of dinoflagellate growths to a minimum. Of the 13
What is the science befing that? Low co2 or just not allowing them to settle and colonize ?

Let's see some pics Dana!
Bigjonny is right. Pics or it didn't happen. ;)
 
Got to subscribe to the build. Super excited !! Am assuming there's gonna be perhaps other tanks too to measure other lighting impacts like halides and T5s too ?

Regards,
Abhishek
 
Here are some photos of the new laboratory/tank build. I've got about 150 hours in over the last 3 weeks and this is in addition to the contractor's time. Should start moving 80 boxes of lab equipment in to the room next week as well as the first aquarium - a 90-gallon reef-ready tank. Many thanks to the contributors to my Gofundme account! I've got the equipment but it didn't have a home - now it does thanks to your generosity! I'll keep you posted - lab equipment should start moving in this weekend!
IMG_1897.JPG
IMG_1926.JPG


IMG_1899.JPG


IMG_1914.JPG
Looks like a really nice workspace.
 
Glad I found your build!

What is the science befing that? Low co2 or just not allowing them to settle and colonize ?


Bigjonny is right. Pics or it didn't happen. ;)
The dinoflagellates have settled but high velocity flow shears long growths off (there are patches where the rock appears stained a light brown though.) I periodically raise the pH to ~8.5 as well. You're right about pics. I'll spend some time and get good photos tomorrow.
 
Aquarium: 90-gallon with single overflow. Tank was plumbed in early August 2017. Fishes added in third week of August, followed a few days later by corals. Subject for another thread: Why is the recommendation made that corals must be added to a ‘mature’ system?

Fishes: Lightly loaded: 3 Chrysiptera damels totaling 6 inches body length.

Corals: 1- Acanthastrea species, 2 - Acropora (formosa?), 1- Acropora species, 1- Cyphastrea ‘Meteor Shower’, 1- Euphyllia, 1- Pavona/Leptoseris ‘Jack O’ Lantern’, 1 – Montipora capricornis, 2- Montipora species.

Artificial sea salts: Fauna Marin mixed with RO/DI water.

Feeding: Fishes – SeaChem Probiotic marine flakes and San Francisco Marine Cuisine frozen food. Fed several times a day. Corals – Fed PolypLab Reef Roids daily.

Rock: Appears to be mined rock. Unsure of source.

Sump: Trigger Systems Ruby Sump 36 (gallons)

Filtration, mechanical: Filter sock filters water between overflow and sump, followed by filter floss.

Filtration, skimmer: Reef Octopus

Filtration, biological: Tank was seeded with 10 pounds of live sand from an active tank, followed by 40 pounds of CaribSea’s Araga-Live Fiji Pink sand. Base is coarsely crushed aragonite gravel.

Filtration, chemical: A few ounces of extruded activated carbon in a nylon bag is in the sump’s overflow. Changed monthly.

Circulation: 1-Tunze 6255 (tested and run at full speed to produce ~7,100 gallons per hour) and a Danner Mag 9.5 return pump with flow accelerator (about 400 gallons per hour.) True tank volume is about 80 gallons, so 'turnover' is about 90x hour.

Lighting: Currently using a Chinese ‘black box’ Evergrow LED luminaire. I plan to upgrade soon. Light is placed directly on eggcrate material resting on top of tank. An appropriately sized piece of clear acrylic protects the light from salt spray.

Top-off System: Done manually through use of a small peristaltic pump. Alkalinity or calcium supplements are alternately added.

Water Changes: 10 gallons changed about every two weeks.

Testing Regimen:

Alkalinity (Weekly): Titration of sample with sulfuric acid to a pH of 4.2. Typical Value: 8-9 dKH

Ammonia (Occasional, though about to install a Seneye device capable of frequent, automatic monitoring): Hach Company Salicylate method and read by a Hach DR890 colorimeter. Typical Value: 0 ppm.

Calcium (Weekly): Sequential Hardness test, using Hach reagents. Typical Value: 400 -450 ppm. Kalkwasser is added to the skimmer via a peristaltic pump. This allows for good mixing, with the possibility of phosphate removal (via formation of apatite) and ammonia blow off (possibility of raising pH locally to a value that causes ammonia to de-gas. Maybe.)

Magnesium (Weekly): Same test as for calcium, with typical values of ~1,200 ppm. Oddly, I have not had to add magnesium as its concentration has remained fairly constant.

Nitrite (Occasional): Hach reagent and measured by a colorimeter. Typical Value: .001 ppm.

Nitrate (Weekly): Hach cadmium-reduction method. Typical Value: 0.7 ppm as Nitrogen.

Oxygen, dissolved (when curious): Hach IntelliCal D.O. sensor. Typical values typically at saturation point for temeperature and salinity.

pH (Continuous): Hanna pH probe. Typical Value: 8.2, with kalkwasser additions to raise pH to ~8.5 in order to control dinoflagellate growths.

Phosphate (Weekly): Hach reagents with analysis with a Hach colorimeter. Typical Value: 0.01 ppm as phosphorus.

Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR; as needed): Apogee MQ-500 meter, with correction for immersion effect. Typical Values: 100 (bottom); 400 (top.)

Specific Gravity: (~3x weekly): Calibrated refractometer. Typical Value: 1.025.

Temperature (~3x weekly): Calibrated thermometer or thermistor in Hach oxygen sensor. Typical Value: 77°F.

Water Motion (occasional): Measured by a Marsh-McBirney FloMate 2000 electronic digital water velocity meter. Typical Value: 6 inches per second around corals. High velocity within the tank keeps fish waste solids in suspension so they eventually enter the overflow and are hence removed by the filter sock. There is probably some maceration of fish waste by the propeller pump making fine particles available for capture by the corals.

Problems so far: Dinoflagellate outbreak, but kept in check by occasionally raising pH to 8.5. High flow velocity shears long dino growths off rocks. Bleaching of two corals when lighting program failed and intensity went to 100% on both channels resulting in loss of one. Acroporas and Montipora capricornis are growing, Cyphastrea and Pavona are starting to encrust, Acanthastrea growing multiple new heads. Other corals maintaining color and doing OK.

Pictures soon!
 
Not sure why the photo I posted isn't cropped as it was saved. I've got several decent photos but let me figure out what's going on with the sucky program.
 
Looking good Dana! Any updates?
 
I purchased 11 corals Sunday afternoon and am conducting testing of a Kessil AP700, a Seneye PAR/PUR/Spectrum/pH/temp/ammonia device, as well as a couple projects that I can't discuss... Lots going on!
 
a-dino-jpg.617278











































After keeping marine aquaria for almost 50 years, there is always something to learn, as I did with this nasty diatom growing in the tank. I originally misdiagnosed the problem as dinoflagellates and didn't add any predators (snails, conchs, etc.) for fear of toxicity issues. Big mistake on my part. The addition of Turbos, Astreas, and two sand-shifting conchs took care of the problem in a few weeks but addition of Chaetomorpha to the sump seemed to make the biggest difference with patches of diatoms disappearing overnight (a good allelopathy?) Diatoms can compete with some corals through allelopathy and I lost 3 Acroporas. One Montipora (a Superman) was also affected, but not killed, and it is starting to regrow tissue. Now that I am pretty sure the problem has passed, I will add new corals (waiting on a sale at my favorite shop.) The consensus seems to be that the use of dry rock is conducive to diatom growths.
 
Sorry about the losses.
But good to hear the problem is under control.
So that last picture is diatoms under the microscope?
 
Sorry about the losses.
But good to hear the problem is under control.
So that last picture is diatoms under the microscope?
Yes, Licmophora, if my ID is correct.
 
I will add new corals (waiting on a sale at my favorite shop.)

As someone living in Georgia, as well, what has your favorite shop become? I'm partial to Rit at Atlanta Aquarium, as it's so close to home. I visited Pure Reef last week for the Atlanta Reef Club meeting. Very nice shop as well!
 
As someone living in Georgia, as well, what has your favorite shop become? I'm partial to Rit at Atlanta Aquarium, as it's so close to home. I visited Pure Reef last week for the Atlanta Reef Club meeting. Very nice shop as well!
There are several good shops near by - for corals, hands down, it's Reef Shac on Powder Springs Road in Marietta. For selection, Premium Aquatics is great. Optimum Aquarium is good as is Creation Pets. I hear there are some other great shops around Atlanta, but I haven't visited them yet.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top