Dead bacteria?

[BuddyBonButt]

Hi, I started my tank cycle about 4 maybe 4.5 weeks ago. I used Frtiz zyme 9. I have 100 gallons and it recommended I used 72 ounces for that size tank. I instead poured 96. I knew it wouldn't hurt it. I checked the expiration date. They are to expire (all 3 bottles) this time NEXT year.

I opted for a fishless cycle. So I used dr. Tims ammonium chloride and dose according to the bottle. Turns out the dose was way off and I should halve what the bottle says because for whatever reason they are off. I ended up dosing above 8 PPM ammonia. Over the course of those four to five weeks my ammonia drop down to 0.25 maybe .5. After doing a water change about 2 weeks ago after learning about the mistake. My uv sterilizer was off the entire time. Same as my skimmer.

I have tried three different test kits and two different brands and I keep getting the same outcome. My ammonia has stopped decreasing my nitrites have peaked and lowered, but also is not showing 0, and my nitrate is now very high (good signs) but my ammonia won't read 0. Is there something wrong with my bacteria? I have attached a picture. Please remember as usual, colors are a touch darker than in person. These results were taken yesterday afternoon. I didn't track my results. Didn't think about it. I know that was a mistake

Also my pH level is 8.0. I have used fluval and api to get these test results.

 

[blaxsun]

API tests are very hard to read, which is why most of us don't recommend or use them. The tank is new - there's going to be a residual amount of ammonia (it looks to be 0.25). Nitrites I honestly have no idea (could be 0.5 - could be 5.0). Nitrates doesn't look that high (maybe 20.0).

Your tank has probably cycled. A quick glance at your rocks to see where you're at with the "ugly stage" would be a good tell.

 

[BuddyBonButt]

API tests are very hard to read, which is why most of us don't recommend or use them. The tank is new - there's going to be a residual amount of ammonia (it looks to be 0.25). Nitrites I honestly have no idea (could be 0.5 - could be 5.0). Nitrates doesn't look that high (maybe 20.0).

Your tank has probably cycled. A quick glance at your rocks to see where you're at with the "ugly stage" would be a good tell.

Tank looks beautiful. Take a look. No visual markings that it's cycled.

I've looked into tons of test kits and I feel api was the best. What would you recommend?

 

[blaxsun]

Tank looks beautiful. Take a look. No visual markings that it's cycled.

I've looked into tons of test kits and I feel api was the best. What would you recommend?

You've already got some coralline growing from what I can see. If so, you have arrived.

I use several: Aquaforest, Hanna, Nyos, Red Sea. Hanna seems to be the most consistent and accurate (but also more expensive). Many like Salifert kits as well.

I have the Red Sea Marine Care kit, which includes: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and alkalinity. I also have the calcium and magnesium pro as well as the trace elements.

Hanna I have the alkalinity, calcium, phosphate, pH and ULR nitrate (which I wouldn't recommend - get the HR nitrate).

I use Nyos for phosphates and alkalinity (which I test for the most often and find the easiest to read). Aquaforest I just have the magnesium.

Some of these tests kits I'm just using up. For some key parameters I like to have two different versions (nitrates, phosphates).

 

[BuddyBonButt]

You've already got some coralline growing from what I can see. If so, you have arrived.

I use several: Aquaforest, Hanna, Nyos, Red Sea. Hanna seems to be the most consistent and accurate (but also more expensive). Many like Salifert kits as well.

No it's painted caribsea liferock. Comes purple.

I might switch to red sea. Can't quite afford hanna

 

[blaxsun]

No it's painted caribsea liferock. Comes purple.
I might switch to red sea. Can't quite afford hanna

It looks nice.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

If you add too much ammonia, your cycle can stall. If you already did this, I apologize for missing it, but I'd do a 20% water change and add another dose of bacteria (not the full dose from before, maybe 1/4-1/3). I have mixed feelings about API. Used correctly, they are very consistent. They just don't always give precise results (they use broader ranges than some others).

 

[BuddyBonButt]

If you add too much ammonia, your cycle can stall. If you already did this, I apologize for missing it, but I'd do a 20% water change and add another dose of bacteria (not the full dose from before, maybe 1/4-1/3). I have mixed feelings about API. Used correctly, they are very consistent. They just don't always give precise results (they use broader ranges than some others).

I did the water change. Roughly 30% but didn't add more bacteria. I was thinking to add more

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

**also, when you shake the test tubes during the API tests, always use the cap and NOT your thumb... your results can be off a bit if you don't

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I did the water change. Roughly 30% but didn't add more bacteria. I was thinking to add more

It can be any kind at this point... You just want to boost the ammonia-reducing bacteria a bit.

 

[BuddyBonButt]

It can be any kind at this point... You just want to boost the ammonia-reducing bacteria a bit.

Ok I'll do that today. Would you recommend the same brand or something else? Both are readily accessible to me

 

[BuddyBonButt]

**also, when you shake the test tubes during the API tests, always use the cap and NOT your thumb... your results can be off a bit if you don't

Yep. Always use the caps. One leaked and caused me to drop it... aka throw it across the room

 

[ReefGeezer]

Salifert for nitrate is good and not overly expensive. For ammonia, stick with the API kit but know that the .25 greenish yellow look is probably really close to 0.

If you drove ammonia to 8 ppm, there was a very high level on nitrite created... and it was still high after your 30% water change. It very well still could be on it's way down. 1 ppm ammonia --> 2.7 ppm nitrite, so your nitrite could have been higher than 20 ppm. You reduced that by 30% with your water change but it could still have been 14 ppm. I read your API kit a >5ppm of Nitrite. Don't test nitrate until the nitrite is gone. The results will not be accurate because of the way the nitrate test works, and it is not time to worry about that now anyway.

While I don't like putting fish is less that optimal water, Nitrite is not very harmful in a marine environment. My advice would be to treat the tank as if it were cycled and add fish. Then monitor ammonia just in case for a couple of weeks. Nitrites will fall slowly and then you can then worry about nitrates.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Yep. Always use the caps. One leaked and caused me to drop it... aka throw it across the room

Yeah, that's one problem with their vials. In answer to your other question, any type of bacteria is fine.

 

[BuddyBonButt]

Salifert for nitrate is good and not overly expensive. For ammonia, stick with the API kit but know that the .25 greenish yellow look is probably really close to 0.

If you drove ammonia to 8 ppm, there was a very high level on nitrite created... and it was still high after your 30% water change. It very well still could be on it's way down. 1 ppm ammonia --> 2.7 ppm nitrite, so your nitrite could have been higher than 20 ppm. You reduced that by 30% with your water change but it could still have been 14 ppm. I read your API kit a >5ppm of Nitrite. Don't test nitrate until the nitrite is gone. The results will not be accurate because of the way the nitrate test works, and it is not time to worry about that now anyway.

While I don't like putting fish is less that optimal water, Nitrite is not very harmful in a marine environment. My advice would be to treat the tank as if it were cycled and add fish. Then monitor ammonia just in case for a couple of weeks. Nitrites will fall slowly and then you can then worry about nitrates.

I heard nitrite is still pretty bad for marine life. But I'll do some more looking into. Should I still add another bottle of bacteria?

 

[ReefGeezer]

I heard nitrite is still pretty bad for marine life. But I'll do some more looking into. Should I still add another bottle of bacteria?

Waste of money

 

[ReefGeezer]

Waste of money

Spend the money you would use for bacteria on a chunk of live rock or some live rock rubble.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Waste of money

I disagree.

 

[ReefGeezer]

I heard nitrite is still pretty bad for marine life. But I'll do some more looking into.

Sorry. I only replied to part of your post. Nitrite in FRESHWATER is much more toxic than it is in saltwater. The old school cycling process now used for saltwater tanks was developed a long time ago from freshwater processes. Waiting out the nitrite portion of the cycle simply remained until a better understanding its toxicity was learned. Careful where you go to look into it.

It won't hurt to wait out the nitrite, but you will need a small ammonia source to keep the everything going. Ghost feeding is an option, adding (very little) Dr. Tim's Ammonia, or adding a fish and feeding sparingly are all decent options.

 

[BuddyBonButt]

Sorry. I only replied to part of your post. Nitrite in FRESHWATER is much more toxic than it is in saltwater. The old school cycling process now used for saltwater tanks was developed a long time ago from freshwater processes. Waiting out the nitrite portion of the cycle simply remained until a better understanding its toxicity was learned. Careful where you go to look into it.

It won't hurt to wait out the nitrite, but you will need a small ammonia source to keep the everything going. Ghost feeding is an option, adding (very little) Dr. Tim's Ammonia, or adding a fish and feeding sparingly are all decent options.

I wanted to do a clown pair first. Safe to do so? Almost 5 weeks. I said I'd be patient but I'm getting antsy lol