Dealing with Dinos

cmac330

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Not the most scientific approach but I tried to be detailed in how I am dealing with this.

Tank stats:
36" x 24" x 22" with external overflow with custom acrylic sump providing a total of 83g of water
Reef Octopus 110SSS
2 MP40W QD one running constant at 60% the other running at 40% on long wave
1 Vectra M1 running at 45%
~40lbs live rock loose stacked in display (Dead Rock 2.5 months ago)
1 8"x8"x4" Marine pure block pre-seeded for 6 months in established tank
Calcium 410-430
Alkalinity 8.4-8.8
Magnesium 1350-1380
Temp 76.5-77.5
I have Dinos so NO3 and PO4 are undetectable at the moment using salifert and hannah respectively
Salinity 34ppt at start have slowly dropped to 32ppt on hannah
Plumbing is schedule 40 PVC
6 bulb ATI Sunpower with 4 blue plus run 9 hours a day 1 true actinic and 1 purple plus run 4 hours a day
Tank is barebottom

Tank inhabitants:
2x Bubble tip anemones
1x SSC acro
1x Pocillipora
3x Chalice various sp.
2x Acan lord
1x Montipora cap
Fire shrimp
Cleaner shrimp
Blue leg hermits
Powder blue tang
1 occ. clown and 1 perc
2 azure damsels

Quick background: tank was setup using established inhabitants from another tank, had small cycle in which the tank was a phyto factory, used water changes to clear this out. Nitrates never reached above 3 since setup. Some hair algae grew on the rocks right before the dinos, this seems to be where the dinos preferred to grow first. Dinos have grown on all surfaces now including the glass. The tank does get some sunlight but the areas of the tank with this do not seem any worse.

Assumptions I am holding true in developing my plan of attack:
1) Nothing good happens quickly in this hobby
2) None of the tanks inhabitants have shown negative effects from when dinos appeared in the tank, indicating no toxicity (I have another tank I could transfer inhabitants to if this appears to change)
3) Dinos keep the NO3 and PO4 down meaning water changes for export of these nutrients need not occur
4) This is the big one: An explosion of growth of an invasive organism in an environment is due to a selection event. Either it is selected for by an abundance of a resource or against by a lack of a predator/barrier to reproduction.
5) Simple and single celled organisms generally have less complex relationships with their environments. This is to say that when conditions are favorable they adapt quickly and multiply rapidly. (for example: nitrifying bacteria populate a tank in days, coralline algae months with more specific needs)
6) We try to achieve a balance in our tanks in months similar to what has taken millions of years to achieve in nature.
7) Natural is not necessarily best.
8) We try to maintain stable tanks for two reasons, it lowers the number of variables and allows inhabitants to adjust habits for increased survival.
9) Dinos appear in both new and established aquaria, indicating that their presence being induced as part of a cycle is unlikely.
10) I have seen several people report (and my experience seems to agree with this) that water changes seem to induce blooms most notably in tanks that have successfully fought off dinos in their tank. If this occurs with water changes but not with top-off, coupled with the fact that most report no issues with their RO/DI, it leads me to believe that dinos are growth may be aided by a particular trace element.

Thoughts on carbon dosing and UV sterilizers:
Both are proven tools in the reef keeping hobby. If I believed that I had a more toxic form of dinos a UV would've been on my tank a couple weeks ago. I think carbon dosing is great in situations where one wants to generate extreme coral growth in systems where traditional nutrient export (skimmers, livestock, live rock, water changes) fail to keep up (situations perhaps where feeding is heavy in an sps system). I however have not had issues in the past of keeping nutrients down with the knowledge I now have. I feel that carbon dosing is not always exact in which bacteria it selects for, and when you select for something it also means something is being selected against. This being the case it makes me uneasy as I feel if something were to go wrong with the dosing schedule that unintended consequences could occur very quickly by an imbalance in the system as bacteria generational cycles are so quick. Again, it is a proven method, but for my tank and situation it feels like it would make little sense at this point.
UV sterilizers I feel like are not specific enough in their killing of organisms, and it concerns me that I might be killing things I would like to keep in my system. Also this feels like killing a symptom more than treating the cause.
I threw Dino-X and similar products right out, I don't like dosing chemicals as is and since the symbiotic zooaxenthelle in coral are a species of dinoflagelletes I find it hard to believe that this product is very broad spectrum.

Theory: Dinoflagelletes quickly utilize all NO3 and PO4 in the tank but the abundance of these nutrients does not seem to be the limiting factor in their growth. It also seems unlikely that these organisms would be able to outcompete all others for these nutrients without other environmental factors playing a role. It is my belief that some factor is selecting for these organisms that gives them a competitive advantage. Essentially the logic is similar to that used for carbon dosing for algae removal; increasing carbon selects for bacteria that utilize the same food source even though these bacteria are already present in the tank it is the dosing that allows them to take off despite the NO3 and PO4 input having not changed. A similar principle is used for algae turf scrubbers; provide a favorable environment with no change in input of nutrients and competitive forces take over. So this lead me to wonder how to remove the competitive advantage.

Hypothesis: Dinoflagelletes have appeared in my tank due to an imbalance in my tank that favors their growth and if I export the dinoflagelletes from my tank with minimal import, then I will also be removing the growth factor favoring the dinoflagelletes until it once again reaches a stable level at which and the dinoflagelletes are outcompeted for resources.

Method and materials: Using tightly compacted filter floss in an area lit by my refugium light I will be able to daily remove a large population of dinos as they tend to congregate on rough surfaces. My skimmer cup will be emptied on a twice daily basis in order to prevent overflow. Using a micron sock daily after 4 hours of light (seems to be a high point of when the dinos are out on the LR and is convenient with my schedule) I will siphon the display tank into the sock placed in the sump and manually remove as many dinos as possible. Corals are also blown of twice daily with a turkey baster to avoid them being choked out. The only other change from normal care is that the tank will not receive a water change until 1 week after dinos are gone, and that salinity was dropped 2ppt to hopefully slow growth of the dinos just a bit for the sake of the corals.

Variables:
Me- I am spending substantial amounts of time in the tank, this increases the chance of change in the tank if something comes off my gloves or myself.
Socks- I am washing socks every other day as the cost would be a little ridiculous if i used a new one each time. However, this likely increases the chance of a foreign contaminant.
What is siphoned with dinos- It is hard to say what other variables might be changed by the sock, other organisms, organics and inorganics are also likely removed. Other compounds utilized by the dinos other than what is likely in abundance could be removed and could disturb the balance of my tank.

While I believe this process would be just as well served with water changes if my theory were true (assuming water used is more stable in parameters than existing water in regards to the growth factor), my belief is that large population of dinoflagelletes would give them a competitive advantage and would take substantially longer lose out. My goal here is to choke them out and then return my tank to an appropriate balance.

I also believe that a UV sterilizer in conjunction with massive/frequent water changes could achieve the same result, I am just not high on UV sterilization as I am just unsure of what all effects it may have on organisms in my water column. I understand there is similar risk in what I am doing I just feel as though it is slightly more discriminatory.
 
Quite the write up. I had dinos when my tank was much younger. Basically... I removed as much of it as i could manually and stopped water changes. Water changes feed these monsters. I then blacked out my tank for 48 hours, no lights, covered with large blanket. Afterwards, I ran only actinic lights for 24 hours, then inspected and saw a few lingering areas. Killed the lights again and covered for another 24 hours. Ran just actinics again for 24 hours and inspected one more time. When the coast was clear I went back to my regular light schedule and that was that.
 
there is a few things Id change up, just my take only because I think making the approach as simple as possible is the best bet, reducing variables.

-the cause of all dino infestations is simple non quarantine of marine substrates or fish (threads exist showing macro detail of fish vectoring dinos on their slime coats) there is no tank param or deficiency or accumulation that can cause them if the genus/species hasn't been directly microscopically imported. To me this saves the headache of one chasing preventative tank params, there are none.

-what you have mentioned about UV is a fine use of time, ive collected UV good outcomes on my dino cure threads, they are a valid use of time and will not change your reef tank whether used or not used outside the scope of this invasion, in fact they might have been a decent preventative for you here, but not always.

-the direct manual siphoning removal you are doing is wise, im not with the current accepted mode of no water changes and leaving the invasive mass in place, im for removing a community of offenders from their communal support webs as you are doing. repeat work, for having let it get in.

-any treatment you are considering works better as a preventative vs the mass remover. additive X for example added to a cleaned tank is amplified against the target vs dumping X in the tank while a bunch of mass is there, providing cover and feed and all kinds of help to the others within the mass web. if your tank was mine Id have UV sized for a pond, not an aquarium, and id be choosing doser X among the items listed in dino cure threads along with tank blackout, a triple assault considering the nature of dino invasions in large tanks. Any method you are considering applying has about a 20% chance of working, 80% of the time dino invasions dictate their own timelines regardless of action taken

also we need tank pics, a good 40% of dino invasions are cyano misIDd
 
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I will try to get pics up ASAP, but it is a bit of a hassle sometimes getting them to load. I can assure you they are in fact dinos. I would like to again mention that I see UV as a reliable , and likely best, method for extinguishing dinos. UV is a proven piece of equipment and has shown time and again to have positive results. However, on my display tanks I choose not to run them as I try to run as simple a setup as possible. I tend to find that most tank crashes are the result of either human error or equipment failure. Since I do not know exactly what the UV selects for I tend not to like running one, it is a stupid personal prejudice but it is one I have (important note my QT does have one).

I would also like to point out that each specimen came from my other display tank having been in there for 6+ months and the other has had no new additions in 2+ months. The main display also is free of dinoflagelletes. Rock was dead and there is no sand. My belief is that the dinoflagelletes did enter the system via a livestock addition, however, I do believe that there is some variable driving their growth and competitive advantage. This is similar to how many who don't use QT on their fish can still appear ich free until some other stressor induces an outbreak. (**Important** I made a mistake moving livestock over to the new tank without dip/qt, more proof that every tank is different)

It is also important to note that none of my specimens in this tank have had any ill effects and all seem to be thriving. As such I see no reason to induce stress in the form of a blackout (yes they can survive it but that does not make it healthy for them). The second anything begins to appear stressed, each specimen will be moved to quarantine and the tank will undergo a full blackout and UV treatment.

The dinos will in fact dictate their own timeline as you indicated, but I feel like removing water changes (something shown time and again to stimulate dino growth) will have a shortening affect on the outbreaks lifespan. The manual removal process should have an effect similar to removing macro algae in a refugium if my theory is correct (again it could very well be wrong) as it keeps the dinos from releasing nutrients back into the water upon decay.

All these things said, I do not believe that my way is the most effective removal and know that there are proven methods available for dealing with outbreaks. However, I also understand that not all tanks are the same and that there are multiple species of dinos. My goal here is to address the cause as currently my only symptom is a tank that is aesthetically unpleasing. My goal in posting this is to simply provide a different perspective on dealing with these organisms to perhaps provide more information to the collective community, because even if I am wrong something can still be learned.

To anyone trying to deal with dinos, I strongly recommend following brandon429's advice as the information is solid, logical and proven.
 
Some pics from last week, can't remember is this was before or after a siphon. Will try to get better when I am home

image.jpeg


image.jpeg
 
they look like some calothrix posts we've had but agreed up close it could be dinos too. at least this is all concentrated on the rocks and not cast about.

right off the bat if that was my tank id have the floor siphoned clean, the rocks lifted out and sprayed with peroxide simply because there's real estate room 99% to do that with no corals or benthics in the way, and its implicated in lots of cures too. nothing is much above 20%, but you have unique access variables here lots of tanks don't have, so that your battles outside the aquarium directly on the target can give you an upper hand

its the stacked, aged sps tanks in place above filthy sandbeds that are the harder challenge, your whole rock surface could be made clean of this in one hour, then install the preventatives in place, possibly repeat the rinse and treat 2x more and I bet you have an easy win, this is least scary looking of the last 10 dinos posts. im only musing different options based on pics your original plan is fine and much the same, minus doser X :)
 
I suppose it could be calothrix, but I am not sure as this would be new to me.

Looks like I am going to have to get my hands on a microscope.
 
look at that seeming cyano component too, these rascals may come one on top of another :) as little competing mats of junk~

you do have the stringiness factor of previous dino pics, and then theres that little red hue added component...nbd just checking out those nice detail pics. both of those invaders belongs on the natural reef, and grazers have adapted for them, we're just missing. I do think you have an easier task than other tanks being so clean. the way I arrived at the 20% efficacy rate is because anytime someone takes a cure that worked in their tank, and starts a thread beconing dino tanks to test, 20% will respond to that method and 80% will simply not.
 
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I had snotty brown dinos in a 38 g sps tank with undetectable levels of nitrates and phosphates. IMO, my PO4 and NO3 were out of balance, i.e. phosphates too high, which allowed the dinos to out compete the sps in the tank for the small amount of available nutrients. I began dosing potassium nitrate on January 1st. Within two days, 90 percent of the dinos were gone. Three months later, they are all gone and the starved sps that survived are thriving, along with new additions.
 
So I twice filtered contaminated water through a paper towel into a cup and let it sit. This morning there was a reassembled mass, leading me to believe it is indeed dinos.
 
It's time to attack :) first external scrub and peroxide blast is my first go, acting on target not the water as first amphibious assault wave
 

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