Dehumidifier or Air Conditioner

[ricwilli]

I'm having a big problem in the basement with moisture. My kids play all the time down there and I'm affriad that if I do not do anything soon, that I will start getting mold. Everything starts to sweat from the copper pipes to the floor. Sometimes the papers that I have stored down there feel wet.
I have my 65 gallon sump, 2x50 gallon drum of water (ro/di & salt water) and a 50 gallon frag tank all in the basement.
My question is, which is better for the job of keeping moisture down? A dehumidifier or an AC?
Another question and concern that I have is, that some of the sweat from the copper pipes drip into the sump. Should I be concern of this? I try to wipe down the pipes as much as I can.

 

[teesquare]

They really are the same thing. If you examine a typical de-humidifier and compare it to an air conditioner - they both use a compressor and coils to accomplish their task.
So - for the money - get the air conditioner.

As for the condensation fromt he copper coil - it should NOT be allowed to drip into your sump. Possible copper - yes, but I would be as concerned about other things in that water which have been pulled out of the air - that you cannot test for.
Hope this helps!

T

 

[ReefRunner]

They really are the same thing. If you examine a typical de-humidifier and compare it to an air conditioner - they both use a compressor and coils to accomplish their task.
So - for the money - get the air conditioner.

As for the condensation fromt he copper coil - it should NOT be allowed to drip into your sump. Possible copper - yes, but I would be as concerned about other things in that water which have been pulled out of the air - that you cannot test for.
Hope this helps!

T

I totally agree. I have a fish room that houses the back side of my 280, my sump, refugium and frag tank. I am in Florida so it is humid most of the year anyway. I have a wall AC unit in the room and it keeps the tank cool plus pulls off tons of moisture.

And I agree about not letting the condensation from the copper pipe drip into the sump. I would be primarily concerned about whether there is any copper in that water.


Robin

 

[mfinn]

I would get the dehumidifer.
Sounds like there is more of a humidity problem than a heat problem.
Also there is one thing you can do to stop the copper pipes from sweating.
You can insulate them. Go to your local Home Depot and look for the flexable pipe insulation. Comes in 6' long pieces.
Use duct tape to seal all joints. If you get a total seal around the copper pipes along the total lenght, they will not sweat.

 

[roscoe]

I'm hoping I don't have to get either or. I always have my window cracked open all year long where my DT is and I also keep my garage door opened about 6'' where my sump and all the other reef goodies are to help with humidity and heat issue. So far so good.

 

[RBursek]

Ricwill,
first insulate your cold water pipes, second, get covers for your water storage containers, third, I do not know where you live but a dehumidafier will pull the moisture out all year long if needed, but it adds some heat into the area it is in because it does not vent to the out doors. An AC unit may not beable to be used in the winter time, but when it is running it puts the heat from the unit to the out doors.

 

[ricwilli]

Thanks everyone for the replies..... I will start by insulating the pipes. I do have the lids for the 55 gallon drums but never put them on cause I thought that the water needed air for it not to go bad. Is this correct? I do have a maxi jet running in them.
I was also thinking of installing a ventilating fan with a humidistat so that it only turns on when it needs too.

 

[RBursek]

On the salt mix tank you only need to keep it mixing and uncovered for the first 12-24hrs of making the salt water. on the RO/DI tank it is better to keep it covered and un mixing because it is so pure and lacks any ions it will "grab" them out of the air, cat litter box near one is bad news, it will pick up the amonia.

 

[ricwilli]

OK, I will cover the drums. What do you think about a ventilating fan?

 

[RBursek]

If you vent air out you have to replace it with new air from the ouside, so without knowing where you live and your climate I can not comment. I would do the basics first insulate your cold water pipes and cover your water containers and clear covers on some of your tanks if possible.

 

[ricwilli]

Thanks Bob for your help. I will start on your suggestions asap. I will keep you up to date. By the way, I live in 07033, NJ.

 

[lkjr409]

+1 for dehumidifer...I have the flow tapped into my basement sump pump (that handles water from the basement shower, sink, RO water run off, etc.) so I never have to empty it. During winter when the house heater is running a lot and moisture is low it doesn't run much ...but now that I havent run heat or ac for several months its working hard...I live close to you - DE...Most newer ones run efficiently even at low temps (the old ones would freeze up).

 

[RBursek]

Living in NJ then I would opt for a dehumidifier, because durring the heating season if you have a return air duct in that area it will move the humidity to the whole house which is helpful, also I am assuming you may have central AC that will help in the summer when it is on because it will pull the humidity out, then a dehumidifier can be set to take care of the extra and pring and fall.

 

[ricwilli]

I don't have a return in the basement but I might be able to tap into the one on the first floor. Wouldn't the humidity rust the vents? That is the last thing I need to happen.

 

[mfinn]

I haven't ever heard of anyone complaining that their ac vents are rusting. Most older ones are made from galvanized steel and are not going to be prone to rust.

 

[RBursek]

Never seen it happen, If your furnace is in the basement you should beable to tap in on it, the duct work usually runs for a distance in the basement, but not seening your home I am just guessing.

 

[_Alex_]

Agree fully. Duct Work is galvanized to prevent rust and corrosion because of the humidity it does pull. If your furnace is in the basement it should be fairly easy to tap into your return to pull that humidity out. But you will need to bring fresh air back in.

Never seen it happen, If your furnace is in the basement you should beable to tap in on it, the duct work usually runs for a distance in the basement, but not seening your home I am just guessing.

 

[RBursek]

To return air to the basement again depending on how your house is layed out, the return air can just go back down via the stairway, if there is a door on it, cutting out part of the door and install a vent grill, can get them in wood. Cut the basement door shorter works too.

 

[ricwilli]

OK, that is good to know about the ducts not rusting. But, I've been to some peoples houses and I could see some brown looking stuff on the air ducts. My furnace is in the attic and the return is on the second floor and it runs down to the first floor all the way down to the floor. Now that I think about it, I dont think that the return going down to the first floor has a duct to the furnace. The return air runs up in between the joists and sheetrock. Do you think that might be a problem with the humidity? I really don't want to make a hole on the door, but it is an option. I'm actually thinking that this whole humidity thing going through the vents might have its advantages. My daughter suffers from eczema in dry climates, so distributing it through out the house might be a very good idea.

 

[_Alex_]

If there is to much moisture constantly sitting in the ducts it will create mold. The brown stuff you are seeing is most likely years of dust collecting up. people should have ducts cleaned every few years, but most never do or think about it.

Also a thought on return they make fans that will go in top corner of door ways that - are fairly small and pull a lot of air. Another thought would be simply cut whole above door and wire in a small fan to pull air in. Then cover it with a vent.