Designing a manifold

[Be102]

Curious what people used for connections and valves and all that fun stuff for the plumbing. I am looking to make it so I can run a few different connections off the manifold. Just unsure what I use for quick connects and all that.. What type of glue is used? Basically I am clueless..

 

[Ty Hamatake]

I used PVC pipes with the linked glue
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Christy-s-8-fl-oz-PVC-Pipe-Cement-RH-RHBV-HP/100151698
As far as what vales to use, I would just use regular ball valves on anything that you want to simply turn on and off. For pipes requires fine tuning (overflow drain etc), I would use gate valves. They are far more expensive and are a lot bigger, but SO worth it. I went cheap and used a ball valve on my drain and have regretted it ever since.

 

[Pongo]

Clear PVC cleaner, Clear PVC cement.
Sketch out what you want, basic layout, how many valves and so forth. Plan for the future possibilities.
Measure once, twice, three times the charm.
Make a dry fit mock up of the plumbing and see if it fits. Adjust plan as necessary.

My first effort was my current tank. It took me 2 tries to get what I wanted.
I ended up with 3 gate valves 1/2 x 1/2 inch slip fit.
I used reducing Ts 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2.

I used clear silicone tubing from the pump to the manifold.
I put a true union ball valve last so I could shut off back flow and remove the whole thing if needed.

Finished effort was this:



I'm still working on the refugium parts, so one gate valve will be used for that.
The other 2 are for Spyglass reactors, but I don't need to run them right now.
There's a million ways to do this.
Search the intarwebs and you'll get lots of ideas.

 

[Be102]

I used PVC pipes with the linked glue
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Christy-s-8-fl-oz-PVC-Pipe-Cement-RH-RHBV-HP/100151698
As far as what vales to use, I would just use regular ball valves on anything that you want to simply turn on and off. For pipes requires fine tuning (overflow drain etc), I would use gate valves. They are far more expensive and are a lot bigger, but SO worth it. I went cheap and used a ball valve on my drain and have regretted it ever since.

Thanks, I needed this. I guess I was confused if I should just go with true union balll valves or use a gate valve. Do you have any recommendations for sizing for everything? Did you say you used the gate valve on the Overflow > sump line?

 

[Be102]

Clear PVC cleaner, Clear PVC cement.
Sketch out what you want, basic layout, how many valves and so forth. Plan for the future possibilities.
Measure once, twice, three times the charm.
Make a dry fit mock up of the plumbing and see if it fits. Adjust plan as necessary.

My first effort was my current tank. It took me 2 tries to get what I wanted.
I ended up with 3 gate valves 1/2 x 1/2 inch slip fit.
I used reducing Ts 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2.

I used clear silicone tubing from the pump to the manifold.
I put a true union ball valve last so I could shut off back flow and remove the whole thing if needed.

Finished effort was this:



I'm still working on the refugium parts, so one gate valve will be used for that.
The other 2 are for Spyglass reactors, but I don't need to run them right now.

This looks really nice, Love the little collection of (gate?) valves. The flex pvc makes it seem like it would be very easy to work with.

I am thinking of running my refugium off of my return pump as well... but still am not sure really.

 

[Salty1962]

I used regular Sch 40 pvc from Lowes and painted gray to match my other plumbing. I used unions on mine because I don't feel you need that precise with a manifold. I used black tubing so algae wouldn't clog up my tubing. I don't have a full sump pic but you get the idea.

 

[Be102]

I used regular Sch 40 pvc from Lowes and painted gray to match my other plumbing. I used unions on mine because I don't feel you need that precise with a manifold. I used black tubing so algae wouldn't clog up my tubing. I don't have a full sump pic but you get the idea.

Which sump design do you think will work better?

 

[Salty1962]

Which sump design do you think will work better?

What design are you speaking of, the gate valves vs unions?

 

[Be102]

What design are you speaking of, the gate valves vs unions?

Of course the picture didn't upload..

 

[Salty1962]

I think they are both good. It mainly rests on the size of your skimmer and return pumps. I would also put my fuge before my return pump section, gives the macro, mangroves, etc time to cleanup some of the No3 and Po4 from your DT.

 

[Be102]

I think they are both good. It mainly rests on the size of your skimmer and return pumps. I would also put my fuge before my return pump section, gives the macro, mangroves, etc time to cleanup some of the No3 and Po4 from your DT.

Great, I was also trying to decide if I wanted it before or not.. I guess this would cut off the need of it needing to be off the return manifold, correct? Should I have a high water level or what should I do? in the fuge section.

 

[Salty1962]

I put one of my feeds into my fuge area for circulation. I didn't want to have another pump to mess with. As far as your levels in the fuge, you need to turn off your return pump and see what level you have in your sump. Place a marker of some sort on the water level and never exceed that level so your sump won't over flow if you lose power. Then setup your ATO to keep the levels up where they need to be. You'll really like the sump, it helps out keeping things balanced. LMK if I can help more.

 

[Scott.h]

In my opinion manifolds are generally utilized for bigger systems. Under your tank it's going to be pretty hard with space to deal with the extra plumbing. If you make a sump with fuge, ..channel it so the water flows through. Return pump at the end. At this point the only thing that you would run extra with the manifold would be a protein skimmer and maybe the GFO reactor correct? Don't overthink it. Doesn't have to be that complicated

 

[JBradford]

I also use clear pvc primer and clear glue. No need to mess up your nice plumbing with purple primer all over it.

Regular Lowe's sch 40 pvc pipe and fittings. Unions are your friends.

ACE hardware, if you have one, has must better valves than Lowes. I use gate valve on all my manifold outlets for fine tuning abilities. as well as a ball valve to shut off the entire manifold.

 

[Scott.h]

Defiantly use gate valves. I used all pvc ball valves. They suck, every one right from day one. I have to use channel locks to move the levers and they are very restrictive even wide open.

 

[wsalazar01]

Here's mine

 

[Kramer]

I'm currently working on my plumbing. Just put this one together the other day. 3/4 pvc with 3 cepex valves and unions on either side (just in case).

 

[dbl]

I would suggest gate valves for the manifold outlets for more precise control. Another suggestion is, if you have room, is to put a ball valve at the beginning of the manifold. This is not necessary but it's convenient if you want to remove the manifold for maintenance or alterations. I circled what I'm referring to in the picture of mine below.

As I said, not needed, just a suggestion.

 

[Ty Hamatake]

Thanks, I needed this. I guess I was confused if I should just go with true union balll valves or use a gate valve. Do you have any recommendations for sizing for everything? Did you say you used the gate valve on the Overflow > sump line?

Wow man, sorry. I didn't even noticed the questions. I'm sure they've been answered in some form already, but here are mine. I am currently running a 750 GPH return with a 1" overflow drain and actually have to dial the drain line back. Depends on the size of your return pump rating, but 1" is usually sufficient for an overflow. My return line is 3/4", again usually good for most applications. Right now I have a ball valve on my overflow. Your overflow should be rated at or above what your return pump is rated for. This makes it easier by being able to max out your return and making the adjustments on with your overflow drain valve instead of trying to match the two to eachother. Either way I'd suggest you use a gate valve. I have to resort to knocking on the lever in an attempt to make minor adjustments instead of simply turning the knob on a gate.

One more thing. +1 on the quick disconnects at the beginning of each line. It makes removing them for maintenance a ton easier.

 

[Be102]

I'm currently working on my plumbing. Just put this one together the other day. 3/4 pvc with 3 cepex valves and unions on either side (just in case).

Exactly what I was looking for.. colors and everything..send it my way