Designing QT system(fish only)

[taylorjonl]

I have figured out what my tank and stand will look like, now I need to figure out my QT process. Right now I am only interested in my fish QT, later on I will figure out my coral/invert QT system. So far I am thinking of using three 40g breeders, one being split into three sections and acting as a hospital tank, another being my main QT tank, the third being a sump for the main QT tank. Here is what I am thinking:

The top tank is my hospital tank that will use 3 HOB filters using no carbon, the middle tank is my main QT, the bottom is the sump. The Sump will contain a protein skimmer and probably a Marine Pure block along with a return pump.

I plan on using the tank transfer method on all incoming fish but I will use 5g buckets with disposable air stones, after the buckets they will make it into one of the three hospital tanks for some medication, then make it into the main QT tank.

Does this sound reasonable? What does your QT process look like?

 

[cmcoker]

Seems like overkill... Think that setup would work better for maybe a coral/invert quarantine.

First thing is it should be easy to disassemble, so you can sterilize (bleach or vinegar, then dry)
Second, I wouldn't put a sump on one, unless you plan on quarantining multiple large fish at one time. It adds water volume, which is good except you also have to medicate all that water.

I have a 20g with hob filter, heater, thermometer, powerhead.
Some airstones and air pump of I need extra aeration.
Have a few buckets for freshwater dips, medicated bath, etc.
I have abandoned attempts at TTM. Too many lfs clearly have velvet in their systems. While I'm not buying fish that are covered in velvet, if it's in the store I assume the fish has been exposed.

I float sponges for my hob in my display sump, they get popped into the quarantine when I decide to buy a fish. I'll usually set quarantine up a couple days ahead of time, set salinity to what the lfs tells me their system is. I test the bag the fish comes in, adjust salinity as necessary. Float bag for temp acclimation, them plop fish sans bag water into quarantine.

Also, I see what looks like your display in the rendering. Your quarantines should be 10ft or more away from the display. Velvet has been shown to aerosolize and infect tanks less than 10ft away.

Happy reefing!

 

[Crashjack]

I have abandoned attempts at TTM. Too many lfs clearly have velvet in their systems. While I'm not buying fish that are covered in velvet, if it's in the store I assume the fish has been exposed.

If you assume velvet, do you treat prophylacticly or do you just wait?

 

[cmcoker]

If you assume velvet, do you treat prophylacticly or do you just wait?

I have started using copper or CP on all incoming fish. As well as prophylactic praziquantel for flukes. I do wait a few days for fish to eat and adjust to new surroundings, unless it becomes apparent that it's infected

 

[taylorjonl]

First thing is it should be easy to disassemble, so you can sterilize (bleach or vinegar, then dry)

Well, the hospital tank is easy to disassemble, it is the lower two tanks that would be more difficult.

Second, I wouldn't put a sump on one, unless you plan on quarantining multiple large fish at one time. It adds water volume, which is good except you also have to medicate all that water.

I wouldn't be medicating in the QT tank, I figure that is what the hospital tank is for. I am still learning but I thought the QT was for observing the fish, not for medicating. From the few articles I read the QT tank should be a semi-stable tank that is ready at any time for the largest fish you have. This is why I put a sump on it.

I float sponges for my hob in my display sump, they get popped into the quarantine when I decide to buy a fish. I'll usually set quarantine up a couple days ahead of time, set salinity to what the lfs tells me their system is. I test the bag the fish comes in, adjust salinity as necessary. Float bag for temp acclimation, them plop fish sans bag water into quarantine.

The HOB filters have sponges so I could seed them before use.

Also, I see what looks like your display in the rendering. Your quarantines should be 10ft or more away from the display. Velvet has been shown to aerosolize and infect tanks less than 10ft away.

It is impossible for me to move it farther. The best I could do is add a wall and a fart fan into the outside world, which is not hard, it is on the outer wall. I have limited space...

 

[taylorjonl]

Also, I see what looks like your display in the rendering. Your quarantines should be 10ft or more away from the display. Velvet has been shown to aerosolize and infect tanks less than 10ft away.

If velvet can aerosolize does that mean you have to have your coral/invert frag QT system away from your fish QT? Can the coral/invert frag QT be within 10 feet of the display? Trying to find a way to make this work.