DI Bypass

blue736

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Hello,

I want to add a bypass. I got a couple of valves to do this, but I would like to simplify if possible.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1315851647.213715.jpg


The tee connects to my waste line. The tank valve + tee left side is the IN from my membrane. The right side goes to my DI stages.

Could I remove the second valve and flip upside down? Would water run down the tee and not straight w/o the second valve?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1315851690.768784.jpg


Thanks for any help.


/blue736
 
You mention "tank valve" so I assume you have a pressure tank/drinking water system?

If so, you do not want to use the stored RO water in the tank to make DI with, it will have evidence of TDS creep and will exhaust your DI resin faster. You want to feed the DI straight from the RO membrane itself without the pressure tank so you get the most pure water without TDS creep that has accumulated in the pressure tank.

A DI bypass is simply a tee, check valve and ball valve, thats it. You install the straight run of the tee in the line between your RO membrane and the pressure tank. Next install the check valve on the pressure tank side of the tee. The side leg of the tee then goes to your DI filter and you can install the ball valve either before the DI so the canister is not always under pressure or after the DI so the DI stays wet.

I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the pieces to the waste line and the In side of your membrane, they have nothing to do with DI production.

If you are trying to make a flush kit I wouldn't waste your money, most reputable vendors don't even sell them as they don't really do anything other than give you a warm fuzzy feeling. If, and only IF you used a flush valve from day one, and used it EVERY time you start and stop your membrane religously then it may have benefit but for most of us its worthless since we make water automatically with an ASOV, and a float valve or float switches and you are not always there when it starts and stops.
 
Last edited:
I have a RO tank, but I was just referring to the valve with the tee screwed into it (in pic). I am taking water from the RO membrane and feeding it to the left side of the pictured setup. If I open the tank valve (and close second valve), then it will go to the second tee, which will be tied into my waste water line. I am setting up a solution to flush my new filters/membrane without having to disassemble the line going to the DI canisters. That and to flush my membrane every time I use it. I have found with a TDS sensor (inline) that my TDS creeps some, then I open up to flush for awhile. Afterwards, my TDS output is lower. IE: was 2 TDS before flush, then 0-1 after.
 
As I described before, place the tee and check valve in the line. I did this and stubbed the line out so I can use it for a TDS test point, a flush point or to use the RO only water for filling containers for othe uses.

If you are wanting a flush valve with a bypass talk to Russ as www.buckeyefieldsupply.com . His Premium units come with a DI bypass standard and he can probably help you out.
 

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