DI consumption

[GaryE]

@randyBRS @Bulk Reef Supply

Does this appear to be the right consumption rate for 30 gallons with an input TDS of 4 ?

 

[kschweer]

Are you on well water? If so it’s likely you have high co2 levels in your source water. High co2 depletes DI resin very quickly.

 

[GaryE]

Are you on well water? If so it’s likely you have high co2 levels in your source water. High co2 depletes DI resin very quickly.

I am. I guess I should do an icp test.

 

[Shirak]

Do you have a pH meter? Can check for CO2 with it.

 

[GaryE]

I do not.

 

[kschweer]

I am. I guess I should do an icp test.

Do you have a pH meter? Can check for CO2 with it.

A pH meter would be cheaper and do just as good of a job. But I would say with pretty good certainty this is your issue. You will have to set up a system to “degas” your source water. Basically run water through all stages but di into a container, use an air pump and air stone in the water for a day or so and then a small pump to send the degassed water through your di.

 

[GaryE]

Yeah, I'd like to do that, if I had space for it... I'll have to get creative.

 

[Bulk Reef Supply Verified Sponsor]

Like others have mentioned, DI consumption can be greatly affected by CO2 in the water. A de-gassing method can certainly be used, but is a little more complicated and takes up some extra space. What I usually suggest for those with high CO2 issues is running three DI canisters and use the single bed resins (Cation > Anion > Mixed Bed).

CO2 will exhaust the Anion resin and with your current setup, you have to replace the whole mixed bed even though your cation resin is likely still 95% good. By separating out the cation and anion resins, you can change only what is exhausted, which is MUCH more efficient in cases of high CO2 (if you determine that to be the issue).

The good news is that if you decide to go this route, you'd just have to add one additional canister to your system.

Ryan's video HERE is a great explanation as well.

 

[GaryE]

Like others have mentioned, DI consumption can be greatly affected by CO2 in the water. A de-gassing method can certainly be used, but is a little more complicated and takes up some extra space. What I usually suggest for those with high CO2 issues is running three DI canisters and use the single bed resins (Cation > Anion > Mixed Bed).

CO2 will exhaust the Anion resin and with your current setup, you have to replace the whole mixed bed even though your cation resin is likely still 95% good. By separating out the cation and anion resins, you can change only what is exhausted, which is MUCH more efficient in cases of high CO2 (if you determine that to be the issue).

The good news is that if you decide to go this route, you'd just have to add one additional canister to your system.

Ryan's video HERE is a great explanation as well.

I'm thinking of doing this method once the resin I have now is depleted completely. Seems to be about the simplest and cheapest method, considering I'd have to build a platform above my water heater to store another Brute and purchase another pump and another Brute Can. With what I'd have to buy for the degas method, I'd be well above the cost of another canister.

The only other question I have is when using a PH meter to test for high CO2, how do I test ?

 

[Bulk Reef Supply Verified Sponsor]

I'm thinking of doing this method once the resin I have now is depleted completely. Seems to be about the simplest and cheapest method, considering I'd have to build a platform above my water heater to store another Brute and purchase another pump and another Brute Can. With what I'd have to buy for the degas method, I'd be well above the cost of another canister.

The only other question I have is when using a PH meter to test for high CO2, how do I test ?

Your best bet is going to be to use a CO2 test kit, but like the degassing station, it's usually going to be more cost effective to just assume that is your issue and add the additional canister vs buying a CO2 test kit. Even if CO2 isn't your issue (which I do believe it is), the Pro Series resin will still save you money in the long run by running the separate DI resins instead of the mixed bed.