DI Resin - How many gallons?

[AJsTank]

I'm dripping about 8 gallons a day into my system directly from my RODI. I'm burning through 2 DI Resin cartridges in 45 days, which is roughly 360 gallons. I don't use this one for water changes.

Incoming TDS is about 90, TDS before the filters is around 10 and outgoing is 0.

Am I about right? It just seems like I'm burning through it really fast. The 6 stage is from BRS with the color changing normal DI Resin and it's only 8 months old.

How many gallons are you guys using to burn through 1 cartridge?

 

[StikHedRon]

I get about 150 gals out of my BRS DI resin. But I also use a BRS membrane which is probably 97% rejection rate. Been thinking about going to the spectrapure membrane that is 99% rejection rate hoping that will help me get more out of my DI resin.

 

[AJsTank]

I get about 150 gals out of my BRS DI resin. But I also use a BRS membrane which is probably 97% rejection rate. Been thinking about going to the spectrapure membrane that is 99% rejection rate hoping that will help me get more out of my DI resin.

Where do you get that membrane at? DI Resin and GFO is killing me on this 470 gallon SPS system! haha Trying to get the cost down a little.

 

[Mr. Limpid]

I right at were you are about 324 gal, mine looks like sh** but still at 0 TDS. I change it any ways every 6 months.

 

[AZDesertRat]

A RO only TDS of 10 when the tap water TDS is only 90 is a horrible rejection rate, thats only about 89% and it should be 96-98%. A new, more efficient membrane would pay for itself in a couple of months of DI savings. You can just about count on 3000 to 6000 total TDS per pound of DI resin with a properly packed DI cartridge filled with fresh good quality resin and low to no CO2 in the water. A vertical refillable holds about 20 oz so say 3750 to 7500 total TDS. If your TDS going in 10 then that means 375 to 750 gallons is what you can expect out of your current system so you are right on track on the low end.

With a 98% efficient membrane you would see a RO only TDS of less than 2 so the DI life should be many times longer, I get well over 1000 gallons per DI cartridge, my softened tap water TDS is around 560-650 and my RO only TDS is between 2 and 3 as the tap TDS goes up and down and I have the Spectrapure 99% membrane.

With a good membrane bulk resins are not needed. One bad thing about bulk resin is it has a very short shelf life so starts losing its electrical properties even when stored properly once exposed to air or bright lighting. I tried bulk resin but was only getting 150 gallons before the TDS reached 2-3. Now I change the first cartridge at the first signs of anything other than 1 which is about a year and my second DI at a little over 3000 gallons or 3+ years and we do have CO2 present in our water for some reason.

There is a huge difference in membrane and resin qualities and the low initial costs often ends up costing more in the long run since it does not last as long nor work as well.

 

[AJsTank]

A RO only TDS of 10 when the tap water TDS is only 90 is a horrible rejection rate, thats only about 89% and it should be 96-98%. A new, more efficient membrane would pay for itself in a couple of months of DI savings. You can just about count on 3000 to 6000 total TDS per pound of DI resin with a properly packed DI cartridge filled with fresh good quality resin and low to no CO2 in the water. A vertical refillable holds about 20 oz so say 3750 to 7500 total TDS. If your TDS going in 10 then that means 375 to 750 gallons is what you can expect out of your current system so you are right on track on the low end.

With a 98% efficient membrane you would see a RO only TDS of less than 2 so the DI life should be many times longer, I get well over 1000 gallons per DI cartridge, my softened tap water TDS is around 560-650 and my RO only TDS is between 2 and 3 as the tap TDS goes up and down and I have the Spectrapure 99% membrane.

With a good membrane bulk resins are not needed. One bad thing about bulk resin is it has a very short shelf life so starts losing its electrical properties even when stored properly once exposed to air or bright lighting. I tried bulk resin but was only getting 150 gallons before the TDS reached 2-3. Now I change the first cartridge at the first signs of anything other than 1 which is about a year and my second DI at a little over 3000 gallons or 3+ years and we do have CO2 present in our water for some reason.

There is a huge difference in membrane and resin qualities and the low initial costs often ends up costing more in the long run since it does not last as long nor work as well.

I see what you're saying. Thanks for the feed back. I'll look at changing my membrane out.

 

[howaboutme]

I'm dripping about 8 gallons a day into my system directly from my RODI...... I don't use this one for water changes.

What does this mean? Are you making RODI continuously drip by drip? You should make RODI in large batches. Making it in small quantities is less efficient and may explain your problem too.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I just caught that too.
RO membranes need to work in long filter runs when possible, make at least 3-5 gallons or more each time then store it in a sealed or capped container such as ATO storage. Constant starts and stops or short cycles lead to TDS creep issues which eats resin like crazy. This is why drinking water pressure tanks are a No No with a RO/DI system, thye cycle each time the pressure drops a pound or two. Each time a RO membrane is shut off, the tap water inside osmoses or is attracted by the treated RO on the other side of the membrane so the first several ounces of RO has a high TDS. TDS creep, every time you start the system. So called flush kits do nothing for this. If you make water manually you can install a DI bypass valve and flush this first bit to the drain watching the TDS then turn it back to the DI once it has dropped to its normal operating level of 98%+/- rejection rate.

If you are spening the money on a better membrane then you will want to protect it better also so go with no larger than a 1 micron sediment filter and carbon block and 0.5 microns is even better for only a couple $$ more. Your membrane and DI will thank you. If you are using the BRS 5 micron filters you ned to know you can see 40 microns with the unaided human eye so 5 microns is still pretty big compared to 1 or 0.5 microns.

 

[AJsTank]

What does this mean? Are you making RODI continuously drip by drip? You should make RODI in large batches. Making it in small quantities is less efficient and may explain your problem too.

I'm evaporating 8 gallons a day out of my system. My 1/4 inch line is coming directly out of my RODI unit, through the ceiling of my basement and up through the 2nd floor and into my sump with a solenoid and float valve. In other words, it never stops dripping. I have to get a dehumidifier all my paint is peeling off everywhere in that room and all my hardware in my doors is starting to rust lol

I've got a meter that tells me how much water I'm making a day and it's about 8 gallons a day.

 

[howaboutme]

I'm evaporating 8 gallons a day out of my system. My 1/4 inch line is coming directly out of my RODI unit, through the ceiling of my basement and up through the 2nd floor and into my sump with a solenoid and float valve. In other words, it never stops dripping. I have to get a dehumidifier all my paint is peeling off everywhere in that room and all my hardware in my doors is starting to rust lol

I've got a meter that tells me how much water I'm making a day and it's about 8 gallons a day.

See above 2 comments. I suspect that's the main culprit.

 

[AZDesertRat]

You need to install a RO/DI ATO storage vessel of some kind, running the RO/DI at only 8 GPD is killing it. That may be the root of your problem.

The membrane is designed to make water at around 75 GPD or 3 gallons per hour and needs that flow rate to flush the accumulated dissolved solids away from the membrane fabric. Choke that down and you don't have the volume or velocity to cleanse the membrane.

Can you better describe exactly what you have and how it is all plumbed?

As an example I have my MaxCap UHE-100 in my climate controlled garage and next to it is a 23 gallon Rubbermaid can the RO/DI goes in to using a solenoid valve and two float switches to control. The float switches are set 12" apart so the ATO storage must drop 11 measured gallons before the RO/DI comes on again. This is usually every other day or so in summer months as I evaporate about 5 gallons a day.
The ATO pulls water from the 23 gallon storage and it travels 35 feet into my family room under the kitchen base cabinets and behind some baseboard to the sump where the UPLC peristaltic pump resides. I have the UPLC set so the sump return section tops off when it drops 1" and this happens several times a day but since it is pulling out of the 23 gallon storage the RO/DI still only runs every two days or so and for a minimum of 11 gallons which it can produce in about 1.5 hours at 95 psi boosted pressure.

 

[AJsTank]

ATO is not an option. I don't have the room near the tank or in the basement. The RODI system is in my basement. It is quite a ways away. Probably a good 100 foot run or longer. The 1/4 inch tubing comes directly out of my RODI and is ran directly into the sump with one of those swamp cooler float valves on it. I have a back up switch with an electronic solenoid valve and float switch that closes the solenoid when the water level raises to a certain point in the sump.

I'm evaporating 8 gallons a day. So the RODI is dripping 8 gallons a day into the sump. It's pretty simple.

 

[howaboutme]

ATO is not an option. I don't have the room near the tank or in the basement. The RODI system is in my basement. It is quite a ways away. Probably a good 100 foot run or longer. The 1/4 inch tubing comes directly out of my RODI and is ran directly into the sump with one of those swamp cooler float valves on it. I have a back up switch with an electronic solenoid valve and float switch that closes the solenoid when the water level raises to a certain point in the sump.

I'm evaporating 8 gallons a day. So the RODI is dripping 8 gallons a day into the sump. It's pretty simple.

If you continue this way, you will get the same problem.

You should run your RODI to a water storage container. Then add a strong pump w/ enough head from your basement to your sump controlled by your ATO. This way you can make RODI in large batches.

 

[AJsTank]

If you continue this way, you will get the same problem.

You should run your RODI to a water storage container. Then add a strong pump w/ enough head from your basement to your sump controlled by your ATO. This way you can make RODI in large batches.

That's what I'm saying, is that I don't have anywhere I can put it. The tank is in the living and there is nowhere to put any type of container under the cabinet. The RODI is in a storage closet built inside a wall. Even if I wanted to put a storage container somewhere, I could not. I guess I will just have to deal with it.

 

[NanaReefer]

I've been dealing with it for 3yrs My unit attaches to my tap & I make water as needed. Which is about 30g's a month. I have no issues with it. Does this ruin my membrane? Not that I've noticed. I change out my resin when I start getting a 001 TDS reading. I've replaced my membrane once in 3+ yrs.

 

[howaboutme]

That's what I'm saying, is that I don't have anywhere I can put it. The tank is in the living and there is nowhere to put any type of container under the cabinet. The RODI is in a storage closet built inside a wall. Even if I wanted to put a storage container somewhere, I could not. I guess I will just have to deal with it.

No, I mean put the container in the basement and run a line from a pump in that container to your sump. A peristaltic pump like the Avast ATO pump will have enough head for it.

 

[AZDesertRat]

That sucks since you will never get better DI life no matter what resin or membrane you have. RO membranes need to run at full tilt when in operation meaning the equivalent of 75 GPD or about 3 GPH unrestricted and for at least 3-5 gallons at a stretch or it will not get flushed and TDS creep will be an issue. You are constantly starting and stopping 24 hrs a dat to make 8 gallons in spurts and the membrane is never flushed. If storage is not an option then at least use two float switches set 3 or 4 inches apart in your sumps return section so the membrane has a chance.You already have the solenoid so hook up two switches on a DC power supply so the system has to drop a few gallons before it starts again. Not ideal since you are still hooked direct but thousands of times better than a float valve with no adjustability between on and off. Your DI and membrane will probably last 10 times as long.

 

[AJsTank]

No, I mean put the container in the basement and run a line from a pump in that container to your sump. A peristaltic pump like the Avast ATO pump will have enough head for it.

You're still not getting it. I have ZERO room to put ANY container of any size in the basement. This RODI system is inside the wall and the wall is built around it. The closet is in, is too small and it's full. The 1/4 inch tubing was ran before the basement was even finished.... It's not an option at all. I wish it were.

 

[AJsTank]

That sucks since you will never get better DI life no matter what resin or membrane you have. RO membranes need to run at full tilt when in operation meaning the equivalent of 75 GPD or about 3 GPH unrestricted and for at least 3-5 gallons at a stretch or it will not get flushed and TDS creep will be an issue. You are constantly starting and stopping 24 hrs a dat to make 8 gallons in spurts and the membrane is never flushed. If storage is not an option then at least use two float switches set 3 or 4 inches apart in your sumps return section so the membrane has a chance.You already have the solenoid so hook up two switches on a DC power supply so the system has to drop a few gallons before it starts again. Not ideal since you are still hooked direct but thousands of times better than a float valve with no adjustability between on and off. Your DI and membrane will probably last 10 times as long.

Hmm... I see what you're saying.. I'll have to play around with it and see if I have enough play to do that. When my pumps shut off, I really don't have a lot of room. Maybe I can make some adjustments up top so that I don't have as much back flow into my sump.

 

[mfief]

Dont trust the color. My color had completely changed but was still getting 0 tds 2 months later I am getting one tds I will be changing my filters now. A friend of mine noticed that he would get his system to run better by changing the sediment filter and carbon blocks ore frequently as well. just my .02