Easy way to de-gas: set up a water container on a stand, tall enough so the the BOTTOM of the degassing container is above the highest level of your RODI storage tank. The pressure from your RODI unit will have no problem filling the degassing chamber at the higher height. Have an air stone in the degassing container and let aerate for a good 24 hours. You’ll be skipping the DI portion of your unit to fill the degassing container. Go straight from the RO to the degas container.
At the bottom of the degassing container, drill a hole and come up with a way to use a mur-lok fitting. I used a mud-lok bulkhead and rubber washer to seal it. You could also do like a 1/2” bulkhead and then a 1/2” to 1/4” reducer to screw in a mur-lok adapter. Whatever works for you.
The next part might be tricky with the aquatic life unit, since I don’t think you can remove any of the stages. With the BRS unit I was able to simply unhook the DI canister and remove it from the bracket. I mounted it low on the stand that is supporting the degassing container. You’ll want a mur-lok valve between the degassing container and the RODI container so that you are able to prevent the flow from one to the other until you have properly degassed. The gravity is plenty to run the degassed RO water through the resin and up to the RODI container.
I also use float valves in both containers so I don’t have to worry about overflowing either container.
This has increased my resin life from like 100 gallons per di cartridge to thousands.
Side note, high CO2 in water doesn’t ONLY happen on well water. I’m on city water and apparently ground CO2 levels here are ridiculous because both my municipal water and even the air around the outside of my house is quite high!