Diatoms/Dinos/Cyano

puffy127

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Tank is about 1.5 years old. Phosphates <=0.03 ppm, Nitrates 2.5 ppm. Started with BRS Ecosaver dry rock, Caribsea Fijipink dry sand. Been battling this nasty brown stuff all over my rocks, sand, glass, pumps, etc. for about 6 months. RODI, TDS 0. Silicates measure 0. IO salt, switched to RC 3 months ago, no difference. Tried chaeto in sump, it stayed alive,but didn't really grow much, GFO, carbon, and now have an algae turf scrubber. Silicates measure 0. I've tried chemiclean in case it was cyano, but didn't really do much. I've also tried dosing h202 for a few weeks (1x a day at 1ml per 10 gal) in case I was dealing with dinos. It clarified my water and kept my glass clean, but didn't do much else. If I stir up the sand bed, it looks great for an hour, then it comes back right away. Seems to be light activated as it gets better at night. Same if I scrub the rocks.

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doesnt look like a traditional dino, more like an algae. Does it get outta controll fluffy fuzzy coton candy?
Btw, what part of the country are you in? Are any of the corals Caribbean?
@twilliard @brandon429
 
East Coast. I just have mainly euphyllia - hammers and frogspawn. A few montis. All frags from other reefers. I used to have snails but they all died, except for 3 tiger conchs. Not sure if my puffers got all the snails or if perhaps i have dinos and they killed all the snails. A few hermits are still alive as well.
 
East Coast. I just have mainly euphyllia - hammers and frogspawn. A few montis. All frags from other reefers. I used to have snails but they all died, except for 3 tiger conchs. Not sure if my puffers got all the snails or if perhaps i have dinos and they killed all the snails. A few hermits are still alive as well.
thanks. Honestly doesnt look like the standard dinos. I tagged two of the experts I know.
I asked location because almost all the truly weird and gnarly invasive forms of dino's were always in the south eastern region of the states, some times along the east coast but rarely and/or had a connection to that area and carribean. There are a few strains of fuzzy algae too down there.
Does it stay low growing like we see in the pics and on the powerhead?
 
Does not appear to be dinoflagellates or spirulina
For h2o2 to be most effective in a tank it should be dosed every 12 hours
It may be an algae but if it comes right back or seems to disappear at night it is possible to be a bacteria.
Without seeing it under a scope it is hard to make assumptions for a treatment plan.

BTW guys I am on a path for a cure to the dreaded dinoflagellates ;) tests are proving successful!
 
twilliard identified them as dinos under the scope. Thanks again for the id.

I'll try dosing h2o2 2x a day for 8 days.
 
twilliard identified them as dinos under the scope. Thanks again for the id.

I'll try dosing h2o2 2x a day for 8 days.
If this doesn't work I will have a solution hopefully by then. I am almost done with this testing.
The best way to beat dinoflagellates is to go right to the DNA (with zero side effects to the tank)
 
Ok, Day 7 of H2O2 dosing 2x day and no improvement. twilliard, are you ready to share your method yet? If not, I may try FL_Reefer's blackout/Dr. Tims waste away and refresh method.
 
If @twilliard says it works i'm sure it does, might just need more time? I was able to get rid of mine with a blackout and zero medications or dosing. I manually removed as much as possible first. Used a large tarp to cover the tank for 48 full hours. Ran only 2 blue actinic lights for the next 24 hours. Saw some lingering dinos, covered with the tarp again for 24 more hours. Back to 2 actinics only for 24 hours, then back to normal lighting schedule. Not saying this is a guaranteed method, just sharing the process that worked for me.
 
Ok, Day 7 of H2O2 dosing 2x day and no improvement. twilliard, are you ready to share your method yet? If not, I may try FL_Reefer's blackout/Dr. Tims waste away and refresh method.
It's always a good try to start with h2o2 :)
My method is young, observations are promising
I still see cell activity under the scope but this is expected.
Reproduction of the dinoflagellates have halted.
125mg of metronidazole per 10 gallons (250mg doses in our 20g) for 3 days.
Now this is just what I used based on information from my wife, nurse and my buddy who's wife is also a nurse in finding this medication.
No losses in the tank
And noticed the patches of GHA are clear now.
I do NOT know the full interactions of this medicine with coral this may take several months.
 
Do you pour the metro straight in or dissolve/mix it with some tank water and then pour it in?
 
1 dose for 3 days or dose 1x day for 3 days? Remove filter socks or keep them on? Keep skimming or turn off skimmer? Anything else? Run carbon and/or water change at the end of the 3 days?
 
I have a mixing plate where I stir it for 24 hours as all the solids do not break down readily.
I dosed every day 250mg in our tank for 3 days
At day 7 I started carbon and water changes (4 gallons a change)
Keep everything in place during this except the carbon and watch your mechanical filtration as these cells will build up in there. Keep them cleaned.
 
Thanks. Why the 4 day wait before carbon and water changes? Just to let the residual metro continue to work?

I plan on starting this after my metro comes in tomorrow. I'll post updates.
 
When I work with anything as a control method I always start with 3 days of treatment.
It took 3 days to start to see cell changes
Once I was comfortable with the results under the microscope then I stopped dosing.

It's all about the reaction to the cell structure

Please remember there is no evidence of long term effects on coral
I am just letting you know what I did for our tank.
This is not a set treatment for dinoflagellates
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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