Diatoms in a 75 gallon reef

[MysticBlue]

Chemi clean is for cyano
Chemi pure and chemi pure elite are just high grade quality carbons. Charcoal.
D

Ya I used both sadly no luck. Should I use a little bit of turbo start?

 

[MysticBlue]

Bump

 

[Uncle99]

Your doing to much to fast, this creates instability in the waters.
Someone posted the high phosphate level and I agree, to high at .8ppm when it should be say 0.03-.1ppm. Phosphate is food and with light can complete its photosynthetic process.

Bring the water chemistry in line, all 8 parameters, then work to reduce the daily flux in those parameters to an absolute minimum. An example would be Alk, no more than .5dkh swing in 24 hours. Salinity should stay pinned at 1.

Maintain these values at all times.

Keep a record of your test results for trending info.

Remove as much as possible by hand, brush off rocks and remove the organics.

When water chemistry is stable, the good guy bacteria you need for clean rocks and white sand can populate quickly over a month or two and in the end, outcompete the pest algaes whether it be diatoms, Cyano, and Dinos.

Provided you keep those parameters stable, they go on their own and because your water chemistry is on-point, do not return.

Maybe that helps a bit.

 

[I never finish anythi]

I have the same problem, what is working for me is I blast them off when lights go out . Working for me

 

[MysticBlue]

Your doing to much to fast, this creates instability in the waters.
Someone posted the high phosphate level and I agree, to high at .8ppm when it should be say 0.03-.1ppm. Phosphate is food and with light can complete its photosynthetic process.

Bring the water chemistry in line, all 8 parameters, then work to reduce the daily flux in those parameters to an absolute minimum. An example would be Alk, no more than .5dkh swing in 24 hours. Salinity should stay pinned at 1.

Maintain these values at all times.

Keep a record of your test results for trending info.

Remove as much as possible by hand, brush off rocks and remove the organics.

When water chemistry is stable, the good guy bacteria you need for clean rocks and white sand can populate quickly over a month or two and in the end, outcompete the pest algaes whether it be diatoms, Cyano, and Dinos.

Provided you keep those parameters stable, they go on their own and because your water chemistry is on-point, do not return.

Maybe that helps a bit.

See my water is stable your assuming it’s not. My water chemistry has been stable since I moved tanks and in my 55 gallon when I had the diatoms my water chemistry was stable then too!!!
Parameters are
Alkalinity 9.2
Calcium 425
Magnesium 1,600
Phosphate .8
Nitrate 10ppm
Temp 78
Salinity 1.025

 

[MysticBlue]

I also wonder if it could be a nutritional thing where there’s to much nutrients in my water? Should I probably upgrade my protein skimmer I have a really small one that’s technically for a 29 gallon but it worked of for the 55 but now that I’m on the 75 I probably should upgrade. What size do I need for a 75?

 

[Uncle99]

See my water is stable your assuming it’s not. My water chemistry has been stable since I moved tanks and in my 55 gallon when I had the diatoms my water chemistry was stable then too!!!
Parameters are
Alkalinity 9.2
Calcium 425
Magnesium 1,600
Phosphate .8
Nitrate 10ppm
Temp 78
Salinity 1.025

Stability is the length of time that those parameters have been maintained with little to no flux in 24 hours.

The .8ppm is just way high, absolutely contributing to your problem.

If you waters were in fact stable and mature, your phosphate would not be .8ppm and pest algae would not be there.

 

[MysticBlue]

The .8ppm is just way high, absolutely contributing to your problem.

If you waters were in fact stable and mature, your phosphate would not be .8ppm and pest algae would not be there.

The other parameters are stable I’m not lying to ya mate. The only thing that’s out of wack is the phosphate and over time it gone further and further down hell just 2 months ago it was at .25 and it’s been going down ever since. Not to mention I have a reef tank that’s over 4 years old that’s fully established and parameters are sound that has phosphate stay at .1 and hair algae everywhere!! That’s pest algae to me.

 

[T-J]

People have given you some solid advice, and every time you come back with "it can't be that" and then throw something else in that you feel would be better (like a new skimmer).
That fact is that you DO NOT have a stable tank. Phosphate is very high. I also don't know how often you're testing, but I'm curious what your daily swings might be for Nitrate, Calcium, Alk and Mag.
You even admit that your 4 year old established tank is being overrun by hair algae. That tank is also not stable.
I suggest looking back at what others have told you and start there. One small step at a time.

 

[Uncle99]

The other parameters are stable I’m not lying to ya mate. The only thing that’s out of wack is the phosphate and over time it gone further and further down hell just 2 months ago it was at .25 and it’s been going down ever since. Not to mention I have a reef tank that’s over 4 years old that’s fully established and parameters are sound that has phosphate stay at .1 and hair algae everywhere!! That’s pest algae to me.

I believe you. I had to ask. Super common.

Phosphate “out of wack” is not good for anything in your tank except fish (and they likely have limits to) no question too much brings poor extension, drab colour, slow growth. Too little brings more the Cyano and Dino’s.

If you can just bring that down, maybe GFO it down, this will bring all parameters simultaneously into check.

Then it’s just a matter of time before those good processors maximize their populations, leaving all else out.

It’s not the only solution, there are many others, depends on what you think will work.

 

[MysticBlue]

People have given you some solid advice, and every time you come back with "it can't be that" and then throw something else in that you feel would be better (like a new skimmer).
That fact is that you DO NOT have a stable tank. Phosphate is very high. I also don't know how often you're testing, but I'm curious what your daily swings might be for Nitrate, Calcium, Alk and Mag.
You even admit that your 4 year old established tank is being overrun by hair algae. That tank is also not stable.
I suggest looking back at what others have told you and start there. One small step at a time.

I’m telling you man you can get upset but everything is stable and established except the phosphates. I understand other people are helping and I would appreciate it if you respect what I say and not try to argue with me. Again thank you for your time.

 

[MysticBlue]

I believe you. I had to ask. Super common.

Phosphate “out of wack” is not good for anything in your tank except fish (and they likely have limits to) no question too much brings poor extension, drab colour, slow growth. Too little brings more the Cyano and Dino’s.

If you can just bring that down, maybe GFO it down, this will bring all parameters simultaneously into check.

Then it’s just a matter of time before those good processors maximize their populations, leaving all else out.

It’s not the only solution, there are many others, depends on what you think will work.

sorry not trying to be feisty it’s just others are saying my parameters aren’t stable but they are. What’s a GFO? I’m not sure I’ve heard of that one. I’m honestly just trying here I’m not an expert but I think I’m managing lol .

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Gfo stands for granular ferris oxide. Aka as rust.
D

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Do a large water change followed by the carbon. Change the carbon every month for 6 months.
Get back to us. Lol.
D

 

[Spare time]

Why is no one talking about silicates? That is what allows diatoms to proliferate. Silica usually enters the tank when di resin begins to be used up (or via dosing)? Phosphate removers often remove silica too. Carbon won't do anything. Chemiclean won't do anything. You need to find the source of silica, stop that, and add a silica remover (such as gfo or phosguard)

 

[T-J]

Why is no one talking about silicates? That is what allows diatoms to proliferate. Silica usually enters the tank when di resin begins to be used up (or via dosing)? Phosphate removers often remove silica too. Carbon won't do anything. Chemiclean won't do anything. You need to find the source of silica, stop that, and add a silica remover (such as gfo or phosguard)

I mentioned it in one of my first comments. Again, like other advice, it's gone ignored.

 

[Andrey Grodno]

I always found it funny to read about problems with diatoms. Because this problem does not and cannot exist. Diatoms exist only in the presence of silicates in the water. Silicates are present in salt because there are plenty of silicates in the ocean. And salt makers are copying the ocean system. And they add silicates. That's why there are always diatoms in your aquarium when you start up. But then the diatoms eat the silicates and disappear on their own. And there are no other options. I tried to create a colony of diatoms in my experimental aquarium, dosed silica gel in huge quantities and...failed. Problems with diatoms can only be during the startup period and never after. Never. If you have diatoms growing for a long time, it's not diatoms.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

 

[MysticBlue]

I mentioned it in one of my first comments. Again, like other advice, it's gone ignored.

No one ignored you I already said I just changed the rodi filters and no
luck.

 

[MysticBlue]

I always found it funny to read about problems with diatoms. Because this problem does not and cannot exist. Diatoms exist only in the presence of silicates in the water. Silicates are present in salt because there are plenty of silicates in the ocean. And salt makers are copying the ocean system. And they add silicates. That's why there are always diatoms in your aquarium when you start up. But then the diatoms eat the silicates and disappear on their own. And there are no other options. I tried to create a colony of diatoms in my experimental aquarium, dosed silica gel in huge quantities and...failed. Problems with diatoms can only be during the startup period and never after. Never. If you have diatoms growing for a long time, it's not diatoms.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Is it possibly the salt I use? I use instant ocean reef crystals I’m not sure if there known for having a lot of silicates.

 

[Uncle99]

Is it possibly the salt I use? I use instant ocean reef crystals I’m not sure if there known for having a lot of silicates.

Doubt the salt has any impact. It’s as good as any salt out their.
If you think it adds to your phosphate, just mix a batch to 1.026 and test.

According to your posts, the only parameter out of range phosphate. GFO is a filter media, Rowaphos for example, run in a reactor, or just a media bag in flow.

Phosphate will bind to this media and over time, lowers phosphate…..your looking at say 0.03ppm to .1ppm.

Id work getting that number in check first before moving onwards to other things.