Did I make my wall too tall?

[Averhoeven]

At the suggestion of an engineer, I have decided to reinforce my I joists and build a pair of supporting walls underneath where my tank is. I measured from the bottom of the joist to the floor and for 104 5/8". I built my wall lying down so that I could get long, perpendicular nails in with the idea that I would raise it into position. It measures 104 5/8 as well, miraculously. However, I start to get a lot of resistance at this point when raising it and it has a way to go still. It's it somehow too tall or should I try really hard to bang it in there? If it is too tall, should I try to just sand down an 1/8th or something? Could even do it just where the joists cross.
Thanks for the help

 

[justin.k.nelson]

If the tank is already filled, looks like you have some sagging already. I'm no expert, but maybe you might need one of those Jack's to realign the joist and then put the braces under.

 

[Maggie321]

Look up the pathagoreum theorem. That is why your wall won't fit. The measurement from 1 corner to the opposite corner is more than your total height. Probably by just a fraction of an inch. But still enough to make it super tight. I would say you could pound it into place.

 

[Larry L]

Agree with @Maggie321 , it's going to be a fraction longer than 104 5/8 on the diagonal (less than a tenth of an inch) but if you measured correctly should be fine when finally in place.

 

[Maggie321]

That diagonal...

 

[Maggie321]

It is also called cosine error. YouTube it!

 

[Awesome Dennis]

Get out the man hammer!

 

[hwntunda]

I suggest putting a level on the undersides of your joists to see if there’s a sag due to the load above. If there is a sag towards the middle I’d recommend removing the load, set your walls while checking level on all wall plains and floor above.

 

[Averhoeven]

The tank isn't filled at the moment and I didn't notice any sag when I test filled a few days ago.
I'll double check my height measurement in the morning and if it's accurate, I'll try to bang it in there. Felt like I was pounding it pretty hard for minimal gain earlier though.

 

[don_chuwish]

Builders bang'em in all the time. If it's definitely the correct height it can be done. But man, be careful with all that wiring!

 

[Redleg]

Look this is super common. Your going to need a sledgehammer and a level. Then your going to beat the living detritus out of that wall. Stop when the level says it is plumb at every stud. Or you can take it apart attach the top and bottom plates then toenail every stud into place.

 

[Maggie321]

Look this is super common. Your going to need a sledgehammer and a level. Then your going to beat the living detritus out of that wall. Stop when the level says it is plumb at every stud. Or you can take it apart attach the top and bottom plates then toenail every stud into place.

If he takes it apart and does every one individually, he will be banginging each one individually...

 

[Redleg]

If he takes it apart and does every one individually, he will be banginging each one individually...

He sure will. That's why it's the second option.[emoji2]

 

[October Sky]

I suggest putting a level on the undersides of your joists to see if there’s a sag due to the load above. If there is a sag towards the middle I’d recommend removing the load, set your walls while checking level on all wall plains and floor above.

Going to want a long level on this measurement. A short level will likely not display the issue on such long boards.

 

[mattgsa]

Having built a few walls, I agree, the best thing to do is get a hammer. Ideally you would have two people, so that way you can knock by ends in at the same time.

 

[Awesome Dennis]

How close are the walls going to the electrical panels?

 

[Erica-Renee]

Get the top in place where you want it...
Shoot a nail into one of the joist.
place a piece of scrap x on the floor next to wall




Hit 2x4 with 20 LB DEMO HAMMER UNTIL in place.

drill and anchor said wall into place once you have it square and plumb with existing walls..

Nail remaining floor joist above to top plate..
ADD Roll of bridging in center of new wall.. being sure to tie it into the other wall

Put plywood on one side of new wall. Nail or screw every 8 inches .

Also you need to add a roll of bridging to the floor joist all the way across. If you do not when then the weight is pushed down it could could the joist to twist . this can make your wall rack to the direction that joist twist. If you do not want to add bridging inside the joist run a 2x4 from one end to the other attaching to the bottom of each joist..



This should take about 15 minutes..

 

[davocean]

Yep, it's taller going in at angle, always requires some love taps, just make sure your floor does not have a hump or anything.

 

[davocean]

If he takes it apart and does every one individually, he will be banginging each one individually...

Yep, and it's a compromised install, wall frame is a lot stronger having bottom and top plate shot straight down into verticals

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

Have been a carpenter for over 40 years and built to many walls and did the same thing some years ago for a 600 gallon tank get a sledge hammer and hit it in .All joist will sag some depending on age of house

 

[Robert Vacchiano]

Have been a carpenter for over 40 years and built to many walls and did the same thing some years ago for a 600 gallon tank get a sledge hammer and hit it in .All joist will sag some depending on age of house