Dino, cyano or? After GHA battle

SuthernReefer

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I recently beat GHA after a long battle and trying every product on the market. The ONE PRODUCT THAT ABSOLUTELY WORKED was reef flux. After a month it was gone and its been about 3 weeks now.

Now Ive got this stuff coming on pretty hard and fast. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I treated it with dinox in the past and knocked it out, but doing so, I also lost about 15 coral and some are still SLOWLY recovering.

If it's dinos, I want to go ahead and knock it out again, but I really hate to risk kill more coral$.

Here are some pics. It looked a little worse, but I just blowed most of it off that was on corals.

I have read really older threads where people said they thought it to be dinos, but later decided it was cyano and detritus mixed.
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I recently beat GHA after a long battle and trying every product on the market. The ONE PRODUCT THAT ABSOLUTELY WORKED was reef flux. After a month it was gone and its been about 3 weeks now.

Now Ive got this stuff coming on pretty hard and fast. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I treated it with dinox in the past and knocked it out, but doing so, I also lost about 15 coral and some are still SLOWLY recovering.

If it's dinos, I want to go ahead and knock it out again, but I really hate to risk kill more coral$.

Here are some pics. It looked a little worse, but I just blowed most of it off that was on corals.

I have read really older threads where people said they thought it to be dinos, but later decided it was cyano and detritus mixed.

Not quite sure what that is but what is your flow like? Do have good flow over the rocks and sand bed?
 
Yes, plenty of flow. Running SLW 30 rated at 3400 gph. This is only 75 gal.
 
If you chemically treat your tank for one problem often you can open the door for another. This is why I try to avoid chemical treatments unless all options have failed.

You need to give us full parameters and what is your current lighting? I would not be surprised if all your nitrates and phosphate are bottomed out now leading to dinos.
 
I recently beat GHA after a long battle and trying every product on the market. The ONE PRODUCT THAT ABSOLUTELY WORKED was reef flux. After a month it was gone and its been about 3 weeks now.

Now Ive got this stuff coming on pretty hard and fast. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but I treated it with dinox in the past and knocked it out, but doing so, I also lost about 15 coral and some are still SLOWLY recovering.

If it's dinos, I want to go ahead and knock it out again, but I really hate to risk kill more coral$.

Here are some pics. It looked a little worse, but I just blowed most of it off that was on corals.

I have read really older threads where people said they thought it to be dinos, but later decided it was cyano and detritus mixed.
20220409_143201.jpg
20220409_142701.jpg
20220409_143146.jpg
20220409_142650.jpg
20220409_143133.jpg
20220409_142642.jpg
20220409_142824.jpg
20220409_142803.jpg
20220409_142713.jpg
20220409_143213.jpg
20220409_142712.jpg
20220327_144220.jpg
20220409_143034.jpg
20220409_143011.jpg
20220409_142839.jpg
Snag a microscope so you can know what your dealing with. I recently had dinos (beat with UV) then cyano, followed by sand dwelling dinos. Wasn’t a fun few months. Anyhow, what’s kept me stable was nitrate/ phos dosing to maintain levels while upping my temperature to 82.5 (slowly) and increasing bacterial diversity with mb7/clean, and dr tims refresh. I committed to not using any unnecessary chemicals and letting my tank recover from the lack of biodiversity. A microscope to properly identify was crucial.
 
If you chemically treat your tank for one problem often you can open the door for another. This is why I try to avoid chemical treatments unless all options have failed.

You need to give us full parameters and what is your current lighting? I would not be surprised if all your nitrates and phosphate are bottomed out now leading to dinos.
Parameters last checked Sunday, April, 3

Alk 8.5-9
Ph 8
Cal 430
Mag 1350
Nitrates 6.5
Phos is .11
actually trying to get it and Nitrates down.
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0

Lighting is 2 Echotech g5 xr15 blues at 8 hours

Running skimmer and uv sterilizer
 
Snag a microscope so you can know what your dealing with. I recently had dinos (beat with UV) then cyano, followed by sand dwelling dinos. Wasn’t a fun few months. Anyhow, what’s kept me stable was nitrate/ phos dosing to maintain levels while upping my temperature to 82.5 (slowly) and increasing bacterial diversity with mb7/clean, and dr tims refresh. I committed to not using any unnecessary chemicals and letting my tank recover from the lack of biodiversity. A microscope to properly identify was crucial.

If these are dinos, they aren't the type that break up into the water column at night I don't believe. I am running uv though, but so far don't seem to be helping.

Whatever this is seems to have originated on sandbed, then gets blown into corners and onto rock work and clings onto everything then continues to grow where it lands.
 
We're the numbers before the last chemical treatment?

Parameters seem fine so an unusual development but doesn't really look like cyano to me. Are you dosing any good bacteria supplement like PNS probio?
 
Its Cyano
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes and things to check that may be causing this include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity this time for 1- days or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Blue which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week period, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control of cyano.
 
If these are dinos, they aren't the type that break up into the water column at night I don't believe. I am running uv though, but so far don't seem to be helping.

Whatever this is seems to have originated on sandbed, then gets blown into corners and onto rock work and clings onto everything then continues to grow where it lands.
Sounds like cyano. Chemiclean will knock it out but be prepared for other issues to pop up after. I’d focus on getting your biodiversity up in the tank. Mb7/clean and good husbandry should knock them back to the point where they are more manageable. I’m at the point where if I have a little patch here and there I just leave it. Eventually it’ll go away
 
Snag a microscope so you can know what your dealing with. I recently had dinos (beat with UV) then cyano, followed by sand dwelling dinos. Wasn’t a fun few months. Anyhow, what’s kept me stable was nitrate/ phos dosing to maintain levels while upping my temperature to 82.5 (slowly) and increasing bacterial diversity with mb7/clean, and dr tims refresh. I committed to not using any unnecessary chemicals and letting my tank recover from the lack of biodiversity. A microscope to properly identify was crucial.
Any updates on how this worked out?
 
dont mean to hijack this thread but I have the same exact thing going on in my tank right now. Weird thing is mine seemed to appear after doing my water change. I had gone 2 weeks without because I was traveling and came back did the change and had brown strings which looked exactly like the ones pictured above, despite high flow. All my corals are fine but some of my zoas do seem to be a bit unhappy. Gonna try reducing lighitng, uv and just keep up with my weekly wc. Ill be interested to see what works for you.
 
dont mean to hijack this thread but I have the same exact thing going on in my tank right now. Weird thing is mine seemed to appear after doing my water change. I had gone 2 weeks without because I was traveling and came back did the change and had brown strings which looked exactly like the ones pictured above, despite high flow. All my corals are fine but some of my zoas do seem to be a bit unhappy. Gonna try reducing lighitng, uv and just keep up with my weekly wc. Ill be interested to see what works for you.
Dino x. I tried everything else. After Dino x, I get cyano, it's a cycle. Almost like I have to deal with 1 or the other, but Dino x will knock this out quickly.
 
Long as you guys keep dumping harsh chemicals in your tank you will have a revolving door of problems. You need to fix the source of the problem not slap a chemical bandaid on it.
 
Snag a microscope so you can know what your dealing with. I recently had dinos (beat with UV) then cyano, followed by sand dwelling dinos. Wasn’t a fun few months. Anyhow, what’s kept me stable was nitrate/ phos dosing to maintain levels while upping my temperature to 82.5 (slowly) and increasing bacterial diversity with mb7/clean, and dr tims refresh. I committed to not using any unnecessary chemicals and letting my tank recover from the lack of biodiversity. A microscope to properly identify was crucial.
What kind of microscrope? Would this cheap one from Amazon work?

AmScope 120X-1200X 52-pcs Kids Beginner Microscope STEM Kit with Metal Body Microscope, Plastic Slides, LED Light and Carrying Box (M30-ABS-KT51),Black

 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Long as you guys keep dumping harsh chemicals in your tank you will have a revolving door of problems. You need to fix the source of the problem not slap a chemical bandaid on it.
That's the thing. Once you've tried everything else, we use chemicals as a last resort. Id rather not use chemicals, but there comes a time where you have to draw the line
 
That's the thing. Once you've tried everything else, we use chemicals as a last resort. Id rather not use chemicals, but there comes a time where you have to draw the line
Yes, I can agree that as a last option it may be needed but you are posting about using one chemical and when that cleared up one problem and started another problem you post about using another chemical to try and fix that. You need to focus on your parameters which are the source of your problems to begin with. If you do not get those stabile and in good numbers then you will ultimately resort back to chemical treatments and the revolving door continues.
 
Yes, I can agree that as a last option it may be needed but you are posting about using one chemical and when that cleared up one problem and started another problem you post about using another chemical to try and fix that. You need to focus on your parameters which are the source of your problems to begin with. If you do not get those stabile and in good numbers then you will ultimately resort back to chemical treatments and the revolving door continues.
Parameters are good. Nutrients are low. Rodi water checks out. I have no idea what it could be unless it came from the addition of adding a few lbs of new dry rock that I didn't cure long enough. It's a battle I'm getting tired of fighting though
 

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