Dino ID confirmation please

[Jeto2004]

Based on @taricha "A guide to Dinoflagellate Identification in Reef Aquaria" by identification is Ostreopsis. However, I would like to have confirmation.

 

[dwest]

I can’t see the video on my ipad. I have a hard time pulling lots of them up. So it’s probably me, not you. But if you see sesame seed shape dinos, you nailed the ID.

 

[Jeto2004]

I can’t see the video on my ipad. I have a hard time pulling lots of them up. So it’s probably me, not you. But if you see sesame seed shape dinos, you nailed the ID.

Thanks, know that problem all to well can barley load any videos from this site and on my desktop I have to use Chrome and not safari, wonder if that would although work better on the ipad, will have to try.

Added an image to the original post and here is a youtube version.....

 

[35ppt]

Yep, Ostreopsis.

 

[makscopes]

Got a question. I’ve got the same thing. The only thing is they are not moving. Every other video that I see, they are moving. Do you put a slide cover on your slide, or just a drop of water?

 

[dwest]

Thanks, know that problem all to well can barley load any videos from this site and on my desktop I have to use Chrome and not safari, wonder if that would although work better on the ipad, will have to try.

Added an image to the original post and here is a youtube version.....

Thanks, it worked on my iPad now. And yes, ostreopsis. are they causing a problem? Do you know about how UV can help?

 

[Reefer1978]

Got a question. I’ve got the same thing. The only thing is they are not moving. Every other video that I see, they are moving. Do you put a slide cover on your slide, or just a drop of water?

No, no slide on top. ,Just a drop or two of water.

 

[Reefer1978]

Agreed Ostreopsis. Up your nutrients and add a large UV.

 

[Jeto2004]

Thanks, it worked on my iPad now. And yes, ostreopsis. are they causing a problem? Do you know about how UV can help?

Thanks! Yes, did some reading last night. They seem to like to settle on some of my corals. One was a birds nest that reacted with a polyp bailout, other corals as of yet seem not to care. However I have seen a drop in my ALK and Ca consumption over the last week.

Current nutrient parameters are 2.5 ppm NO3 and 0.22 ppm PO4 and a decent amount of hair algae growing. The tank is 7 month old.

Will have to order an UV sterilizer. Based on what I read the flow rate should be similar as been rated for protozoan (slow). Was wondering if it makes sense to plumb in UV more permanently and as such would have the intake in the sump, or is it better for the current purpose to have the intake form DT and back to DT?

 

[Reefer1978]

Thanks! Yes, did some reading last night. They seem to like to settle on some of my corals. One was a birds nest that reacted with a polyp bailout, other corals as of yet seem not to care. However I have seen a drop in my ALK and Ca consumption over the last week.

Current nutrient parameters are 2.5 ppm NO3 and 0.22 ppm PO4 and a decent amount of hair algae growing. The tank is 7 month old.

Will have to order an UV sterilizer. Based on what I read the flow rate should be similar as been rated for protozoan (slow). Was wondering if it makes sense to plumb in UV more permanently and as such would have the intake in the sump, or is it better for the current purpose to have the intake form DT and back to DT?

Up the nitrates to about 20ppm for phosphate 0.22, or aim for 10ppm N & .1ppm P.

With dino's it seems more important to pass all water through the UV, so I would plumb it inline with the rank return, and premaritally. Once you get them, chances are they are always there. Shoot for 1W per 2 gallons of total system volume.

 

[Jeto2004]

No, no slide on top. ,Just a drop or two of water.

What he said. However if you have a well slide you can put on a coverslip

 

[dwest]

Thanks! Yes, did some reading last night. They seem to like to settle on some of my corals. One was a birds nest that reacted with a polyp bailout, other corals as of yet seem not to care. However I have seen a drop in my ALK and Ca consumption over the last week.

Current nutrient parameters are 2.5 ppm NO3 and 0.22 ppm PO4 and a decent amount of hair algae growing. The tank is 7 month old.

Will have to order an UV sterilizer. Based on what I read the flow rate should be similar as been rated for protozoan (slow). Was wondering if it makes sense to plumb in UV more permanently and as such would have the intake in the sump, or is it better for the current purpose to have the intake form DT and back to DT?

After batting dinos myself, talking to multiple people, and reading a bunch of dino threads, you’ll get the best results running the UV from and back to the display tank. My recommendations are using at least one watt of UV per 3 gallons of system water, plumbed from DT back to DT, at a flow of 1-3 tank volumes per hour. These values are what eradicate dinos and UV manufacturers will give you very different advice. I would also use GAC to help reduce dino toxins. I replace GAC every 2 weeks. Some people eventually can put UV in their sump return after things get better. I ended up plumbing mine permanently to and from my display.

As long as you have good test kits, your nitrates and phosphates numbers are fine, but the general dino guidelines are about 10 ppm nitrates and 0.1 ppm phosphate (I personally wouldn’t mess with either).

The fact that you have hair algae and relatively happy corals is very good. When I had my dinos, even hair algae wouldn’t grow.

Since a good UV is very expensive, you MIGHT be OK monitoring your system and letting it ride out for a while. Keep encouraging algae. Your call based on $$.

 

[Jeto2004]

After batting dinos myself, talking to multiple people, and reading a bunch of dino threads, you’ll get the best results running the UV from and back to the display tank. My recommendations are using at least one watt of UV per 3 gallons of system water, plumbed from DT back to DT, at a flow of 1-3 tank volumes per hour. These values are what eradicate dinos and UV manufacturers will give you very different advice. I would also use GAC to help reduce dino toxins. I replace GAC every 2 weeks. Some people eventually can put UV in their sump return after things get better. I ended up plumbing mine permanently to and from my display.

As long as you have good test kits, your nitrates and phosphates numbers are fine, but the general dino guidelines are about 10 ppm nitrates and 0.1 ppm phosphate (I personally wouldn’t mess with either).

The fact that you have hair algae and relatively happy corals is very good. When I had my dinos, even hair algae wouldn’t grow.

Since a good UV is very expensive, you MIGHT be OK monitoring your system and letting it ride out for a while. Keep encouraging algae. Your call based on $$.

Thanks, I think things are getting worth, running carbon but it seems dino multiply and poping up on more corals. May have to bite the bullet and get a UV.