Dino ID help

DelRayTank

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Hello all I’m looking for some help isentofying these cells, which I believe are dinos. . .

Short version of the story - I had a Cyano outbreak a few weeks ago that wouldn’t go away. I used chemiclean according to the instructions (including the water change), which cleared out the cyano in a couple of days. Within a week, my sandbed was covered in what looked like Dino’s (brown clumps with bubbles forming on the surface but no “snot”). I immediately ran a 3 day blackout of the tank and put a cheap UV in the tank (24w Green Killing Machine) and began dosing microbacter7, waste away, and vibrant on alternating days, while also raising nitrates and phosphates.

After the blackout, the sand Bed was clear and all was great in the tank. It’s now been about 2 weeks, and I’m starting to see some brown nastiness begin to cover my sand bed again. I got a cheap microscope and was able to sample the stuff growing on the sand bed.

These cells appear to be spinning under the microscope. Are these Dino’s? Can anyone help ID the strain?

Thanks for the help and sorry for the poor picture. It was really hard getting my phone to focus on the eyepiece of the microscope.

0E0F5E35-966F-4C75-B1EA-3EB7FC57B8F5.jpeg
 
My guess would be coolia based on your description (just in case no one else chimes in). But I’ll let the aforementioned experts weigh in.
 
Have you tried this dino ID method ?

 
Cheers @ScottR

I am struggling to get a confirm based on that picture. These would be the first "green" colored dinos I have seen, but perhaps that is just the lighting? More often to see brown to gold colors. Go through the coffee filter test first to see if they coagulate after being filtered/dispersed.

I attach the Dino ID Guide in case it helps with this or other images/recollections you have. How the dinos move is often a good tell so review the textual descriptions.

There are a few different treatment methods. I prefer the method that encourages competition (raise nutrients and deploy UV). It is safe and effective for all but the sand-based large cell amphidinium. Several here promote the H2O2 & blackout method. Personally, I'd reserve that for the aforementioned amphids that don't release into the water column for the UV to sterilize. Then there is the high pH method which would give me the jitters pegging pH that high for that long.

Keep us updated.
 

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Maybe try some more pictures... it's too hard to see anything clearly for identification in that first pic.
 
Maybe try some more pictures... it's too hard to see anything clearly for identification in that first pic.
agreed.
 

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