Dino take-over!
- Thread starter Jfelt25
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DinoMagnet
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leptang
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Have a po4 test kit, test your water if you see 0 reading... Well thats your problem. Test nitrates keep the Redfield Ration of propor balance key word here balance. About 5ppm NO3-of nitrate ans 0.02 po4, dose if below the balance levels of concentration. A Protein skimmer is needed to control input and output of nutrients aka nutrition. Dino's like light ultra low PO4 and low NO3- and as Dino are iold and like old school back in dino times, times were different. Now to the next point, evolution has its hold mimicking it is our goal balance. Bacteria is a driving force to reckon with. So lets do what the bacteria that compete with dino's does. Eat or be eaten, the ones with a full belly will pervail. So feed the other bacteria and not dino's.... What eats more then dinos you say?
Bacteria that eat nitrate and phosphate primarily. Bacterias that are aerobic and anaerobic. The air we breathe was created by bacteria and their are many kinds and i thank them for my existence. But to out to compete is the goal for you fellow reefer.
The chemistry is in your hands. Inport and export balance. When nitrates and phosphates get high, take the nutrients out, when they get to low put nutrients in. Dose a good balance of 5ppm nitrates and 0.02 phosphates. Keep your water warm 77°f aka about 26°c or above water less then 34ppt. Salinity. The more watery then salty helps the bacteria you want. If you can A UV sterilizer will help speed things up. Also a protein skimmer to export bacteria is a plus to control nitrates and phosphates, vodka or vinegar or sugar can be used to lower the nitrates and phosphates.
If the nitrates and phosphates are higher than 5ppm nitrates and 0.02ppm phosphates algae will grow and dinos will host on algae and feed off of algea, hair and other types of algea doesn't matter what type dino's feed off of other things when nitrates and phosphates are undetectable with hobby grade test kits. Eat or be eaten. Dose vibrant and or Doc. Tims bacteria but maintain 5ppm nitrates and 0.02 phosphates. Blowing off dino's off the surface of rock and glass and filtering or sucking into a UV sterilizer would be recommended, along with lowering light intensity with no more then a 12 hour period at a low light intensity. Dosing bottle bacteria all flow and pumps off to alow bacteria to host on the rock/surface. I would also recommend dosing glass water aka sodium silicate solution for promoting diatoms growth to also out compete dinos.
Im still testing farther solutions to dino problems, time will tell with patience, got to have that too because it isn't a over night fix.
If im would guess the dinos you have is Ostreopsis sp.
Bacteria that eat nitrate and phosphate primarily. Bacterias that are aerobic and anaerobic. The air we breathe was created by bacteria and their are many kinds and i thank them for my existence. But to out to compete is the goal for you fellow reefer.
The chemistry is in your hands. Inport and export balance. When nitrates and phosphates get high, take the nutrients out, when they get to low put nutrients in. Dose a good balance of 5ppm nitrates and 0.02 phosphates. Keep your water warm 77°f aka about 26°c or above water less then 34ppt. Salinity. The more watery then salty helps the bacteria you want. If you can A UV sterilizer will help speed things up. Also a protein skimmer to export bacteria is a plus to control nitrates and phosphates, vodka or vinegar or sugar can be used to lower the nitrates and phosphates.
If the nitrates and phosphates are higher than 5ppm nitrates and 0.02ppm phosphates algae will grow and dinos will host on algae and feed off of algea, hair and other types of algea doesn't matter what type dino's feed off of other things when nitrates and phosphates are undetectable with hobby grade test kits. Eat or be eaten. Dose vibrant and or Doc. Tims bacteria but maintain 5ppm nitrates and 0.02 phosphates. Blowing off dino's off the surface of rock and glass and filtering or sucking into a UV sterilizer would be recommended, along with lowering light intensity with no more then a 12 hour period at a low light intensity. Dosing bottle bacteria all flow and pumps off to alow bacteria to host on the rock/surface. I would also recommend dosing glass water aka sodium silicate solution for promoting diatoms growth to also out compete dinos.
Im still testing farther solutions to dino problems, time will tell with patience, got to have that too because it isn't a over night fix.
If im would guess the dinos you have is Ostreopsis sp.
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would be very interested in what tank conditions and practices led to such a strong and successful culture of dinos!
