Was noticing these bubbles on my rocks and sand was just hoping they were just nitrogen bubbles a few I see are on strands would this appear to be dino or does anything else look similar to it tank is about 5 months old
Dino?
- Thread starter johnsamm7
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mcarroll
10K Club member
Not unlikely....check out the dino sticky in the algae forum:
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
Review the first post and see if your system/situation seems to fit. My guess from the pics and brief description here is "Yes."
You can also take a sample and shake it up/homogenize it.
If it "regroups" into snotty clumps/strands then it's dino's.
If it stays "shaken up" then it's something else. (cyano, hair algae, diatoms, etc)
(That test is linked on the first post too.
)
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
Review the first post and see if your system/situation seems to fit. My guess from the pics and brief description here is "Yes."
You can also take a sample and shake it up/homogenize it.
If it "regroups" into snotty clumps/strands then it's dino's.
If it stays "shaken up" then it's something else. (cyano, hair algae, diatoms, etc)
(That test is linked on the first post too.
)
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My Tank Thread
This shot makes me think it could be the beginnings of Dino's
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
These things thrive in new tanks with dry rock and love low Phosphates/Nitrates. I got rid of them early with a UV filter and blowing them of the rock. Competition is key and making sure nutrients are detectable.
Don't let them spread!
Don't let them spread!
Kamden Uelton
Well-Known Member
Yes, It seems the Dinosaur you have in your tank is Tyranosaurus Rex! All jokes aside I get this stuff occasionally when I overfeed my Crinoids and It goes away after a few hours one thing I have found to eat it is White Legged Hermit crabs
I collect them at my Local Beach for Filefish Food but they are good members of the CUC eating even Cyanobacteria!
I collect them at my Local Beach for Filefish Food but they are good members of the CUC eating even Cyanobacteria!
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Blowing them off the rock and having a 36watt UV sterilizer helps them not reappear in my tank. Once water borne they get zapped and stop reappearing. I would say without this I would have had major problem as many do with dinos. I am not worried about that at all.
They love new surfaces I had them reappear this week on my newly placed frag rack. I blew them off again for a few days and gradually they just go away.
They love new surfaces I had them reappear this week on my newly placed frag rack. I blew them off again for a few days and gradually they just go away.
I would add a further direct access recommendation to any beginning dino invasion
be hand removing all colonies you can visually see, at all times, have none visual in the tank while that fantastic UV is running. UV is implicated in dino threads perhaps more than any other approach shown online. Nutrient adjustments are fine preventatives, don't rely on anything but a powerful directed siphon and daily work to keep the mass low, while you seek suppression or kill or competition, whatever your preventative method may be.
The lack of direct removal of the target when its very low phase like this thread is a huge problem in battling tank dinos. They're simply left there to grow in 97% of cases with water action methods being tried. perform the water experiments after the mass has been hand guided out, its your best hope.
a neat part of that reaction sequence is that ID doesn't matter in any tank battle if the first step is direct removal of a concerning target. If that's only a cyano mat making its nitrogen/etc then no harm no foul in having done a bit of manual gardening practice.
be hand removing all colonies you can visually see, at all times, have none visual in the tank while that fantastic UV is running. UV is implicated in dino threads perhaps more than any other approach shown online. Nutrient adjustments are fine preventatives, don't rely on anything but a powerful directed siphon and daily work to keep the mass low, while you seek suppression or kill or competition, whatever your preventative method may be.
The lack of direct removal of the target when its very low phase like this thread is a huge problem in battling tank dinos. They're simply left there to grow in 97% of cases with water action methods being tried. perform the water experiments after the mass has been hand guided out, its your best hope.
a neat part of that reaction sequence is that ID doesn't matter in any tank battle if the first step is direct removal of a concerning target. If that's only a cyano mat making its nitrogen/etc then no harm no foul in having done a bit of manual gardening practice.
