Dinoflagellates ID

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Help with dinoflagellates ID please. (Picture and video at very bottom of rant)
Pretty sure mostly Ostreopsis with second type in much smaller concentrations.
I’ve read the couple of long/concise dino treatment threads so plan to follow best I can for Ostreopsis.
*posted in one but no responses and probably better not to cloud those threads more

Any/all opinions/suggestions welcome but primarily hoping for:
- Confirm Ostreopsis
- ID on 2nd type if possible
- Thoughts on cheap UV vs none at all
*H2O2 dosing (for 5 days or whatever) scares me but maybe if I get desperate

Here’s the cheap UV I’m thinking about but welcome suggestions for better options (<$200):
*40 gallon with NO sump and only room for HOB UV would be on front so OK if temporary
*this is undersized (wattage) but flow rate seems good to target 1-3x per hour

Internal UV Sterilizer


Background only if of interest:
- Bottomed out phosphates and got dino outbreak (over 1 year ago, I think)
- Just aggressive manual removal and dosing phosphate got me passed it
- Hadn't seen any dinos for many months (maybe close to a year)
- Started dosing Coral Aminos twice per week and started seeing some dino "strands" hanging off corals (so stopped with the aminos)
*not bad right now but want to be prepared with a plan





dinos1.JPG
 
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Help with dinoflagellates ID please. (Picture and video at very bottom of rant)
Pretty sure mostly Ostreopsis with second type in much smaller concentrations.
I’ve read the couple of long/concise dino treatment threads so plan to follow best I can for Ostreopsis.
*posted in one but no responses and probably better not to cloud those threads more

Any/all opinions/suggestions welcome but primarily hoping for:
- Confirm Ostreopsis
- ID on 2nd type if possible
- Thoughts on cheap UV vs none at all
*H2O2 dosing (for 5 days or whatever) scares me but maybe if I get desperate

Here’s the cheap UV I’m thinking about but welcome suggestions for better options (<$200):
*40 gallon with NO sump and only room for HOB UV would be on front so OK if temporary
*this is undersized (wattage) but flow rate seems good to target 1-3x per hour

Internal UV Sterilizer


Background only if of interest:
- Bottomed out phosphates and got dino outbreak (over 1 year ago, I think)
- Just aggressive manual removal and dosing phosphate got me passed it
- Hadn't seen any dinos for many months (maybe close to a year)
- Started dosing Coral Aminos twice per week and started seeing some dino "strands" hanging off corals (so stopped with the aminos)
*not bad right now but want to be prepared with a plan





dinos1.JPG
I’m viewing this on my phone but looks like amphidium
Prepare by starting with a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off.
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights - ramping up and work your white lights up slowly
 
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Thanks,,, I'm really hesitant to dose H2O2 but will read up on that more.

User taricha said the following:
right. you have 90+% ostreopsis and a few amphidinium. Deal with the ostreopsis, and don't worry too much about the amphidinium for now.

I'd still like opinions on the following:
- Cheapie internal UV better than nothing?
- Suggestions for better UV with full setup <$200

Please keep in mind:
- 40 gallon with NO sump
- Only room for HOB would be on FRONT of tank so OK if temporary

Currently considering just trying something like this $43, 13W, 50-211 GPH internal UV:

AquaShine 13W UV
 
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