dinoflagellates

yenniffer

New Member
View Badges
Joined
May 29, 2021
Messages
20
Reaction score
6
Location
houston
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
C5367B80-0285-46E2-9AFA-1A9B8B315114.jpeg


could this be dinoflagellates? It’s brownish stringy. i had a bad case of gha about a month ago and was able to get rid of it with reeflux. Now i have all this stuff in my sand bed.
 
C5367B80-0285-46E2-9AFA-1A9B8B315114.jpeg


could this be dinoflagellates? It’s brownish stringy. i had a bad case of gha about a month ago and was able to get rid of it with reeflux. Now i have all this stuff in my sand bed.
Water change may make that worse, they come when nutrients zero out.

Hard to tell without magnification.

If they disappear every night, but back when lights are on, then yes, Dino, likely golden type…..use Dino-X and UV.

Suck out as much as possible.

Ensure nutrients, are available in trace quantities.

Use Dino-x, an algaecide, to wipe them out.

Takes about 6 days.
You got to make sure nutrients are correct or they will return in some weeks.
 
If they are dinos and the dinos go away at night and then build back up uv sterilizers are usually very efficient.
 
They may still be Dinos but it is more hit an miss if UV will help if they do not disappear.
 
Do dinos always disappear at night ? I seem to have them too and there is no difference night or day.
No some do and some do not, the ones that do disappear however usually are effective most by UV.
 
there is a way to test this, from what ive found in these forums and online. get a sample of the algae and filter it through papertowel into a clear jar, and shake it very well, then let it sit. if it is dinos, dinos will reform to look like a mucus. here is the thread in R2R about doing this test, that you might find useful.
 
Just had the same problem, stop doing water changes, start feeding double. Blackout tank using cardboard for 24 hours, remove when dinos are gone. Avoid chemicals
 
Another option is to dose frozen phytoplankton and rotifers. There is some evidence (although more is needed) that as they breakdown they outcompete the Dino’s cyano etc.
 
So I think my tank is crashing! I had dose chemiclean on thursday and didn’t do the water change until yesterday (which I should’ve done on sat). I’ve had used it in the past without issues. I had some cyano alone with what I think is Dino’s. The cyano is gone the dinos are still there. My corals are ticked off though. Most of the zoas are closed, the elk horn that I had in there turned white, one of my anemones is dead and the other in bad shape and this morning I woke up to a dead cleaner shrimp! Ugh I hate myself right now. I don’t know what else to do, I already did a big water change yesterday and added carbon back in the filter socks. Help!
 
Your tank is way to clean and has low competing algae and bacteria so the dino is beating everything in the compeition for nutrients. You need to keep nitrates around 10 ppm and .10 phospate, high levels will help you grow a competing algae and raise your good bacteria.. Dont do waterchanges and dont use any amino supplements. I did this last week and it fueled Dino like crazy.

A $15 microscope helped me verify the strain (osteoporosis dino) for this type a UV sterilizer 9 watt called green machine for $44 seems like is getting rid of them quickly. After trying everything and 2 months of fighting its well worth the price.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top