I am looking for new idea's on how to extinguish dinoflagulates. I have done 3 day blackouts with no luck. I use rodi water and test it with a T.d.s meter. The water is good but after water change they explode. I have used many different kinds of salt, still no change. I have been fighting them for nearly a year now.Maybe its just me but this site is difficult to navigate.
dinoflagulates
- Thread starter jeeperndp2
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Salty0331
Well-Known Member
In the mean time Dino flourishes on high nutrients like Nitrates and Phos. Also excess co2 in the tank can also add to their perceived paradise. What are the readings of the latest water tests?
ReefMadScientist
Valuable Member
Salty0331
Well-Known Member
Dino is easily confused with Diatoms.....thing to look for would be like Zwu said...."is it stringy, but the tall tale sign is also little bubbles that form on the algae in question.....that combined with a snotty look could be Dino. This almost alway caused by high nutrient levels. What are you Nitrates and Phosphate levels?
Salty0331
Well-Known Member
If Dino is present, nutrient test may give false readings, this is due to the Dino sucking up large amounts of nutrients to reproduce. This would cause the reading to be near normal, that is why people have a hard time getting rid of them. The key is keeping the nutrient levels in check. You could reduce feeding, check salt ingredients, lower the light photo period, even running a blackout period. What you want to do is start them into extinction.
not sure "high nutrients" causes a dino outbreak. ive choked them out and many others have done 90% water changes to no avail.
in the end after testing 72 hours lights out, installing uv, and h2o2 dosing i finally ended it's reign of terror doing a few things that were most effective from my experience with this scourge.
ill order them from most impactful to least.
2ml per hour h202 @ 300 volume gal
or 1ml per hour @ 150 volume gal
that kept it in check.
2nd no white lights. blue lights retarded growth 70% at least.
alternate lighting schedule to nights every other week to throw off their circadium rythm.
siphon all sand out, and replace or rinse it. this knocked it back a ton when done in conjunction with a 1ml per 10 gallons of h202/salt water.
the h202 in the new batch of salt water stopped that explosive growth from doing only a water change.
the sand siphon/ water changes with h202 did the biggest "dents"
the blue light, h202 dosing, alternate light schedule made it so it never had a chance to take hold.
also if you see cyano... let it grow. itll help fix nitrate in the water column.
those are my lessons i learned with my strain.
a cheap dp-4 doser runs 75-100 bucks.
hth
in the end after testing 72 hours lights out, installing uv, and h2o2 dosing i finally ended it's reign of terror doing a few things that were most effective from my experience with this scourge.
ill order them from most impactful to least.
2ml per hour h202 @ 300 volume gal
or 1ml per hour @ 150 volume gal
that kept it in check.
2nd no white lights. blue lights retarded growth 70% at least.
alternate lighting schedule to nights every other week to throw off their circadium rythm.
siphon all sand out, and replace or rinse it. this knocked it back a ton when done in conjunction with a 1ml per 10 gallons of h202/salt water.
the h202 in the new batch of salt water stopped that explosive growth from doing only a water change.
the sand siphon/ water changes with h202 did the biggest "dents"
the blue light, h202 dosing, alternate light schedule made it so it never had a chance to take hold.
also if you see cyano... let it grow. itll help fix nitrate in the water column.
those are my lessons i learned with my strain.
a cheap dp-4 doser runs 75-100 bucks.
hth
twilliard
Tank pests..
Well said Russ!
Salty0331
Well-Known Member
Russ......Agreed, however they certainly aid in their ability to thrive. If you take away all their nutrient sources they can be starved off.
Jeep.....check out this link.....Randy is usually spot on.....http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php
Jeep.....check out this link.....Randy is usually spot on.....http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php
OP
OP
jeeperndp2
New Member
Thanks for the response guys. I have tested the water many times . Most always there is nearly no phosphate and no nitrates. I think the Dino's are sucking it all up as you said. I haven't done a water change in months now trying to starve them. I don't know what h 202 is but I have dosed hydrogen peroxide for months.
the percentage of people with certain species of invasive nonresponsive dinos who wish that any form of nutrient sequestration could fix their tank is 100%, and the response rate for actually getting cures is less than 20% per method across these proof threads.
why the gap
why the gap
just dosing it keeps it in check.
try a sand siphon and rinse it out or replace the substrate if it is old.
then replace the new clean saltwater with peroxide 1ml per 10 gal.
my nutrients were like yours. infact most people i have observed with dinos have low nutrient systems.
peroxide itself was not a silver bullet.
usmc2897
Community Member
Fauna marin has a product dinox that worked for me. I used it in combination with h2o2, lights out, kalk and no water changes. I have no been free of all dinos for the first time in a year! I will caution you that some of my corals did not like the treatment and almost all of my SPS has lost a lot of color but are rebounding now. The key for me was attacking the dinos from multiple angles simultaneously.
Good luck!
Good luck!
water changes fueled my dino growth as well. however. if your mixing station is a 40 gallon brute can. adding 4 ml 3% peroxide before transferring to your tank stopped that growth explosion. you could safely double that but effectiveness is lost.
dosing peroxide wasnt as effective for me (by hand) than the spread-over-time approach by letting the doser do it for me every hour.
i saw many people had better results doing a dose in the morning and 1 at night at half or even full dose of 1ml per 10.
at the end of the day my doser did 1ml:6.25 gal but my doses done 24 hours a day gave a stable increase of h202. as opposed to 1 or 2 nukes a day
(i had plenty of time to test stuff)
btw. dosing phosphate or nitrate did nothing but make me clean my glass more.
dosing peroxide wasnt as effective for me (by hand) than the spread-over-time approach by letting the doser do it for me every hour.
i saw many people had better results doing a dose in the morning and 1 at night at half or even full dose of 1ml per 10.
at the end of the day my doser did 1ml:6.25 gal but my doses done 24 hours a day gave a stable increase of h202. as opposed to 1 or 2 nukes a day
(i had plenty of time to test stuff)
btw. dosing phosphate or nitrate did nothing but make me clean my glass more.
Last edited:
cyano w concomitant hair algae
not dinos is my call. I too take off full speed on cycling threads before we get pics 25 techniques have been delineated around having fully cycled cured rock "they said it was live rock"
what the pics then show is bone white base rock undoing 24 of those said options heh.
not dinos is my call. I too take off full speed on cycling threads before we get pics 25 techniques have been delineated around having fully cycled cured rock "they said it was live rock"
what the pics then show is bone white base rock undoing 24 of those said options heh.
although cyano can be golden, brown, red and green in the marine aquarium Ive never seen red hue dinos across five thousand dino tank pics. I claim if the cyano wasn't there, we'd have the common clearish-green strandy algae as a separate and equally reef adapted invader. both easy to fix using no dino madness. your cyano lives on top of and around that same algae mass thats on the rocks, common dealings until that space which is white is taken over by coralline, corals, the items we like.
http://reef2reef.com/threads/helpful-method-for-identifying-dinoflagellates.216508/
I think we should run this regrouping test on your red invader
I think we should run this regrouping test on your red invader
def not dino.
cyano can be stringy and bubbly.
trust me... if you had tenuis or milles and dino was in that tank... they would be bone white in no time.
you can go chemiclean with heavy skimming or manually remove it.
just my personal opinion.
be happy it isnt the scourge us others have encountered. peroxide does nothing to it.(cyano)
cyano can be stringy and bubbly.
trust me... if you had tenuis or milles and dino was in that tank... they would be bone white in no time.
you can go chemiclean with heavy skimming or manually remove it.
just my personal opinion.
be happy it isnt the scourge us others have encountered. peroxide does nothing to it.(cyano)
