Dinos but Nitrates and Phosphates are ok

[sixty_reefer]

They have been stable for quite some time. Around .03-.1 phos and 5-15 Nitrates.

You could try adding nopox or vodka at lights out 0.5ml to 1ml per 25 gallons of volume this will increase bacteria that will be competing directly with the dinoflagellates for nutrients as long as you won’t allow nutrients to be fully depleted it could aid you, other alternatives is add silica that will aid the development of diatoms that will also compete for nutrients

 

[sixty_reefer]

I started having dinos when my nitrates and phosphates were still at acceptable levels (about 12 ppm nitrates, 0,08 phosphates). I managed to get rid of the first batch of dinos but then they came back (a different kind).

Now that I have some perspective, I believe my nutrients were slowly decreasing and dinos took advantage of it. I did not know it because it happened very slowly, over a long period. The tank was still relatively new and over the course of 3-4 months, nitrates and phosphates went down to 0.

I kept my tank very clean. Now I know that’s not a good practice.

Just a thought.

Some species of dinoflagellates have the ability to exactly that, they can excrete dissolved organic carbon that will deplete inorganic nutrients and allowing them to thrive in organic nutrient.

 

[Uncle99]

I dont have a picture at the moment but I can take one tonight. Its on rocks and on the sand. Long (maybe 2-4") in some spots. Easily vacuumed up and traps a ton of bubbles. Once I clean it up as much as I can its back in a day or two maybe.

When I clean this up i'm siphoning from the tank into a filter sock in the sump. Is that ok or should I be going out of the tank and then just fill up with new salt water after?

If your nutrients are in check and balance, I’d keep the water, water changes will only lower those numbers, and that’s not the direction we want to go.

I would change nothing at this time, it may serve to destabilize your system….let’s get some pics out there any see if we can pinpoint the “what” and “how extensive” questions.

Something seems up for sure, reduce its numbers is always part of the solution.

 

[Floyd-]

Pictures as requested...

 

[Floyd-]

Any ideas? I have not touched a thing since taking these pictures and almost all of it has gone away after I used a baster and cleaned off the rocks.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I

Any ideas? I have not touched a thing since taking these pictures and almost all of it has gone away after I used a baster and cleaned off the rocks.

Its chrysophytes also known as golden algae and Cyanobacteria on the sand bed

 

[Floyd-]

Its chrysophytes also known as golden algae and Cyanobacteria on the sand bed

Ill have to look that up. Never heard of golden algae.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Ill have to look that up. Never heard of golden algae.

It’s not fairly common to have it, just another algae that thrives under low inorganic nutrient.

 

[Floyd-]

It’s not fairly common to have it, just another algae that thrives under low inorganic nutrient.

I'm normally around .1 phos and 10-15 nitrate. I dont think thats low by any means.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I'm normally around .1 phos and 10-15 nitrate. I dont think thats low by any means.

Yes that’s correct those numbers are reasonable although did the algae bloomed wile the nutrients were at that level or lower? I would imagine that you may have been on the 0.02-0.05 phosphates and around 2 to 5 nitrates wend it first started developing or notice small strains.

 

[thatmanMIKEson]

It’s not fairly common to have it, just another algae that thrives under low inorganic nutrient.

I've had it before with low n03 and low p04 and adding AB+ daily

 

[DoninHouston]

I'm way over my novice head entering this discussion, but here goes. Sometimes we can overdose carbon products to eliminate nitrates and phosphates, but, without a little of both of those, we tip the scale towards Dinos rather than algae. A healthy algae environment will help your coral and should substantially reduce Dinos some day to extinction.

Coral don't need much red and green light, but white light promotes growth. I keep my white at 25% and I use a UV filter on my return circulating water. I also use Iodide 'reef safe' products on everything I purchase. And I keep a lot of snails and conches (1 conch per sq ft of sand). Sorry I can't be more helpful or scientific.

 

[slr]

Ive been dealing with this bubble trapping snot for weeks now. I keep cleaning it out of the tank but it keeps coming back.
Nitrates are at 8.2 and Phosphate is at .08 checked with Hanna checkers. Any other way I can get rid of this junk?

I started having dinos when my nitrates and phosphates were still at acceptable levels (about 12 ppm nitrates, 0,08 phosphates). I managed to get rid of the first batch of dinos but then they came back (a different kind).

Now that I have some perspective, I believe my nutrients were slowly decreasing and dinos took advantage of it. I did not know it because it happened very slowly, over a long period. The tank was still relatively new and over the course of 3-4 months, nitrates and phosphates went down to 0.

I kept my tank very clean. Now I know that’s not a good practice.

Just a thought.

How is your current

 

[DoninHouston]

I'd like to add one more possibly helpful item to my comments. Oxygen test kits are cheap and might tell you that you have low oxygen causing this problem. Are your return jets focused on moving the surface water to increase O2 uptake? That's an easy fix.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I've had it before with low n03 and low p04 and adding AB+ daily

In your case ab+ Could have been the route cause of the issue, ab+ is a mixture of organic nutrients and a overdose can create a imbalance between organic and inorganic nutrients sufficient to allow species that thrive on organic nutrients to bloom.

 

[Idech]

How is your current

Dinos haven’t come back. I have stopped dosing silicate regularly. I might do it once every 7-10 days. I have a little diatoms on the sand but nothing major. Conch snail is loving it!

 

[Floyd-]

How is your current

I have 4 jets on the rear of the tank (redsea max tank) the return, gyre and a powerhead. I dont have dead spots.

I'd like to add one more possibly helpful item to my comments. Oxygen test kits are cheap and might tell you that you have low oxygen causing this problem. Are your return jets focused on moving the surface water to increase O2 uptake? That's an easy fix.

I have 4 jets pointed to the surface. Doubt thats an issue.

 

[RIC13]

I’ve been in the hobby for 5 yrs this December 2022. I’ve battled cyano, dinos, and what I believe was Calothrix (also a form of cyano). I didn’t mention diatoms bc they weren’t a battle for me—short lived.

Calothrix and dinos looked similar to me in that they both had bubbles. Here’s my experience in the event that you have Calothrix—I accidentally overdosed Vibrant and it disappeared, never to return. I DO NOT RECOMMEND OVERDOSING VIBRANT.

However, here’s what I would do if I were you:

1) check out Calothrix and Chrysophytes as additional options
2) keep phosphate btwn .05 and .1 and nitrate between 10 and 20 ppm
3) buy a cheap UV sterilizer like the Green Killing machine.
4) research the value of dosing something like Fluconazole, red stain (slime) remover, or chemiclean. If you dose, START CONSERVATIVE and go up from there.
5) and while doing 1-4, suck up the stringy stuff as often as you need/want while putting the outlet in a filter sock to remove the goo and running the water back into your tank. Stop doing water changes for now.
6) be patient…like 8-12 weeks patient.