I have recently cycled a tank and I believe I am battling a bout of dinos. I've been doing some research and believe it is dinos but am not 100% sure. It tends to go away when the lights go off but get worse as the day goes on while the lights are on. My phospate level is .25-.50 ppm and my nitrates are around 10. I have read that dinos occur when both phosphates and nitrates are zero. Can dinos occur when phosphates/nitrates are not zero?
Dinos, Cyano or Something Else
- Thread starter mbixler1537
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Without pics there is no certainty. If its brown, dusty, comes off the glass in sheets if you scrape it then its diatoms. If the tank is new, like mine, then its most likely diatoms. If you are using RODI water then its just something you have to wait out.
mbixler1537
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everything is brown...
Hello all I was hoping somebody could help guide me through an algae issue Im having with a fairly new tank. This is my first attempt at a reef tank, I just have a tiny 15 Litre nano tank. The tank finished cycling about 6 weeks ago, levels are all 0 for nitrites, ammonia and nitrates. I am...
www.reef2reef.com
see what we did there, yours is easier, they had worse growth. Fixed by cleaning, you aren’t required to keep those growths
mbixler1537
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Here is a pic once the lights turn on. This is why I thought it was dinos. This will get worse throughout the day. My tank has been cycled for about a month so that leads me to believe it is diatoms.
That's not 1/4 as rough as the example thread, yours will respond well to deep cleaning. They all do
You can choose to keep as is if you prefer current condition, cleaning has no downside though. No degree of cleaning can undo a recent cycle, that's the first main benefit of completing a cycle= locked permanently provided we don't dose antibiotics
You can choose to keep as is if you prefer current condition, cleaning has no downside though. No degree of cleaning can undo a recent cycle, that's the first main benefit of completing a cycle= locked permanently provided we don't dose antibiotics
It is just the first of many little ugly phases that every new system pretty much has to pass through. Dusty brown stuff, stringy brown stuff, green film stuff, red stuff, green hair stuff, back to brown stuff. With dead rock start, it will settle down in 7-12 months. Just keep stable salinity, temperature and regular maintenance.
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Looks like diatoms often present in newer tanks deriving from silicates. Nitrate and phosphate
You can reduce white light intensity a little and add chemipure elite which will keep phosphate and nitrate in check
Also some blue leg hermits. Nassarius and astrea snails will help with keeping it clean
You can reduce white light intensity a little and add chemipure elite which will keep phosphate and nitrate in check
Also some blue leg hermits. Nassarius and astrea snails will help with keeping it clean
RobinV
New Member
I'm having a similar problem. Do you guys think it might be the same -- dinos?
Phosphate 0, Nitrate 0 -- I know that's likely part of the problem, but I misunderstood and thought 0's were the goal. I've been feeding more over the past week, but levels haven't come up. I was doing 25% water changes 2-3 times a week so that I could siphon it off the gravel but it comes back immediately, so I'm backing that down to 25% once a week. I tried chemiclean twice -- once in powder form and once in liquid form -- did nothing. I did a 3 day blackout which seemed to help a lot, but it came back within a week. I even tried raising the temp to 82 degrees because I read that worked for someone on here. I just bought a 24Watt UV but haven't put it in yet. (I have a waterbox 20 cube).
Any advice?
Phosphate 0, Nitrate 0 -- I know that's likely part of the problem, but I misunderstood and thought 0's were the goal. I've been feeding more over the past week, but levels haven't come up. I was doing 25% water changes 2-3 times a week so that I could siphon it off the gravel but it comes back immediately, so I'm backing that down to 25% once a week. I tried chemiclean twice -- once in powder form and once in liquid form -- did nothing. I did a 3 day blackout which seemed to help a lot, but it came back within a week. I even tried raising the temp to 82 degrees because I read that worked for someone on here. I just bought a 24Watt UV but haven't put it in yet. (I have a waterbox 20 cube).
Any advice?
mbixler1537
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I used chemiclean. It was gone in less than 2 days.I'm having a similar problem. Do you guys think it might be the same -- dinos?
Phosphate 0, Nitrate 0 -- I know that's likely part of the problem, but I misunderstood and thought 0's were the goal. I've been feeding more over the past week, but levels haven't come up. I was doing 25% water changes 2-3 times a week so that I could siphon it off the gravel but it comes back immediately, so I'm backing that down to 25% once a week. I tried chemiclean twice -- once in powder form and once in liquid form -- did nothing. I did a 3 day blackout which seemed to help a lot, but it came back within a week. I even tried raising the temp to 82 degrees because I read that worked for someone on here. I just bought a 24Watt UV but haven't put it in yet. (I have a waterbox 20 cube).
Any advice?
RobinV
New Member
Yeah, I tried that. Twice. Didn’t work. That’s why I was trying to find any other advice?
Why not run the ready easy fix from post #6
no ID is needed
no waiting needed, no testing, just fixed. By lunchtime today
using chemiclean works about half the time posts show. In all cases where it works, extra waste compounding happens due to prior waste and now dead cyano, and the tank is primed for GHA battles next
cleaning removes the waste, and invasion, leaves the nano clean like in post six
no ID is needed
no waiting needed, no testing, just fixed. By lunchtime today
using chemiclean works about half the time posts show. In all cases where it works, extra waste compounding happens due to prior waste and now dead cyano, and the tank is primed for GHA battles next
cleaning removes the waste, and invasion, leaves the nano clean like in post six
