Dinos ID?

[abrichy]

Hi all, about 90 days into the hobby, and the tanks life.
Having fun with the Dino’s takeover; approaching it with over feeding and Microbacter7 to help combat. Ordered Dr. Tims solution to help as well.
However, this white/moldy looking stuff as started to appear the morning after a water change. Hoping to get some help on an ID to help figure it out

60G Cube w/ 20g sump skimmer available, but has not been used
2 Clowns
1 Royal Gramma
1 Coral Banded Shrimp
Handful of snails and hermits
0.06ppm Phospates
0.0 ppm Nitrates
1.025 Salinity
76-78° F

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi all, about 90 days into the hobby, and the tanks life.
Having fun with the Dino’s takeover; approaching it with over feeding and Microbacter7 to help combat. Ordered Dr. Tims solution to help as well.
However, this white/moldy looking stuff as started to appear the morning after a water change. Hoping to get some help on an ID to help figure it out

60G Cube w/ 20g sump skimmer available, but has not been used
2 Clowns
1 Royal Gramma
1 Coral Banded Shrimp
Handful of snails and hermits
0.06ppm Phospates
0.0 ppm Nitrates
1.025 Salinity
76-78° F

This is cyano and not dino and emerges when phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high where there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a base for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skim-mate. When a protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have a suitable size protein skimmer to keep up with the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano outbreak .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your tank with nutrients is often the cause of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for this red slime .
- If you don’t change your water regularly, you’ll soon have this red substance. Regular water changes dissolve nutrients which feed cyano
- Using water with nitrates or phosphates is a base for cyano. . . . . Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow is often a chief cause of cyano blooms as slow moving water combined with excessive dissolved nutrients creates red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[abrichy]

This is cyano and not dino and emerges when phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high where there are areas with little flow, detritus builds up and becomes a base for cyano. Water changes are important unlike what the perception of not doing one which reduces the organic content that feeds cyano.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with air bubbles which form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it settles as skim-mate. When a protein skimmer has low efficiency or you do not have a suitable size protein skimmer to keep up with the tank, the air bubbles created might be insufficient and can trigger cyano outbreak .
- Use of Aminos which actually feed them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your tank with nutrients is often the cause of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured will act as a breeding ground for this red slime .
- If you don’t change your water regularly, you’ll soon have this red substance. Regular water changes dissolve nutrients which feed cyano
- Using water with nitrates or phosphates is a base for cyano. . . . . Tap water is an example of po4 and no3 introduction.
- Inadequate water flow is often a chief cause of cyano blooms as slow moving water combined with excessive dissolved nutrients creates red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Thank you! I figured with the nutrients almost entirely bottomed out, cyano was out of the picture.

I manually removed a lot of the bubbly red algae blanket during the water change yesterday. And dosed more Microbacter7.

Flow wise, I’m running about 450gph return pump, and over 2000gph of flow in the power heads. I haven’t seen any pockets of detritus leftover after feedings.

I’m a bit confused on the diagnosis because everything points the opposite way